New member with a new bunny
Moderator: Fatmobile
Follow wolf_walker on that procedure as there's the alignment mark on the IP pully and on the bracket to make sure you get the locking pin in the correct hole (there are two holes 180 degrees apart). That's base timing position for the IP, then the final timing is done by the dial gauge, and/or by your fine tuning as you like how it runs. If you've got a Bentley manual, follow it. If not, get one in short order if you're going to continue to service the car yourself.
The cam gear may be slotted for a key, but no key is installed in it, and shouldn't be. Defeats the purpose of loosening the cam gear and adjusting tension if it's locked in one position.
The cam gear may be slotted for a key, but no key is installed in it, and shouldn't be. Defeats the purpose of loosening the cam gear and adjusting tension if it's locked in one position.
Everybody else lists their cars here - but not me.
I have too many to count
I have too many to count
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- Cetane Booster
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 11:47 pm
- Location: North Carolina
- Contact:
Plentiful as 1.6's are I wouldn't touch a 1.5 with a ten foot pole.
Wonder why you have piston contact? I'd be inclined to find TDC for sure, it IS possible for someone to put the damn clutch setup in wrong and the mark to be off, or to read it wrong. It's usually a divot of sorts.
The Jetta I bought was like this, the PO had marked an accurate mark with paint, I verified the TDC point when I had the motor out, makes for piece of mind. In theory you can pull an injector or glow plug and figure it out, the prechamber is sort of in the way though. Might be able to torn CCW till it hits, then CW till it hits, and split the diff and see what marks you see.
Or pull the head. You'll have to eventually I wager with a 1.5.
Wonder why you have piston contact? I'd be inclined to find TDC for sure, it IS possible for someone to put the damn clutch setup in wrong and the mark to be off, or to read it wrong. It's usually a divot of sorts.
The Jetta I bought was like this, the PO had marked an accurate mark with paint, I verified the TDC point when I had the motor out, makes for piece of mind. In theory you can pull an injector or glow plug and figure it out, the prechamber is sort of in the way though. Might be able to torn CCW till it hits, then CW till it hits, and split the diff and see what marks you see.
Or pull the head. You'll have to eventually I wager with a 1.5.
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- Turbo Charger
- Posts: 274
- Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:45 pm
- Location: Alaska
I thin wire will fit past the glowplug and hit the top of the piston for finding TDC.
If you get it running you should put a new T-belt on there too.
Mine has a 0 on the flywheel at TDC.Wonder why you have piston contact? I'd be inclined to find TDC for sure, it IS possible for someone to put the damn clutch setup in wrong and the mark to be off, or to read it wrong. It's usually a divot of sorts.
If you get it running you should put a new T-belt on there too.
On the block just below the headgasket at cyl 3, it will be covered on grease .Where do I find the engine code on this thing?
@ the OP-
I sold this car to the guy you bought it from (Doug in Tacoma right?). Funny that it made its way back to Portland! The rabbit in my sig is the very same one, I haven't updated this thing since I sold it. The part about the new rings and bearings is what the guy I bought it from told me, the IP is most likely a remanufactured one. If you want more information just PM me.
BTW I'm not trying to rag on your new car, just to give information!
I sold this car to the guy you bought it from (Doug in Tacoma right?). Funny that it made its way back to Portland! The rabbit in my sig is the very same one, I haven't updated this thing since I sold it. The part about the new rings and bearings is what the guy I bought it from told me, the IP is most likely a remanufactured one. If you want more information just PM me.
BTW I'm not trying to rag on your new car, just to give information!
1979 Diesel Rabbit
1981 Vanagon Camper
1981 Vanagon Camper
Haaaaa very interesting. I love this car! I am still having trouble locating the engine code but maybe you know, is this an original 1.5? Pulled the head today. Pistons definitely hitting valves but everything loosk OK. spun the engine around a couple times manually and found that I had timed to a mark that was NOT TDC. Putting it back together correctly this evening. Wish me luck.
I'm pretty sure I saw the 1.5D designation on the block, but it's got so many old style accessories on it that it's 99% sure it's the original. The head on it is a 1.6 though, and it should have 12mm bolts. I think your problem may be dirty tank/lines. The guy who sold it to me ran biodiesel on the original rubber lines and they eventually dissolved. The resulting gunk clogged up the last IP and was all over the bottom of the tank when I checked it. Even if the guy who sold it to you cleaned out the tank there might be crap in the lines.
Remember that the 1.5 needs to be timed differently than the 1.6!
Remember that the 1.5 needs to be timed differently than the 1.6!
1979 Diesel Rabbit
1981 Vanagon Camper
1981 Vanagon Camper
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- Cetane Booster
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 11:47 pm
- Location: North Carolina
- Contact:
The spec is a little different but I don't remember the exact numbers. I still do the timing by ear method whether it's my 1.5 or 1.6. I think the 1.5 is somewhere around 1mm vs .9 for the 1.6 (not exact numbers, just ballpark).
I'm sure someone else will chime in with more precise numbers.
I'm sure someone else will chime in with more precise numbers.
Bob
'06 Jetta TDI
'82 Rabbit 1.6NA
Honda, 99 GMC Suburban, '41 Chevy Coupe
'06 Jetta TDI
'82 Rabbit 1.6NA
Honda, 99 GMC Suburban, '41 Chevy Coupe
New fiasco. Looks like I've got a real bitsa on my hands. Before pulling the head I noted that the bolt in the head next to the oil return was a 12 point and had 3 large washer under it - not a good sign i thought.
It looks to me like I have an aftermarket 1.6 12mm head with 1 12mm bolt (115mm long) and 9 11mm bolts (98mm long). The oddest part is that someone really went to the trouble of re-threading that center hole for the 12mm bolt, and left the rest alone?
I am at a loss of how to proceed. I have read through this thread (viewtopic.php?p=64174&sid=23fe8345e1a80 ... ac057d4e54) and have an understanding of difference between the different heads.
My biggest worry is: I presume it would be a bad (if not fatal) move to re-attach this 1.6 12mm head using the 11mm (98mm long) bolts as they may not engage enough....
Also trying to decide which head gasket to use as the block has the small oil return and the head has the large one...
I have located a complete 85' 1.6 NA with a 5-speed box local to me that is sounding better and better.....
It looks to me like I have an aftermarket 1.6 12mm head with 1 12mm bolt (115mm long) and 9 11mm bolts (98mm long). The oddest part is that someone really went to the trouble of re-threading that center hole for the 12mm bolt, and left the rest alone?
I am at a loss of how to proceed. I have read through this thread (viewtopic.php?p=64174&sid=23fe8345e1a80 ... ac057d4e54) and have an understanding of difference between the different heads.
My biggest worry is: I presume it would be a bad (if not fatal) move to re-attach this 1.6 12mm head using the 11mm (98mm long) bolts as they may not engage enough....
Also trying to decide which head gasket to use as the block has the small oil return and the head has the large one...
I have located a complete 85' 1.6 NA with a 5-speed box local to me that is sounding better and better.....
I'm going to have to put the timing on the back burner as the head is proving to be a much larger issue. The 11mm bolt extends about 1 centimeter below the block and the 12mm almost 3cm. If 3cm is correct then 1cm sounds like begging to blow a headgasket and/or everythig else.
The head is an AMC for what its worth.
The head is an AMC for what its worth.
You're smart to notice the head bolt to block match area. If this is a 1.5L, you need head studs. Search this forum for results of those that have skipped the studs on their rebuilds and read the results.
Does the AMC head look physically different than a VW head? I'm curious about that one.
Does the AMC head look physically different than a VW head? I'm curious about that one.
Everybody else lists their cars here - but not me.
I have too many to count
I have too many to count