New member with a new bunny

raab · Post by **raab** » Fri Dec 04, 2009 8:02 pm

ok so the cam gear is supposed 'freewheel' but it has a woodruff key?

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Fri Dec 04, 2009 8:06 pm

Follow wolf_walker on that procedure as there's the alignment mark on the IP pully and on the bracket to make sure you get the locking pin in the correct hole (there are two holes 180 degrees apart). That's base timing position for the IP, then the final timing is done by the dial gauge, and/or by your fine tuning as you like how it runs. If you've got a Bentley manual, follow it. If not, get one in short order if you're going to continue to service the car yourself.

The cam gear may be slotted for a key, but no key is installed in it, and shouldn't be. Defeats the purpose of loosening the cam gear and adjusting tension if it's locked in one position.

raab · Post by **raab** » Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:12 pm

OK. Followed protocol. I feel very confident about the work. Go to turn the crank over, it goes about 354 degrees and sticks. Damn.

Where do I find the engine code on this thing?

Am I correct in thinking a burnt 1.5 is worth about a nickle?

wolf_walker · Post by **wolf_walker** » Fri Dec 04, 2009 11:30 pm

Plentiful as 1.6's are I wouldn't touch a 1.5 with a ten foot pole.

Wonder why you have piston contact? I'd be inclined to find TDC for sure, it IS possible for someone to put the damn clutch setup in wrong and the mark to be off, or to read it wrong. It's usually a divot of sorts.

The Jetta I bought was like this, the PO had marked an accurate mark with paint, I verified the TDC point when I had the motor out, makes for piece of mind. In theory you can pull an injector or glow plug and figure it out, the prechamber is sort of in the way though. Might be able to torn CCW till it hits, then CW till it hits, and split the diff and see what marks you see.

Or pull the head. You'll have to eventually I wager with a 1.5.

rabbit_man · Post by **rabbit_man** » Fri Dec 04, 2009 11:51 pm

I thin wire will fit past the glowplug and hit the top of the piston for finding TDC.

Wonder why you have piston contact? I'd be inclined to find TDC for sure, it IS possible for someone to put the damn clutch setup in wrong and the mark to be off, or to read it wrong. It's usually a divot of sorts.

Mine has a 0 on the flywheel at TDC.

If you get it running you should put a new T-belt on there too.

Where do I find the engine code on this thing?

On the block just below the headgasket at cyl 3, it will be covered on grease

.

zayets · Post by **zayets** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:25 am

@ the OP-

I sold this car to the guy you bought it from (Doug in Tacoma right?). Funny that it made its way back to Portland! The rabbit in my sig is the very same one, I haven't updated this thing since I sold it. The part about the new rings and bearings is what the guy I bought it from told me, the IP is most likely a remanufactured one. If you want more information just PM me.
BTW I'm not trying to rag on your new car, just to give information!

raab · Post by **raab** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 6:57 pm

Haaaaa very interesting. I love this car! I am still having trouble locating the engine code but maybe you know, is this an original 1.5? Pulled the head today. Pistons definitely hitting valves but everything loosk OK. spun the engine around a couple times manually and found that I had timed to a mark that was NOT TDC. Putting it back together correctly this evening. Wish me luck.

zayets · Post by **zayets** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 11:19 pm

I'm pretty sure I saw the 1.5D designation on the block, but it's got so many old style accessories on it that it's 99% sure it's the original. The head on it is a 1.6 though, and it should have 12mm bolts. I think your problem may be dirty tank/lines. The guy who sold it to me ran biodiesel on the original rubber lines and they eventually dissolved. The resulting gunk clogged up the last IP and was all over the bottom of the tank when I checked it. Even if the guy who sold it to you cleaned out the tank there might be crap in the lines.
Remember that the 1.5 needs to be timed differently than the 1.6!

wolf_walker · Post by **wolf_walker** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 12:34 am

raab wrote:spun the engine around a couple times manually and found that I had timed to a mark that was NOT TDC.

Happens to more people than admit it.

You sound like you are on the right track now.

raab · Post by **raab** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 3:52 pm

can someone shed some light on timing 1.5 differently than 1.6?

bscutt · Post by **bscutt** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 4:01 pm

The spec is a little different but I don't remember the exact numbers. I still do the timing by ear method whether it's my 1.5 or 1.6. I think the 1.5 is somewhere around 1mm vs .9 for the 1.6 (not exact numbers, just ballpark).

I'm sure someone else will chime in with more precise numbers.

raab · Post by **raab** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 7:26 pm

New fiasco. Looks like I've got a real bitsa on my hands. Before pulling the head I noted that the bolt in the head next to the oil return was a 12 point and had 3 large washer under it - not a good sign i thought.

It looks to me like I have an aftermarket 1.6 12mm head with 1 12mm bolt (115mm long) and 9 11mm bolts (98mm long). The oddest part is that someone really went to the trouble of re-threading that center hole for the 12mm bolt, and left the rest alone?

I am at a loss of how to proceed. I have read through this thread (viewtopic.php?p=64174&sid=23fe8345e1a80 ... ac057d4e54) and have an understanding of difference between the different heads.

My biggest worry is: I presume it would be a bad (if not fatal) move to re-attach this 1.6 12mm head using the 11mm (98mm long) bolts as they may not engage enough....

Also trying to decide which head gasket to use as the block has the small oil return and the head has the large one...

I have located a complete 85' 1.6 NA with a 5-speed box local to me that is sounding better and better.....

tawney · Post by **tawney** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 7:29 pm

Timing: Bentley says 1977-1980, the pumps with yellow dot: 1.15mm, pumps without yellow dot: .86mm

I've got some old 1.5 pumps, but I've never seen the yellow dot, so I don't know where to look for it, or if it flakes off over time, or what.

raab · Post by **raab** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 7:57 pm

I'm going to have to put the timing on the back burner as the head is proving to be a much larger issue. The 11mm bolt extends about 1 centimeter below the block and the 12mm almost 3cm. If 3cm is correct then 1cm sounds like begging to blow a headgasket and/or everythig else.

The head is an AMC for what its worth.

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 9:19 pm

You're smart to notice the head bolt to block match area. If this is a 1.5L, you need head studs. Search this forum for results of those that have skipped the studs on their rebuilds and read the results.

Does the AMC head look physically different than a VW head? I'm curious about that one.