Project: 1978 VW Rabbit

[Fatmobile]

Don't buy a turbo from that ebay seller.

First concern with a quantum TD is the exhaust manifold won't work with a Rabbit.
If you want to go with the stock setup you'll need one from a MK1 or MK2 turbo diesel.
You could probably trade yours with someone doing a samari or maybe vanagon turbo diesel swap.
they might want to trade for your quantum oil filter mount as well if the engine is tilted,.. you won't want the quantum filter mount.

I of course suggest the VNT-15 turbo from a 2000-2004 TDI.
The exhaust manifold is built-in,
It rides low so you can use a better intake,.. the TD intake favors the center cylinders.
Boost comes on much earlier and is a nice steady increase in power.

Here's a VNT used in later models:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4821944
only $100 plus shipping including the exhaust manifold if he still has it.
So they are cheap and better.
Buy the quantum.
Sell your stock turbo stuff and go VNT.
I did a writeup on my first VNT conversion,
the one I did this summer.
It's in the performance fora.
If you go VNT you'll want an oil filter mount from a MK2 gasser.
The oil cooler sandwich plates don't work with the earlier oil filter mounts,..
sealing surface is too narrow.

[VanBoy]

VNT... wow.

That is an inexpensive turbo he's selling! That would work.... but... it looks electronic controlled..... but what would have to be changed on that to make it work for my application? Put a mechanical boost controller to replace the electric one and good to go?

Took a quick glance at your VNT thread.... the one about putting the VNT on a 1.5 rabbit.

But now I'm a little confused..... it's late, so I'm gonna call it a night and see if I can get myself "unconfused"......

[VanBoy]

OKay.....

So, if I bought that variable geometry turbo (vnt) that you linked, would I need to make that linkage you did in your vnt mounting on the 1.5? I ran across a vnt post in searching online where it was mounted on a Mercedes 300. Or would I just have to change out the electronic controller to one that is boost activated???



One question- what is a 1.6L TD Quantum engine worth? One that is in running condition, all accessories and such... actually it has a tranny on it too. Seller is selling it whole...

I've looked on Craigslist... one listed a complete 1.6L that used oil for $350. Another had one that was in pieces (but the head was done) for $500. Diesel engine trader has very few engines, and most are over $3000. Another posted wanted a 1.6TD short block for $350.... unfortunately, most are 3+ hours away.

[Fatmobile]

Yep, turn the computer controlled vacuum can into a boost can.
Sell the TD intake and get a cheap one from an A2 gasser.

$500 if it's actually runs

[VanBoy]

Fatmobile,

Thanks for all the tips..... You know quite a bit.

I'm gonna run something by you.... I'm gonna take a step back- take a relook at this project. (Gotta warn ya, this is gonna sound like a cheap azz farmer method! Oh wait... I am a farmer! )


Those "cracks" on the block by the freeze plug. Looking at the cracks, as is, it looks like the head gasket is where the leak came from, ABOVE the location.

I'm thinking of doing something silly. But I decided to run it through here. I've been told by a bunch of different people locally, that there is some block sealer (one name they call is is Glass Sealer or Water Glass). It's suppose to "instantly" seal once exposed to air. Not sure what the down side is to it....

My reasoning, this engine ran (claims seller), but it was over heated. As of now, dumping that much money into getting a Quantum engine, then the parts to make it fit.... quite a bit there. If I could get a used head (I think I found one, but not sure if it's for a 1.5L) for "cheap", then I could put a gasket and such. If the block doesn't leak, cool. If she starts to seep, I could try the sealer. So as long as the head and gasket doesn't give out, I could, in theory, get this engine running....

In theory, if it failed, I would be out the price of the head (under $200), cost of the gaskets, sealer and other.... under $350 total I'm guessing.

I just plan to use it locally for now. Eventually, I would like to get a turbo engine....

[Fatmobile]

That's a place to start too.
Get it running then wait for a good deal on a TD engine.

[VanBoy]

Head is on it's way- ran me $200 shipped.
Head looks like it has injectors and it was off a running engine. Unfortunately, the did NOT cover the hole when the lines were removed. Maybe to be safe, I'll reuse the injectors off the head that was with the car... unless I want to risk trying to clean the set in this 'new' used head and use them.... If I swap, I have to get new heat shields. I have new glowplugs (came with car), so I'll replace those for sure... why not. Or I will bench test the ones in the head and see if they warm up....no..... it's off, better to replace now right..... heard how hard it is to get to them w/ the head installed.

Thinking of getting RACEWARE head studs- quoted $205 shipped
From what I hear, the original head bolts are a big ????? in performance. If things go bad and it blows up (leaks) and the studs are still okay, I could resell it for something..... Have to verify they are 11mm first.

... TO BE CONTINUED ...

[VanBoy]

It's been verified! Head bolts are still stock 11mm- a 11mm nut fits fine, 12mm is WAY loose.

The used head also arrived today. Man, the section between the valves looks great! One had no cracks at all. Another had a little bit, not much, much smaller then what was on the head that came w/ the car.


I was going to get that VNT turbo you linked Fatmobile.... but I was 10min too late Reason I wanted it, I have a lead on a 1.6NA engine, but needs to be rebuilt..... Mechanic at work drives a VW pickup.... he has one or two laying around!

(I saw those wast gate actuators on Ebay and I would think that it would replace the vacuum/electric one. Unfortunately, I have NO idea how to adjust it.... more stuff to learn.)

edit-
Is this VNT just like the one you linked in?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4784630

[Fatmobile]

Yeah, that's like the one I linked to,
exept it looks more worn out and $225 more.
I knew it wouldn't take long for the one I linked, to sell.
Too expensive, I'd be afraid it might need a rebuild added to the price to get a good one.
I got a similar center section for free and bought the rest stuck to a bad center section for $65 shipped.

Mine have 3 bstuds that hold the exhaust on,..
I have to watch what angle the exhaust sits (when fabricating) or it will block a stud and I won't be able to put the nut on.
This one is set up so there are no turbo outpipe studs to get in the way.

[VanBoy]

Okay, I called a local outfit to pop test the injectors (ones that cam w/ car and the ones with the new head). It runs $10 each. Any way, I asked about the "crush washer"/"head shield" and was told that VW's have a heavy washer in the head!? And it didn't need to be replaced.... Comments on their words???

[surfcam]

That's incorrect. The washer are fairly cheap and are not reusable. They have a small cone shape to them. After use they go fat and loose a lot of there sealing ability. Oh ya the limey will tell you how to bend them back but I can be bothered.

[coke]

I won't tell you not to buy from him, but dont. There have been some issues with fitting of turbo chargers and stuff from him in the past. A quantum engine will work but you'll need to get the appropriate manifolds, etc to fit it in your rabbit.

[VanBoy]

Well, it's been a while since I posted anything.... not much to post.

Just removed the injectors and the heat shields just now from the used head. Searched here and found out it was 1 1/16"- at least I had a box end that big (head is off). I had an impact socket that size, but it went away....but looks like I would need a thin wall type socket any how.

Injectors "looked" okay. The one closest to the sprocket had some rust on it (prob from sitting) on the tip and the heat shield-good thing I decided to take it in and looked at- don't want small fakes flying around. Used compressed air to remove the heat shields and they "flew" right out. One next to it, injector came out w/ oil on it's tip! Engine that the head came out of must have been using oil. Those heat shields look thick! I guess if it's cheap, then I'll just replace it.... why quibble over a little part (like when spark plugs use to be .99 for Autolites!)

I'll pick up a socket while in town dropping off the head today. Have to go and get a hydraulic hose made for the tractor anyhow.

OH, took the cam off, since they said to pull it. I think I might need a new cam. How "smooth" should the bearing surfaces be? Like glass..... It is not passing the "finger nail" test in my un-experienced opinion.

[VanBoy]

The used head I got has a warp, so it has to be surfaced. Interesting, salvage yard stated it was 'straight'.... well, if you use a crooked straight edge that's in your favor.

Found a place that has "cheap" rebuilt injectors. For the cost of $40 to test the ones I have, I could get a rebuilt one.....

Any how, I guess time to gather the parts together to put her back together.... Head studs, gaskets, cam(?).

Dumb question.... if I use the cam that came w/ the car, since the cam off the used head I bought is not smooth, should I mic it??? I have yet to remove it off the original head yet.... so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it's better then the other one.

What size are the treads for the injector holes and the glow plugs? I read someone suggested chasing the threads to make sure all is okay prior to installing the injectors and GP's.

[Fatmobile]

If you surface it, you will probably find that the cam rocks in the journals.
The head will still be high in the center and the cam will rock like a teeter totter.
A local place bends the heads back straight and line bores it,
before a rebuild begins.
How much is it warped?