"rebuilt " injection pump and still won't start

MAF · Post by **MAF** » Thu May 13, 2010 9:03 am

Group,

timing is good. new injector tips, a known good supply of fuel and the damn thing won't start.

motor ran ok last year when I parked it then I had to F*** with it by adding the A/C back in. Thats when I messed with the injection pump.

How can I test the pump ????

Engine Compression ???? The motor "Starts with a little ether down the manifold.

Preparing to toss it in.....

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Thu May 13, 2010 9:18 am

I'd recommend to not use either on these diesels. You can break rings if you're not careful.

When you crack loose an injector line, does fuel come out when you crank it with your foot to the floor? How much have you troubleshooted the fuel system to make sure you have fuel at the IP? Is the IP full of fuel? Have you tried rigging up a jar and running the car from a jar of fuel eliminating most of the fueling system to make sure the IP isn't internally stuck?

MAF · Post by **MAF** » Thu May 13, 2010 9:34 am

Yes, to purge the air out I have cracked the lines and turn the engine until fuel comes out.

And I also suspended a fuel supply on a stand next to the vehicle - looks like and I V bag at a hospital.

I think what I am going to try next is test the injectors with the pump one at a time by removing an injector line and removing an injector.

I should get something by cranking the engine !

All I know is before the pump got "rebuilt" and I replaced the injector cones I could sort of start the motor.

Op-Ivy · Post by **Op-Ivy** » Thu May 13, 2010 9:50 am

If you are getting fuel to come out of the pump that is a good start.

We need more information though. Was the engine running with that same pump before it was rebuilt? Is it a different pump? Did it have trouble starting before you put it away?

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Thu May 13, 2010 10:31 am

So, you had the pump rebuilt because the motor was hard to start. Was the pump the issue, or were non operational glow plugs or low compression the issue? Since you have fuel coming out of the injector lines, the fuel solenoid is working. The IP vanes may be stuck, or something else going on. If your car has a block heater, plug it in. If it starts easily in two hours of heating the block, you have a glow plug issue. Are you sure you got the pump on correct, and not 180 degrees out? Who rebuilt the pump - Bosch service department or someone else?

MAF · Post by **MAF** » Thu May 13, 2010 11:50 am

I've heard about the pumps going on 180 out . But how ?

The pump shaft has is keyed so the gear can only go on one way.

With the mark on the gear aligned with the mark on the pump it is in the correct position.

Crank at #1 TDC and #1 valves closed with lobes up.

If there is something I am missing please advise.

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Thu May 13, 2010 11:54 am

From what you describe, you have the pump on correctly. But, who rebuilt the pump? The internals of the pump can be 180 degrees out.

TonyB · Post by **TonyB** » Thu May 13, 2010 9:20 pm

One other thing that will prevent it from starting is the ignition switch. I had a bad switch that would energize the fuel solenoid on the IP in the "run" position but not in the "start" position. If I could get it started, it would run fine. Check the voltage to the fuel solenoid when cranking.

TonyB
Jacksonville, FL
81 Dasher 1.6na

Post by **Fatmobile** » Thu May 13, 2010 11:55 pm

It started on ether,..
but did it keep running?
Who did the "rebuild"?
When hand cranking,..Does fuel come out of injector line #1,.. when it's supposed to?

MAF · Post by **MAF** » Mon May 17, 2010 12:08 pm

I bought a compression tester at Harbor Freight. Not bad for $25.

Cyl #1 400 lb
Cyl #2 400 lb
Cyl #3 450 lb
Cyl #4 400 lb

I think it is the pump... I'm going to see if the pump put out anything on Cyl #1 when it is supposed to by cranking it over manually.

I think a clear piece of tubing should do the trick

Vincent Waldon · Post by **Vincent Waldon** » Mon May 17, 2010 12:11 pm

82vdub wrote: But, who rebuilt the pump?

Fatmobile wrote: Who did the "rebuild"?

We keep asking you this question because there's one specific rebuild vendor with a horrific track record of pumps that won't work right out of the box, and we'll all save some time if we know this is the case right off the bat!

MAF · Post by **MAF** » Mon May 17, 2010 9:56 pm

OK Already !
The pump was rebuilt by a local guy in Drew Park in Tampa, FL who supposedly knows what he is doing.

I think you guys are talking about Proethe ?? Or someone like that name ?

Post by **Fatmobile** » Mon May 17, 2010 11:42 pm

I was more wondering how much of a rebuild it was.
Many people reseal a pump and call it a rebuild.
Does he have a test bench?
Bosch service center guy?

Wondering if it might be 180 out, on the inside.

Clear fuel lines going to and from the "IV bag"?

How easily does it turn over by hand?

MAF · Post by **MAF** » Tue May 18, 2010 6:41 am

Well he did replace the front bushing that was worn.
But honestly I do not believe he has any any equipment to test.
Nope, not a Bosch tech, pretty much shadetree with a good track record.
Can a pump really be assembled 180 out ?
Just regular fuel lines from the fuel IV bag ( actually a big syringe that I refill as it goes down.)
The pump turns over pretty easy.

82vdub · Post by **82vdub** » Tue May 18, 2010 10:00 am

To sum up, you're certain that the timing is spot on, your getting fuel to the IP and it's delivering fuel to the injectors, but it still won't start? You've got good compression, so that should be good. Did you plug the block heater in and let the block warm up for a couple hours before trying to start it? Some of these motors won't start without working glow plugs, no matter if you're in Florida or not in the summer. So, unless you know for a fact that the glow plugs are actually glowing, test these too.

If all else fails, maybe you can have the guy come out to see if he can figure things out. Maybe a call to him to ask if he's ever had an issue with assembling the pump internally 180 degrees out. It's been done before, but if you know this, you can install the IP on the motor 180 degrees out of phase with the cam, so now it'll be installed properly.