Old guy Old Rabbit---both Happy.

[hjalbert]

I use my hands. I use a pry bar with a block of wood behind it against the head/block if its too tight to move by hand, when i get it where it sounds good I mark it with a piece of chalk or sharpie, then go turn engine off, loosen injector lines at IP and tighten the ip down where I want it. If I know I am going to moving it alot from where I start I loosen the injector lines first, then move the ip in the direction i want it to end up before I run engine, to put less stress on lines.

[82vdub]

As hjalbert said. You only loosen the bolts holding the IP on, you don't remove them. Once you've rotated the IP, you need to unscrew both ends of the hard injector lines and the clips holding them on and retighten. This will remove any twist you may have exerted on the lines by rotating the pump. You will find that it's pretty dang hard to rotate the pump while the engine is running. Or at least that's what I found out, but I didn't loosen my bolts much at all. Just enough to get it to rotate.

[Fatmobile]

Seems like I used a big ol' pair of channel locks last time.
Like a big lever on top, one-handed it.
That left the other hand free to snug down that front, easy bolt when I hit the sweet spot.

I might remember to borrow my neighbors welding vice grips next time and see how well they grab the pump.

I once tried to turn it using vice grips on the max RPM stop,
actually worked several times,..
but the last time I tried it; it broke off,
right in front of the guy, ha.
Don't do that!

I suggest doing it with the cold start pulled out,
(I think Idhoho was the first to suggest that, Hmm haven't heard from him in awhile, I wonder how the LED caddy license plate lights I built him are working.
Hey Hagar, heard from Idhoho, AKA chuckles lately?)
that way when you set it on the edge of rattly, it should quiet down a little when you push the cold start lever in.

[hagar]

SAGA : Hey Hagar, heard from Idhoho, AKA chuckles lately?) --- Yes . joat and all : like Fatmobile said , finding the "SWEET" spot is the secret of "Hilbilly-TUNING".

Gary Bangs of Florida developed the turning I P with engine running , and it works.. .

joat and pencil there it is , what you need.

hagar

[vanbcguy]

could someone please explain to me how to move the IP, to time the 1.6 while the engine is running.... is there a tool to hold the pump once the bolts are loose ( and to hold the timing position after the engine is shut down? )

Generally I barely tighten the frontmost bolt, and leave a ratchet with an extension on it while adjusting. I can tighten/loosen that one up while the engine is running.

One thing to note though, when I have a dial gauge in my pump I see about a 0.10mm change when tightening some of the bolts on the front side of the pump. Pretty hard to time by ear without a dial gauge when the settings change once you finally button everything up!!

[joat]

thanks to all for the responses ... I'll try it this weekend if the weather permits

[hagar]

SAGA : for the benefit of all the newbies , I shall explain one more time why the " SWEET " spot can not be found using a Dial Indicator. on OLD Rabbits.. Simple answer Wear . .Using the dial we have to go by BOSCH or the Bentley , right ? ---right.
Those numbers are based on a brand new Rabbit with # 2 German Diesel. (we can not get).
Here are some of the reasons. According to BOSCH a very small variation in Ignition point , makes a LOT of difference.
The day I found out how small that variation was ,It blew my socks off . They mentioned it in angle of rotation..Yes you guessed it It was the proverbial "C" hair..

Example of wear , the drive pin in Cam plate is a round very small pin...it wears flat on one side..

on and on with the variations. SO ? the only way I know to get uptimum performance ? Yes "Hillbilly-TUNING".

That means by Feel and Sound an vibration and temperature EGT stuff.. Type of fuel gives different results , a dial reading can handle that ? NEVER NEVER NEVER is that loud enoughf ? NO ?.

Then the compression goes down 10 PSIG a dial reading can handle that ? NRVER NEVER NEVER.. SO you newbies please study a bit about Cetane ,Ignition delay and Injection delay. If you ever get to the "Eureka" day , do not forget to thank the Forum.

hagar.

PS : A lot of us oldies use 1.5 L I P's on 1.6 L engines. Where can a dieal reading by BOSCH or Bentley be found ? . SO ? we "TUNE".
works like a charm , read my lips.

[hagar]

SAGA : I am trying to help Newbies only. . the pains make it hard to write at all..

hagar.

[vwtyp133]

Hagar, thanks for all your tips... whether to newbies or us crusty ol' guys. Our thoughts and best wishes are with you, buddy. Hang in there.

J.R.
SoCal

[hagar]

SAGA : In this forum we are DIY types EH ? mechanical not Medical , But wait. , In my distant past I remembered that some PAINS were electrical signals BINGO I buy a TENS machine..

we shall see .

hagar.

[hjalbert]

wow. I am very grateful for Hagars presence on this forum. He has inspired more critical thinking about the way these little cars run then I can begin to imagine. I am kind of an all or nothing guy. So here we go. This is regarding my 80 2 door dasher, with 105k miles on it, which I believe has the yellow dot pump. I rebuilt/resealed my pump due to a leak from the timing cover. I installed it on the engine and timed it by ear. I was only getting around 30 mpg,when before I was getting around 45. First I did a flow test. I was only getting around 350 ml in 90 seconds. So I pushed the pressure regulator in . Then I was getting 675 ml in 90 seconds. I test drove it and the timing was way too advanced. The volume of fuel would increase slightly with raised rpm. I drilled and tapped a port in my IP cover (Pictures shown at bottom), I installed a pressure gauge in my center console using 3 18 inch grease gun hoses. While I had the IP cover off I did the governor mod. I also rebuilt my injectors. Got a sweet deal through (competitor's name removed by moderator), bosch 193s made in brazil, they had them clearanced for $4.30 each, but only had six in stock. I bought all six. I installed a new fuel filter and adjusted the valves. I set breaking pressures to 140 psi. I timed it with the dial indicator to 1.15 mm. Before I adjusted the timing it was .635 mm. Now note, it was extremely advanced after I increased the pressure with this timing setting. When I installed the pressure gauge it was showing 60 psi at 1000 rpm. I set the pressure regulator so that it was 47 psi at 1000 engine rpms. With the timing set to 1.15 mm and the pressure set to 47 psi, it is too advanced. I do not have a tach installed. My rpms are calculated based on my gear ratios, and speed using a gps. I set my smoke screw by ear, turning it in until the acceleator responce was what I wanted, and there was not much smoke, and then I turned on a/c and turned it in a little more. I am not trying to break a record for fuel economy. I use my a/c alot, and often times have about 200 pounds of tools in the back. I plan on installing a trailer hitch and towing a motorcycle trailer (the kind you tow behind a bike) with more tools in it. I also plan on converting this to run on vegetable oil. All this being said, I want to know why if bosch says the pressure should be 47 psi at 1000 engine rpms, with the spec timing, why would it run so advanced? Why do you (Hagar) set your timing to the most retarded point? obviously thats where I am headed, because I would much rather have my fuel injection timed correctly at every rpm other then idle. The next mod on my list is to install an EGT gauge. I have already "mastered" using an amp meter to monitor fuel economy in my isuzu pup, and plan on utilizing this means of measuring waste heat in the dasher also. Any advice as to how to proceed from here would be appreciated.

[hagar]

SAGA : hjalbert thank you for the kind words. . Why TUNING to retarded ? (we are talking about Bondo only)

to reduce the sound of marbles on a dinner plate.. It sounds like a gasser on the highway.. Notice I said TUNING not timing.
ergo it may be advanced timing . EH ?.

If you stay with it , I predict that you will be a Master "Hillbilly-TUNER" one of these days (very soon).

A manifold pressure gauge is very useful in TUNING. mine settles at 5 PSIG max at highway speeds..

On Rabbits the solenoid and key-switch is not fused SO ? be careful ,

hagar.

[Op-Ivy]

Very nice fitting on your pump Hjalbert. Make sure the lines can handle the pressure of higher rpms from the pump. You would hate for it to blow off.

[hagar]

SAGA : OP-Ivy , nice to hear from you...

I read OK , but writing is a different matter

hagar.

[hagar]

SAGA : Frtday the 13th and stuck rings or broken rings coked up Pistons BUT WHY ?. well for newbies here is the answer again..The rings were moved closer to top of piston., in order to pass emission test ..

Top ring is exposed to combustion heat, hence coking.

hagar.