what tool to remove injectors?

[CoolAirVw]

Craftsman 12pt 1 1/16 deep socket. 1 1/16 = 27mm (brand isn't important but that's what I have) Works every time.


the 12pt allows enough clearance for the two fuel barbs.

Thats what I got.

[Quantum-man]

I have a 28mm snap-on socket; with a strip of baked bean tin liner
Snug as a pea in a pod

[doonboggle]

JUST the thread I've been thinking of trying to find ... and of all days to find it, the rabbit p/u is in the shop and not at home so that I can reconnoiter the discussion subject.

OK ... here's the 'dum-dum' question of the day ... from this 'old phart'.
Regarding ... " push and pull" ... means what???

From the perspective of standing in front of the p/u, if I put the socket STRAIGHT ON an injector (or spark plug), I've always been inclined to try and hold the ratchet or breaker bar angled in the same direction as the socket.

So am I correct that others actually 'push' ... or 'pull' ... against the angle of the socket ... thus cracking the threaded hole for the injector?

I've never done this before, but that's how I see it should be done ... follow the angle ... unless I missed something.

"Learning all the time!"


TIA

[Quantum-man]

JUST the thread I've been thinking of trying to find ... and of all days to find it, the rabbit p/u is in the shop and not at home so that I can reconnoiter the discussion subject.

OK ... here's the 'dum-dum' question of the day ... from this 'old phart'.
Regarding ... " push and pull" ... means what???

From the perspective of standing in front of the p/u, if I put the socket STRAIGHT ON an injector (or spark plug), I've always been inclined to try and hold the ratchet or breaker bar angled in the same direction as the socket.

So am I correct that others actually 'push' ... or 'pull' ... against the angle of the socket ... thus cracking the threaded hole for the injector?

I've never done this before, but that's how I see it should be done ... follow the angle ... unless I missed something.

"Learning all the time!"


TIA

It's all about unwanted leverage. Imagine a nice snug socket with a 12" extension bar on it, but no wratchet.
Grabbing the end, and pushing or pulling will give you pure leverage with no torque. All leverage is unwanted.
Aparently the thin part of the threaded boss will readily break out with this leverage pulling away from the engine, effectively towards the pump.
It will probably break with greater leverage when pushing towards the engine. I, myself, feel that it may be strongest when levering inline with the engine.
Of course we don't want any leverage if we can help it, but some creeps in when struggling with a well bonded injector, when using a wrench.
THe air wratchet produces minimal leverage and plenty of torque. It's only downside is that it can easily over do it, and undo even when binding for several turns, and can strip the threads.
A T bar can be successfu in that you can make like cutting a thread tap, and go to and fro very gradually. I believe that the flexi joint can cut out most of the unwanted leverage...
I hope this expains what I feel I know about the topic