Bosch VE pump - throttle lever seal replacement in vehicle?

[VWCaddy]

I just noticed a fairly bad leak out of the base of the throttle lever and it does seem loose (able to rock it up and down a little - makes leak worse). Anyway, was wondering if that seal could be replaced with the pump on the engine? If so, anyone have a writeup or any tips? I have a pump seal kit on the way.

Have seen these threads and they just brush on the topic, but no details:
http://vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6694
http://vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6573

Pump is a N/A version #068-130-107 model. Seems to only have a single return spring on the lever unlike the 107A pump I have as a spare.

[TonyB]

It should be fairly easy to replace the throttle shaft seal with the pump on the car. Remove all the hardware from the throttle shaft, carefully noting how it all goes together (pictures are good). Pay particular attention to the orientation of the lever on the shaft. You want to get that back in the same position. Remove the four screws holding the top cover of the pump. I prefer to gently press the shaft down as I lift the top, separating the shaft and governer spring assembly from the cover. The seal on the shaft can then be replaced. Then, as we say, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Be sure to use a new cover gasket also!

If this seal is leaking, you may be well served by removing the pump from the car and doing a complete reaseal. Perhaps others can share their experiences with partial reseals. With the pictures in the threads you referenced, it's pretty straightforward. Just replacing the leaking seal is MUCH easier, though. Your choice.

Tony B
81 Dasher 1.6na
81 Rabbit pickup 1.6na

[VWCaddy]

Thanks, I think I'll give it a shot once I get the seal kit. Ultimately, I want to have my spare pump rebuilt, but if I can do a quickie seal replacement on the pump that is there now, that will get it back on the road for now.

[surfcam]

I did one of my car's four year's ago using wire nooses. It will make it way easier to assemble. You can tie them off at the right orientation. A Fatmobile trick.

[Fatmobile]

Sometimes it's not just the o-ring.

The shaft guide can get worn and I once had a problem with sharp edges tearing up the new o-ring.

The new bushing is kinda spendy but is made of steel instead of brass so should last a very long time.

I have used one of these o-rings from a complete set several times,
leaving me with incomplete sets,..
so I ordered several of these o-rings seperately,
along with a couple other of the more common ones.

[surfcam]

That really brings up a sore point with me. When I took lid off my pump the shaft had major wear 50 thou or more. So against my better judgment I just replaced the 0-ring. I did this so I could assess if it was worth spending money on a car that I had just bought for 500. Too my surprise four year's later it's still holding.

[VWCaddy]

Sometimes it's not just the o-ring.

The shaft guide can get worn and I once had a problem with sharp edges tearing up the new o-ring.

The new bushing is kinda spendy but is made of steel instead of brass so should last a very long time.

I have used one of these o-rings from a complete set several times,
leaving me with incomplete sets,..
so I ordered several of these o-rings seperately,
along with a couple other of the more common ones.

Apparently those guides are very pump-specific, so you can't order one ahead of time. So I guess I'll wait until I get the seal kit and tear the top of the pump off. If the guide is shot, I need to measure:
- The lip of the bushing
- The length of your bushing
- The length of your throttle shaft.

And then order a guide to match those measurements.

[Fatmobile]

I gave him the part number off my pump,
and he told me what bushing I needed.