I need to flush my block/head to get the crappy oil/antifreeze mix out of it. I already decided what I'm going to use to accomplish this, but I need to know where to hook my hose connections to flush it.
My gut tells me the hose from the side of the head that goes into the heat exchanger, and the hose from the thermostat housing (Thermostat removed, of course) will accomplish this. Thoughts/input?
Block flushing
Moderator: Fatmobile
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hagar
- Hillbilly Tuner
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- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 10:11 am
- Location: Near Lund B.C. Kanada.
Flushing block .
coke and ALL. Thoughts ? .lots spent all morning on it , But I will wait for the rest of the gang to pipe up.
It is complicated .
hagar.
It is complicated .
hagar.
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Golf/Jetta
- Turbo Charger
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- Location: Ottawa Region
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Quantum-man
- Turbo Charger
- Posts: 2085
- Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2006 4:34 pm
- Location: Gloucester; Limey-Land
I'd just drain by the water pump. Remove thermostat, relace cover, refill with water , add soap, and idle for a while, then drain and repeat...
"I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD
)
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD
)-
coke
Well, I had planned on just doing it while the engine is not running and using a drill pump. Obviously, the engine wont get nearly as hot, but I have access to water the temperature of normal operating. (Oil fired boiler) Lot of work to do it while everything is together so I just wana do it while I got the front clip off the car and the engine is in non running shape to try and get all the sludge out that I can.
Obviously when its running it will receive another flush after the 2nd head bolt torque.
Obviously when its running it will receive another flush after the 2nd head bolt torque.
sounds good for the motor end ... then flush the in car heat exchanger ( both ways) till it runs clear... then do the Rad ... finally the overflow/ res bottle.
if you have access to your Hot water tank, hook up a garden hose to the drain. then open the valve and drain the tank a bit ( get rid of tank sludge) ... then use it to pressure flush the system with hot water.
if you have access to your Hot water tank, hook up a garden hose to the drain. then open the valve and drain the tank a bit ( get rid of tank sludge) ... then use it to pressure flush the system with hot water.
Yay, on the flushing with cleaner, then neutralizing, then soapy water (Tide seems to work well... maybe others do also?), then lots of clean water 'rinsing'.
But... just for the final round of clean water flush/rinses... I'd do the head, the radiator, heater core, heat exchanger & block each separately after doing them all connected, and obviously, take the plastic water reservoir off & scrub it clean. IMO there's too many 'pockets' the dirty stuff can get caught in otherwise, especially with the thermostat removed. BTDT... ugly. It would be nice to have a 60C/140F thermostat, just to throw in only when cleaning/flushing. Almost scary, how the head runs so much hotter than the block with the thermostat removed!
Did I get close to complicating it, Hagar?
But... just for the final round of clean water flush/rinses... I'd do the head, the radiator, heater core, heat exchanger & block each separately after doing them all connected, and obviously, take the plastic water reservoir off & scrub it clean. IMO there's too many 'pockets' the dirty stuff can get caught in otherwise, especially with the thermostat removed. BTDT... ugly. It would be nice to have a 60C/140F thermostat, just to throw in only when cleaning/flushing. Almost scary, how the head runs so much hotter than the block with the thermostat removed!
Did I get close to complicating it, Hagar?
J.R.
SoCal
SoCal
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coke
Do these cars open the stock thermostats up when driving in the winter, with a small load on the engine?
On my old 85 f250 I alternated dishwashing soap and calgon to clean things up after an oil/coolant exchange. That along with my inline coolant filter cleaned that system up nicely. After done I would empty what I could then flush with distilled water finally, to get ready for the coolant.
On my truck though it needs help in the cold when empty, I would have to put cardboard over the radiator to let it heat up and open the thermostat to circulate everything.
On my old 85 f250 I alternated dishwashing soap and calgon to clean things up after an oil/coolant exchange. That along with my inline coolant filter cleaned that system up nicely. After done I would empty what I could then flush with distilled water finally, to get ready for the coolant.
On my truck though it needs help in the cold when empty, I would have to put cardboard over the radiator to let it heat up and open the thermostat to circulate everything.
i really like to do the block flush thing with no thermostat... fill dump fill dump all real easy when the TStat is gone.
whatever potion you are using to get rid of the oil, automatic dishwasher detergent, etc. WILL foam and need to be dumped many times and the 2 bolt TStat housing is a great place to dump fast.
i just bought 2 pounds of citric acid at the food coop to have on hand for heater core and rad treatment... does remove scale without causing damage and is the ingredient in the expensive Mercedes treatment.
-dan
whatever potion you are using to get rid of the oil, automatic dishwasher detergent, etc. WILL foam and need to be dumped many times and the 2 bolt TStat housing is a great place to dump fast.
i just bought 2 pounds of citric acid at the food coop to have on hand for heater core and rad treatment... does remove scale without causing damage and is the ingredient in the expensive Mercedes treatment.
-dan
'91 Jetta NA on WVO for 120k miles
'91 Jetta ECO
'91 Jetta ECO
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coke