need some trouble shooting

[air-cooled or diesel]

got a problem like "no throttle response".
got my 1 oil-banger going, but she will stall at idle, and little or no response to throttle, here's what i've done.
semi-flushed/primed inj pump, tightened injectors, do not appear to be leaking, tight/primed inj lines, new fuel filter -primed, have fuel. 3 injectors were new, 1 may be new or lo miles on it.
ran her to hot and will not idle or restart, acts like she wants to restart. im thinking i need to flush out inj pump more thouroghly, whats the best way/product?
on the other post guy said lubro moly, anything else i can do?
have fuel in tank. getting alot of black soot, hard to tell if that was earlier or now. probably when she gets near to idle, adj.ed slow idle.
whats a good flush, even if its used on cat or mack, etc

[Quantum-man]

Would you mind awfully if you stuck to one thread, as one can't keep up with your progress 'What, what'


Try turning in the power screw a little

[air-cooled or diesel]

the screw located above the injector pipes?

[TylerDurden]

the screw located above the injector pipes?

yes

[air-cooled or diesel]

well i may have found problem, a little is coming out of inj bodies, just need tighten. fortunately i gots new inj's, so a cool down and we shall see.
thx all
any word on flushes that would work on injector pump.
never seen that before loose inj bodies, esp on new inj's.
just happened to look there as car was running at a fast idle and since we had fuel pipes opened couldnt spot before, maybe the find

[Quantum-man]

well i may have found problem, a little is coming out of inj bodies, just need tighten. fortunately i gots new inj's, so a cool down and we shall see.
thx all
any word on flushes that would work on injector pump.
never seen that before loose inj bodies, esp on new inj's.
just happened to look there as car was running at a fast idle and since we had fuel pipes opened couldnt spot before, maybe the find

Are these new injectors or rebuilt with new nozzles.
Leaks are common. [Not sure about paid for, but in the case of DIY]
They often settle down after a few days, or can be stopped by removing and slackening /retightening a few times.
My 'new old stock' French nozzles had one holder that was not quite parallel with the holder body and needed some attention.
Do not graunch it down, as you can then distort the nozzle so that the needle binds.
However, never in my 'limited' experience found any 'weeping' affecting running of engine...

[air-cooled or diesel]

well she runs better, but no hot restart, no low idle.
so the screw, ? out will be more? and in less? fuel.
cannt think what the else the problem could be
just flush the pump out w/heavy duty cleaner
i mean she sounds like she wants to run, but is not firing on all 4, maybe 2, if she was firing on 3 she would go.
do have new pistons and rings, havent driven yet to put a load on rings, may be a few days for that. have some excess blow by it seems, am going to clean out hose from vent to intake first.

[Quantum-man]

Struggling to start warm, often is a symptom of the over simplified glowplug relay design.
Try unplugging the sensor on back of head. Poor starting, assuming the injectors are injecting reasonably is likely to be a pump too retarded. Swing the top towards the engine a bit.

EDIT
By no slow idling do you mean it's idling too fast? Or it stalls? If it stslls , then maybe screwing in the accelerator lever's idle stop will help. Is the clip on the acc cable allowing return of the lever?
If there is a lack of response with foot, then more power by turning c/w on the max fuel screw will cure idling and response.

[air-cooled or diesel]

Struggling to start warm, often is a symptom of the over simplified glowplug relay design.
Try unplugging the sensor on back of head. Poor starting, assuming the injectors are injecting reasonably is likely to be a pump too retarded. Swing the top towards the engine a bit.

EDIT
By no slow idling do you mean it's idling too fast? Or it stalls? If it stslls , then maybe screwing in the accelerator lever's idle stop will help. Is the clip on the acc cable allowing return of the lever?
If there is a lack of response with foot, then more power by turning c/w on the max fuel screw will cure idling and response.

no glow plug relay have her hot wired w/ switch, pump is on by way of teeth on belt, adv. her some to get right tooth on belt. screwed in the slow idle just so she wouldnt stall, in really far, i want it to come out more. she idles, but like i said the idle screw is really far in, and she gets hot and will stall with out more throttle/ idle screw turned in some more. acc cable seems fine, allows return immediately, full movement freely.
seems like she s has response now, though sometimes you can go wot and no response for a couple of seconds, flush out the pump ? i think is the next step then maybe the screw you mentioned, the power screw
now on the power screw clockwise will be less / and counter clockwise will be more?
think i want to flush her 1st
maybe an injector is bad out of the batch i put in.
the ones i pulled out 1 didnt have a disc (i think) in it. and it looked like 3 were leaky.

[82vdub]

I dont' know if you've covered this before (seems to be too many posts on the same topic), but have you rigged up a jar of fuel to run the vehicle from? This removes nearly all issues with the fuel delivery system. No throttle response could be from a fuel blockage, and same with hot start issues. You will need the heat shields (new one's) installed under each of the injectors.

[air-cooled or diesel]

new heat shields every time.
need some flush then i can run from a seperate can.
what kind of flush though? can get some from <removed by moderator>, are there any other suggestions for a flush?

[82vdub]

I don't believe that Jack, the owner of this forum, sells Lubro Moly Diesel Purge. You should be able to get this at a diesel repair shop, or possibly locally through any parts store.