85 Golf engine and turbo
Moderator: Fatmobile
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- Turbo Charger
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- Location: Canada Southern Alberta
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Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
Just wondering what shims you had to put in after grinding the valves.
99 TDI Jetta (Z1 engine code)
94 Grand Caravan
89 Dodge Gold Stream B class
http://www.antiquedollhouseofpatterns.ca/
94 Grand Caravan
89 Dodge Gold Stream B class
http://www.antiquedollhouseofpatterns.ca/
Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
I just got the head off tonight, so I haven't done the valves yet. My valve grinder will also grind the stems so I'm hoping to match them to the shims I already have. I'll take some pics when I get to that in a couple of days.
Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
I was able to work on the golf for a few hours today. I started by honing the cylinders. I thought it was neat to see the cylinder wear from the top two rings....I heva never seen that in all of the gassers I have rebuilt.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0188.jpg)
This is what I used to do the honing.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0189.jpg)
A cylinder almost finished.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0194.jpg)
Got the pistons cleaned up.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0196.jpg)
Measured the ring gaps.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0197.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0207.jpg)
Got the pistons in and measured the piston protrusion. This is a tool I had made at a machine shop years ago for measuring liner height on a cadillac 4100 I was rebuilding. It worked perfectly for this. I could just move it around and see variations in the piston height. I measured a low of .032" and a high of .037" so it looks like the 5 notch gasket I have is ok. There was only two very small places on pistons 1 and 4 that measured .037" so I'll get a four notch if I ever have to pull the head again.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0202.jpg)
I found a stash of goodies I bought a while back. An oil cooler, some hoses, manifold nuts, coolant cap, some o-rings, and shifter pieces.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0206.jpg)
I also extracted the broken stud from the head. I pulled all of the other studs and had another break while pulling it, so I drilled and extracted it also. I picked up some 12.9 allen bolts to use when it goes back together.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0205.jpg)
I plan on going to the shop and working on the head tomorrow. This is the sioux valve grinding machine I mentioned. The pic turned out funny. That is not rust on it, but there is a lot of dust.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0187.jpg)
I'm wondering what to torque the head to. I don't have the info in front of me, but I think the manual suggests 66 ft-lbs for stock bolts and the arp paper says 80 ft-lbs. I don't want to torque them any tighter than I have to. What have others torques their 11mm studs to?
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0188.jpg)
This is what I used to do the honing.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0189.jpg)
A cylinder almost finished.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0194.jpg)
Got the pistons cleaned up.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0196.jpg)
Measured the ring gaps.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0197.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0207.jpg)
Got the pistons in and measured the piston protrusion. This is a tool I had made at a machine shop years ago for measuring liner height on a cadillac 4100 I was rebuilding. It worked perfectly for this. I could just move it around and see variations in the piston height. I measured a low of .032" and a high of .037" so it looks like the 5 notch gasket I have is ok. There was only two very small places on pistons 1 and 4 that measured .037" so I'll get a four notch if I ever have to pull the head again.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0202.jpg)
I found a stash of goodies I bought a while back. An oil cooler, some hoses, manifold nuts, coolant cap, some o-rings, and shifter pieces.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0206.jpg)
I also extracted the broken stud from the head. I pulled all of the other studs and had another break while pulling it, so I drilled and extracted it also. I picked up some 12.9 allen bolts to use when it goes back together.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0205.jpg)
I plan on going to the shop and working on the head tomorrow. This is the sioux valve grinding machine I mentioned. The pic turned out funny. That is not rust on it, but there is a lot of dust.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0187.jpg)
I'm wondering what to torque the head to. I don't have the info in front of me, but I think the manual suggests 66 ft-lbs for stock bolts and the arp paper says 80 ft-lbs. I don't want to torque them any tighter than I have to. What have others torques their 11mm studs to?
Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
I went to my shop this afternoon and did the valve job. It got all new guides, new valve stem seals, ground the valve faces, lapped the valves, and ground the stems to get the correct valve clearance. I didn't grind the seats because they still looked good.
Sorry for the crappy pics. This new phone is pretty sensitive to the light being just right.
I started out by removing the cam, lifters and valve springs.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0208.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0210.jpg)
I replaced the guides next. I couldn't find my guide drivers, but I found that the smallest handle from a harbor freight bushing driver set happened to fit the guides perfectly.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0217.jpg)
Next I cleaned the valves and ground the valve faces.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0218.jpg)
Then I lapped the valves to make sure that the valves and seats had a good contact pattern. I guess I forgot to take pics of this step.
Then I installed the valves (without springs), lifters, and cam so I could check valve clearances. I had to grind every stem to get the valve clearances in spec. I did make a list of my valve clearances and what shims are currently in there, but I left it on the workbench. I'll try to get a pic of it in the next few days. That way I"ll know what shims to get when it comes time to adjust the valves, because I'll probably lose that paper before then.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0220.jpg)
Once that was done I removed the cam and lifters so I could install the valve stem seals and valve springs.
I then went back to the house and glued some 120 grit sandpaper to a thick piece of glass that a friend gave me a while back. I lightly sanded the head gasket sealing surface and the manifold sealing surface. Just enough so I would feel pretty confident that the head is flat and clean.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0223.jpg)
I also installed some new Bosch glow plugs. Will do the Continental belts soon.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0226.jpg)
I then got out the ARP studs and the Victor Reinz head gasket....then set the head down onto the block.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0224.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0225.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0227.jpg)
I wanted to torque the head, but I was tired and had a headache so that will have to wait till tomorrow.
I did do some searching and found that some are having success using the torque spec recommended by ARP, so I plan on torquing to 80 ft-lbs.
Sorry for the crappy pics. This new phone is pretty sensitive to the light being just right.
I started out by removing the cam, lifters and valve springs.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0208.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0210.jpg)
I replaced the guides next. I couldn't find my guide drivers, but I found that the smallest handle from a harbor freight bushing driver set happened to fit the guides perfectly.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0217.jpg)
Next I cleaned the valves and ground the valve faces.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0218.jpg)
Then I lapped the valves to make sure that the valves and seats had a good contact pattern. I guess I forgot to take pics of this step.
Then I installed the valves (without springs), lifters, and cam so I could check valve clearances. I had to grind every stem to get the valve clearances in spec. I did make a list of my valve clearances and what shims are currently in there, but I left it on the workbench. I'll try to get a pic of it in the next few days. That way I"ll know what shims to get when it comes time to adjust the valves, because I'll probably lose that paper before then.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0220.jpg)
Once that was done I removed the cam and lifters so I could install the valve stem seals and valve springs.
I then went back to the house and glued some 120 grit sandpaper to a thick piece of glass that a friend gave me a while back. I lightly sanded the head gasket sealing surface and the manifold sealing surface. Just enough so I would feel pretty confident that the head is flat and clean.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0223.jpg)
I also installed some new Bosch glow plugs. Will do the Continental belts soon.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0226.jpg)
I then got out the ARP studs and the Victor Reinz head gasket....then set the head down onto the block.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0224.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0225.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0227.jpg)
I wanted to torque the head, but I was tired and had a headache so that will have to wait till tomorrow.
I did do some searching and found that some are having success using the torque spec recommended by ARP, so I plan on torquing to 80 ft-lbs.
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- Global Moderator
- Posts: 7566
- Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2002 10:28 pm
- Location: north central Iowa
Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
Yes, I do 80 ft lbs. an the 11mm ARP.
I set the head gasket on the block and take a good look at where the edges sit when it is centered.
I once removed a headgasket and the piston was hitting the edge of the gasket,..
they might have put a 12mm headgasket on an 11mm block or something but I have always been careful about where they sit since then.
There is room for the gasket to move around a little.
I set the head gasket on the block and take a good look at where the edges sit when it is centered.
I once removed a headgasket and the piston was hitting the edge of the gasket,..
they might have put a 12mm headgasket on an 11mm block or something but I have always been careful about where they sit since then.
There is room for the gasket to move around a little.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
Thanks for the advice.
I'm glad to see that 80 ft lbs is working for you. Makes me feel better.
I did notice that the gasket and the head could both move around a little. I was expecting that once the washers and nuts were on that the head wouldn't move. I did sit there and think about it for a second and wondered why vw didn't use a couple of dowels to keep things located like most others do. I'll slide the head back up off the studs and study the gasket movement.
I'm glad to see that 80 ft lbs is working for you. Makes me feel better.
I did notice that the gasket and the head could both move around a little. I was expecting that once the washers and nuts were on that the head wouldn't move. I did sit there and think about it for a second and wondered why vw didn't use a couple of dowels to keep things located like most others do. I'll slide the head back up off the studs and study the gasket movement.
Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
I didn't get much done on the golf tonight. I worked a little late, and had to stop by my friends shop to pick up the kolbenschmidt rod bearings that I ordered the other day. He had a hydraulic cylinder on one of his lifts leaking so I helped to reseal it. When I finally got home, I visited with a neighbor about the car he is painting for his son and him needing help on an upcoming engine rebuild for his toyota truck.
When I finally got to the golf, I lifted the head off and checked the gasket movement. There is just a little. It doesn't look like there is enough that misalignment could cause any problems. It happens to line up the best when it is moved towards the firewall, and with the tilt of the engine it wanted to be in that position anyway. I'm glad I didn't torque it down the other night so I had a chance to get a good look.
I put the head back on and installed the washers and nuts with the ARP lube and torqued them down in stages starting at 20 ft-lbs, then 40, 60, and finally 80, and went over them 2 more times at 80 just to be sure.
I cleaned up the valve cover and oil baffle, and set them on the head for now to keep it clean in there.
I still have a bit to do:
- install the new rod bearings and oil pan
- install new hoses and belts
- drill and tap the exhaust manifold for the egt probe
- install manifolds
- install turbo
- modify turbo oil drain hose
- bend up a new turbo oil feed line
- make a down pipe
- maybe install the oil cooler
- set timing
- install injector lines
- fill with oil and coolant
I'm still drawn toward installing the vnt turbo. With everything else being new or nearly new on this engine, a brand new turbo would make sense instead of a decent used one.
When I finally got to the golf, I lifted the head off and checked the gasket movement. There is just a little. It doesn't look like there is enough that misalignment could cause any problems. It happens to line up the best when it is moved towards the firewall, and with the tilt of the engine it wanted to be in that position anyway. I'm glad I didn't torque it down the other night so I had a chance to get a good look.
I put the head back on and installed the washers and nuts with the ARP lube and torqued them down in stages starting at 20 ft-lbs, then 40, 60, and finally 80, and went over them 2 more times at 80 just to be sure.
I cleaned up the valve cover and oil baffle, and set them on the head for now to keep it clean in there.
I still have a bit to do:
- install the new rod bearings and oil pan
- install new hoses and belts
- drill and tap the exhaust manifold for the egt probe
- install manifolds
- install turbo
- modify turbo oil drain hose
- bend up a new turbo oil feed line
- make a down pipe
- maybe install the oil cooler
- set timing
- install injector lines
- fill with oil and coolant
I'm still drawn toward installing the vnt turbo. With everything else being new or nearly new on this engine, a brand new turbo would make sense instead of a decent used one.
Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
I didn't have a lot of time for the car tonight because the wife and kids stopped by for dinner and to visit, but I did get a little done. Drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold for the egt probe, installed the manifolds and turbo, and changed the lower hoses that fuel had dripped on and swelled. I need to add resealing the cold start lever to the list. I resealed the pump a few months back and must have messed up an o-ring.
I'm still mot sure what I want to do about the air filter, but will probably run it like this for the short term unless somebody has a good suggestion.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0228.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0229.jpg)
I still have to do:
- install the new rod bearings and oil pan
- install new belts
- modify turbo oil drain hose
- bend up a new turbo oil feed line
- make a down pipe
- maybe install the oil cooler
- reseal cold start lever
- set timing
- install injector lines
- fill with oil and coolant
I'm still mot sure what I want to do about the air filter, but will probably run it like this for the short term unless somebody has a good suggestion.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0228.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0229.jpg)
I still have to do:
- install the new rod bearings and oil pan
- install new belts
- modify turbo oil drain hose
- bend up a new turbo oil feed line
- make a down pipe
- maybe install the oil cooler
- reseal cold start lever
- set timing
- install injector lines
- fill with oil and coolant
Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
The red wire is it for electrical line heater,and if which temp and haw meny Ampere.
I`ll improve my English
Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
Yes it is an inline electric fuel heater. I made it a couple of years ago and it was calculated to be 100 watts which should be a little over 7 amps. I don't remember what the temperature rise is, but it seems like maybe it was around 20 degrees F. I usually only use it in the winter time because the fuel/oil/wvo gets too hot in the summer and makes a problem with carbon buildup on the injector tips. I made it with 3/8" aluminum tubing, nichrome wire, woven fiberglass sleeve, silicone tape, and covered it all in 1/2" heater hose. I was going to make injector line heaters also, but don't think I really need them on this car. I have had very good results using them on my mercedes though.mtran wrote:The red wire is it for electrical line heater,and if which temp and haw meny Ampere.
Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
I have been busy with the kids the past day or so, but finally got a couple of hours on the car tonight. I cleaned the oil pan, and worked on the down pipe and got it almost complete. I just need to cut the last joint at an angle and weld it. The remaining items on the list should go pretty quickly in the morning......I hope.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0245.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0247.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0249.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0252.jpg)
I still have to do:
- install the new rod bearings and oil pan
- install new belts
- modify turbo oil drain hose
- bend up a new turbo oil feed line
x make a down pipe - Almost finished
x maybe install the oil cooler - maybe some other time. Oil temp has been out around 210.
- reseal cold start lever
- set timing
- install injector lines
- fill with oil and coolant
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0245.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0247.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0249.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0252.jpg)
I still have to do:
- install the new rod bearings and oil pan
- install new belts
- modify turbo oil drain hose
- bend up a new turbo oil feed line
x make a down pipe - Almost finished
x maybe install the oil cooler - maybe some other time. Oil temp has been out around 210.
- reseal cold start lever
- set timing
- install injector lines
- fill with oil and coolant
Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
I spent most of the day working on the car today. Installed the new rod bearings and the oil pan. Modified the oil drain hose. I couldn't get it off of the old hose barb and had to cut it. Must have been the wire braiding in the hydraulic hose I used.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0255.jpg)
I was able to re-bend the existing oil feed line. Didn't get a pic of it though.
Then I finished up the down pipe. I got the angle wrong on the last cut, so I filled the gap with a scrap piece of tubing that I had just trimmed off. The welds look terrible mostly because I was using flux core wire.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0256.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0257.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0258.jpg)
I then resealed the cold start lever, set the timing, installed injector lines, and filled with oil and coolant. I also spent some time fixing a neighbors car. Then it was time to see if it would run. The whistling in the exhaust at idle didn't really come through on the video.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/th_Video0004-1.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/th_Video0005-1.jpg)
I warmed it up, then re-torqued the head bolts. Found that the rubber valve cover gasket was leaking pretty bad, so I installed a cork one for now. I also found that the top plate on the IP is now leaking, so I'll have to pull it off. I also had to turn down the idle several turns.
I took it for a drive and it felt really good for about 1/2 mile, then it wouldn't boost much. I expected that I had a boost leak, but after cooling down a little it is boosting good again. I wonder if it just needs more fuel.....I might turn it up a little and see what happens.
I still have to do:
- install new belts
x maybe install the oil cooler - maybe some other time. Oil temp has been out around 210.
- fix IP leak at top plate
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0255.jpg)
I was able to re-bend the existing oil feed line. Didn't get a pic of it though.
Then I finished up the down pipe. I got the angle wrong on the last cut, so I filled the gap with a scrap piece of tubing that I had just trimmed off. The welds look terrible mostly because I was using flux core wire.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0256.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0257.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0258.jpg)
I then resealed the cold start lever, set the timing, installed injector lines, and filled with oil and coolant. I also spent some time fixing a neighbors car. Then it was time to see if it would run. The whistling in the exhaust at idle didn't really come through on the video.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/th_Video0004-1.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/th_Video0005-1.jpg)
I warmed it up, then re-torqued the head bolts. Found that the rubber valve cover gasket was leaking pretty bad, so I installed a cork one for now. I also found that the top plate on the IP is now leaking, so I'll have to pull it off. I also had to turn down the idle several turns.
I took it for a drive and it felt really good for about 1/2 mile, then it wouldn't boost much. I expected that I had a boost leak, but after cooling down a little it is boosting good again. I wonder if it just needs more fuel.....I might turn it up a little and see what happens.
I still have to do:
- install new belts
x maybe install the oil cooler - maybe some other time. Oil temp has been out around 210.
- fix IP leak at top plate
Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
I drove it some after work today. Disconnected the wastegate and turned up the fuel 1.5 flats. It makes smoke now and I saw egt a little over 1000 when accelerating from 35 to 45mph in fourth gear. Boost was around 12 to 14 psi when cold before turning up the fuel. After it warmed up it would sometimes boost to around 8 and other times 2 was all I could get. The turbo whine sounds the same whether boost is good or not. I'm wondering if the clear silicone hose I used to connect the boost gauge is not sealing good.
Even when boost is up, it is lacking the top end power that I'm used to. I really like the low end power it has now though. So with the top plate on the injection pump leaking and having a turbo top that I think will fit, I decided to see what it would take to mount it.
This is a rebuilt pump I picked up for $51 off ebay a while back. The pump number is 0 460 424 044 and seems to be from a hercules diesel.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0265.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0276.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/stampednumbers.jpg)
It looks like it should work. The throttle shaft is in the right place and is the same diameter as the vw. I'll have to remove the stop lever because it gets in the way of the vw governer. It might be a good place to tap into for internal pressure checks.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0310.jpg)
What I haven't figured out yet is how to remove the stop pin in the pump while it is in the car.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0313.jpg)
Has anybody removed the stop pin with the pump assembled?
Even when boost is up, it is lacking the top end power that I'm used to. I really like the low end power it has now though. So with the top plate on the injection pump leaking and having a turbo top that I think will fit, I decided to see what it would take to mount it.
This is a rebuilt pump I picked up for $51 off ebay a while back. The pump number is 0 460 424 044 and seems to be from a hercules diesel.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0265.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0276.jpg)
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/stampednumbers.jpg)
It looks like it should work. The throttle shaft is in the right place and is the same diameter as the vw. I'll have to remove the stop lever because it gets in the way of the vw governer. It might be a good place to tap into for internal pressure checks.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0310.jpg)
What I haven't figured out yet is how to remove the stop pin in the pump while it is in the car.
![Image](http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/79300sd/Photo0313.jpg)
Has anybody removed the stop pin with the pump assembled?
Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
I had a change of heart today. I need the golf to get to work in the morning.....I need to do a few things to the Mercedes 300TD soon.
So I put the pump back together with the na top and new seals. I fixed a small oil leak, tightened the pivot bolts for the ac compressor, checked to make sure the manifolds were still tight and that is when I saw a small spot of oil splatter on the intake by where the line for the boost gauge attaches. The silicone tubing that I had used was swelling under the heat and pressure, so I changed it to injector return line. It is now boosting to 18psi without smoke.
I did turn the smoke screw up and it didn't help boost any, but I could make a good cloud of smoke that way so I turned it back down.
I really can't tell the difference whether the air conditioning is on or not. This car has never been that way......always had to turn it off when taking off from a traffic light. And the idle speed now stays about the same with it on or off.
I like how strong it feels at lower rpm....up to maybe 3000, but it doesn't have anywhere near the top end power that it did with the T3. I'm going to piece together a turbo pump soon and see if that will help. I either need to cut the stop pin out of another pump, or find a pulley for the larger diameter shaft that the turbo pump has.
So I put the pump back together with the na top and new seals. I fixed a small oil leak, tightened the pivot bolts for the ac compressor, checked to make sure the manifolds were still tight and that is when I saw a small spot of oil splatter on the intake by where the line for the boost gauge attaches. The silicone tubing that I had used was swelling under the heat and pressure, so I changed it to injector return line. It is now boosting to 18psi without smoke.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
I did turn the smoke screw up and it didn't help boost any, but I could make a good cloud of smoke that way so I turned it back down.
I really can't tell the difference whether the air conditioning is on or not. This car has never been that way......always had to turn it off when taking off from a traffic light. And the idle speed now stays about the same with it on or off.
I like how strong it feels at lower rpm....up to maybe 3000, but it doesn't have anywhere near the top end power that it did with the T3. I'm going to piece together a turbo pump soon and see if that will help. I either need to cut the stop pin out of another pump, or find a pulley for the larger diameter shaft that the turbo pump has.
Re: 85 Golf engine and turbo
I had a doctors appointment this morning, so I didn't go into work until noon. Since I was only there for a half day I decided that it would be a good time to make a manual boost controller. I looked around the parts room and found enough to get started......1/4" npt brass tee, a few springs, and a 1/4" npt brass nipple. I tapped the nipple to 3/8"-16 and then tightened it into one leg of the tee. Then I cut it off flush with the tee, and threaded a 3/8 bolt into it along with a flat washer and jam nut. I had to stop by the hardware store on the way home to pick up a ball bearing (the last one they had) and a couple of 1/4"npt by 3/16" barbed fittings. When I got home I drilled a 5/64" hole in the side of the tee and assembled the other pieces. I installed it and adjusted it to about 15 psi. I'm not sure how much the K03 can put out long term without damage, but figured 15 was a good place to start.
I also think I found the problem with losing power at half the revs that I know this motor used to do. I found that the metal adjuster tab on the throttle cable had been moved about 5 notches. Needless to say I was not getting full throttle. I'm willing to bet that my 9yr old son had something to do with that.......at least he was helping.
I found that I have yet another IP leak this afternoon. I had thought it was a delivery valve, so I pulled it out and installed a new copper washer. I later found that it was the piece between the delivery valves, the one that the timing plug screws into and takes a three sided wrench. I decided it would have to wait until a different day.
I also think I found the problem with losing power at half the revs that I know this motor used to do. I found that the metal adjuster tab on the throttle cable had been moved about 5 notches. Needless to say I was not getting full throttle. I'm willing to bet that my 9yr old son had something to do with that.......at least he was helping.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
I found that I have yet another IP leak this afternoon. I had thought it was a delivery valve, so I pulled it out and installed a new copper washer. I later found that it was the piece between the delivery valves, the one that the timing plug screws into and takes a three sided wrench. I decided it would have to wait until a different day.