Cam cover studs- lock-tite or anti-seize?

[WAgrower]

This is a noob question for sure; but I can think of reasons for why you would want to use blue lock tite when installing studs. However I'm hoping they are put in with anti-size so that replacing my broken ones isn't too hard.
Or just nothing at all?

[air-cooled or diesel]

do you mean the 'valve cover' studs? or the cam saddle studs themselves?
the 'valve cover' studs i wouldnt put anything. locktite on those small studs can lead to problems if you need to remove them later. and you dont need it for them either! - non-load bearing part.

[Josh]

Well I have found that lock-tite on the valve cover nuts prevents them from eventually shaking loose and leading to oil seepage. I've used it on them for years and never had a problem. Anti-seize on the threaded studs couldn't hurt on reinstallation, but as far as factory spec having them, I think you'll be out of luck. The busted ones will require the typical PITA removal rigamaroll one becomes accustomed to on old vehicles. If there's a tidbit that can be grabbed with vice grips, give that a go. Otherwise you're stuck trying one of the drill-based solutions, combined with pb blaster-esque solvent and/or heat.

[Fatmobile]

I like blue locktite for the valve cover studs,..
so they don't come out when I remove the nuts.

[air-cooled or diesel]

a few years ago they had green loctite, if they still have this i'd recommend, as blue is over-kill for this application. the green loctite was less than blue.

[82vdub]

Loctite still makes blue and red (locking during assembly) and green for after the part is assembled.

[air-cooled or diesel]

green came out years ago, havent used/seen it since, i may be wrong but vaguely remember it was less locking than blue.
havent verified it with my own eyes but am told in our garage we have ?purple?? for post-assembled use.

[Fatmobile]

Yeah, I was thinking green was supposed to wick into the threads after assembly.

[WAgrower]

Well I used the blue lock-tite becasue the studs have no shoulder on them and I don't want them coming out when I take the nuts off.

During the proses I did however manage to drop a stud down into the oil pan, after slipping on wet pavement while leaning into the back of the van.... Head gash and finger F*%$ed up to prove it too...

So any worries with a stud floating around in my oil pan?? I tried to fish it out with every magnet I've got and no luck. I just changed the oil less then 200miles ago so I really don't want to drop the pan now...

Can I wait till my next change?
The oil pan gasket and the gasket between the block and cooler are weeping so I can drop the pan to retrieve the stud. Any other maintenance I should consider when I drop the pan? The oil pump was rebuilt about 5k ago so it should be good, but the screen? replace it or just clean it?

Thanks all!

[the man 53]

I would get that stud out asap. My friend in Mt. Vernon did the same thing and put a 1/2" hole out of the front of his block. He got lucky and was able to put a pipe plug in it. I think that pipe plug will be a weak spot in the casting now, but it is still on the road. I guess if you want to gamble and don't mind changing blocks or having patches if you get lucky you could try to leave it. I would get a clean pan, drain, and keep the new oil.Or leave it in the pan. Or just change it again as oil is cheap and won't hurt anything to change the oil even if you spill some. I would check for RTV in the pan and look up in the cylinders for wear. Clean the pan out real good.

[air-cooled or diesel]

you need to get that stud out now. and make sure you find it, cause you could pull the oil pan and find out it hasnt gone all the way down. on the other hand you may find when you pull the pan the stud is on the bottom. you can re-use the oil. drain oil into a clean pan or bucket. you need a pan gasket and 1/4 drive to get to bolts by trans. only takes less than an hour to do and re-use oil. or you'll be getting new engine parts

[82vdub]

If you know the stud went into the pan and have an idea of where in the pan it is, you may be able to move the stud with a large magnet. It could be possible to move the stud enough to where you can get at the end of it through the drain hole, and get it to stand up and come out the drain hole. But, pulling the pan isn't that difficult of a task.

[WAgrower]

Well gaskets are the way and I'll just re-use the oil as recommended.

How did the stud get thrown through the block? that one has me wondering....

I tried the big ass magnet from under the pan but I can't hear it moving. I'm about 99% sure it's in the pan, I heard it slide along the passage and then "tink" as it fell into the pan. I'm not sure what else it could have hit like that.

On a side note I have been driving the van and the OP is steady and no odd sounds from the lower end.

[82vdub]

The magnet was worth a try. Nothing lost by trying.

[Quantum-man]

Do you not have one of those telescopic magnets inside a screwdriver?
Masking tape around it's edge will improve it's mobility.
Poke it down the drain, in the head, or:

After draining oil bend it into a curve and enter by the sump drain.
Fish around with a TIG rod or similar