new timing belt little issue.

[bbob203]

Really apreciate all the help and advice from you gents.

[TylerDurden]

Ok so I've gathered this is how I pull this job off..
1. Get engine to tdc using flywheel marker and cam position.
2. Mark ip position Loosen ip bolts rotate ip toward head slightly.
3. Retighten ip bolts.
4. Loosen and retighten fittings on injector lines to releive the tension from rotating the ip.
5. Replace cover and fire it up.

Yep!
You can skip step one if you are not using a gauge.
(I also leave the cover off until I know the machine is starting/running well.)

If you go hardcore-hillbilly, you leave the bolts just loose enough and move the IP while the engine is running and listen to the tone of the clatter... when it gets sharper ("marbles"), you can back off to the cusp of that point, shutdown and tighten the bolts. Then test for power, smoke, clatter, hotstart and coldstart.

[bbob203]

The guy is a great mechanic with an awesome reputation. I think he is more of a benz guy though considering he owns three of them. Though I do believe he was a cert. Vw tech at one point. Did timing belt, tensioner, water pump, thermostat and new vbelts for 325 incl parts all oem german manf. Stuff. Oh yea and a crank seal.

[TylerDurden]

The guy is a great mechanic with an awesome reputation. I think he is more of a benz guy though considering he owns three of them. Though I do believe he was a cert. Vw tech at one point. Did timing belt, tensioner, water pump, thermostat and new vbelts for 325 incl parts all oem german manf. Stuff. Oh yea and a crank seal.

Sounds pretty good.

Again, if all other attributes are fine (power, smoke, starting, starting, etc.), but the idle/vibration is too low for your liking, you can easily adjust the idle stop.

Does it smooth with a bit of pedal?

[82vdub]

If you're just advancing the pump, there's no need to do step #1. That's for messing with the timing belt, which you won't be doing when you're just rotating the IP.

[bbob203]

I think it still has something to be desired as far as performance and startup. The throttle cable has no adjustment left in it. I figure as long as I mark it not much I can screw up?

[bbob203]

Went out this morning yanked my cold start hit the glow plugs one key turn fired up no roughness no smoke. Temp is 52 degrees unseasonably warm here. Seems if ita 40 or below the starts a more rough and smoke is more prevelant.

[coke]

I would definitely advance the timing.

[vanbcguy]

For what it's worth, I got to check my buddy's Vanagon pump with the dial gauge and compare the difference between the cold start lever pulled and the cold start lever stowed. It knocks the timing out by about 0.30mm.

We found out by setting the timing with the CS pulled by accident. Ran like p00p. Checked the timing and it was waaaaay retardend, read at about 0.45 (NA). Re-timed with the CS handle stowed and compared the difference between it pulled - got 0.55 or so to 0.85. That's a huge difference, and in our case was more than a tooth on the timing belt. Couldn't advance the pump enough without it running in to the injection lines.

[coke]

You can pull the timing belt off the IP and turn the sprocket forward 1 tooth and put the belt back on it. Some people have to do this to achieve proper timing. I always time by near, never by dial, but there are some people out there who say it has to be done with a dial. I prefer to drive it and advance/retard based on what it feels like and sounds like, smoke output, starting, etc.

[Quantum-man]

For what it's worth, I got to check my buddy's Vanagon pump with the dial gauge and compare the difference between the cold start lever pulled and the cold start lever stowed. It knocks the timing out by about 0.30mm.

We found out by setting the timing with the CS pulled by accident. Ran like p00p. Checked the timing and it was waaaaay retardend, read at about 0.45 (NA). Re-timed with the CS handle stowed and compared the difference between it pulled - got 0.55 or so to 0.85. That's a huge difference, and in our case was more than a tooth on the timing belt. Couldn't advance the pump enough without it running in to the injection lines.

0.3 x 39 thou = 11 thou.
@ operating point on the pump cam, every 5 thou is one tooth on flywheel 'advance'; thus advance is 2 teeth.
Every flywheel tooth is 2.73 degrees thus lever pull is 5.4 degrees. However adjacent parts of the cam curve is only 4 thou per tooth. so advance is indeed nearer 5 degrees [crank].

To not know all this is understandable, but to not know that coldstart pull affects static timing [for this thread owner's mechanic is almost unforgivable. Free retiming in order IMO]

[vanbcguy]

For what it's worth, I got to check my buddy's Vanagon pump with the dial gauge and compare the difference between the cold start lever pulled and the cold start lever stowed. It knocks the timing out by about 0.30mm.

We found out by setting the timing with the CS pulled by accident. Ran like p00p. Checked the timing and it was waaaaay retardend, read at about 0.45 (NA). Re-timed with the CS handle stowed and compared the difference between it pulled - got 0.55 or so to 0.85. That's a huge difference, and in our case was more than a tooth on the timing belt. Couldn't advance the pump enough without it running in to the injection lines.

0.3 x 39 thou = 11 thou.
@ operating point on the pump cam, every 5 thou is one tooth on flywheel 'advance'; thus advance is 2 teeth.
Every flywheel tooth is 2.73 degrees thus lever pull is 5.4 degrees. However adjacent parts of the cam curve is only 4 thou per tooth. so advance is indeed nearer 5 degrees [crank].

To not know all this is understandable, but to not know that coldstart pull affects static timing [for this thread owner's mechanic is almost unforgivable. Free retiming in order IMO]

Yeah it was more of a situation of "OK, we're done! Let's start it up! Awwwwww crap, the CS handle was out...."

I thought he'd checked, he didn't think to check. So the dial gauge went back in, hence the measurements... Engine was re-timed properly and then started/ran/didn't fog out the neighbourhood.

[Fatmobile]

When it's running/starting and close enough to the sweet spot:
I paint the area near the top front bolt, the easy one to get to, paint it right at the junction of the bracket and pump.
This is so the scribed line can be seen.

Mark it then turn the top of the pump toward the engine just the width of a pencil line.

Tighten it down and test drive.
Rinse and repeat if needed.
A bit of Hagar-style hillbilly tuning.
With a Rabbit I don't even have to remove the upper timing belt cover,.. can't remember if the A2s have a hole for the lower bolt.

[bbob203]

Advanced ip. adj'd throttle runs like it should! Went hardcore hillbilly on it loosend pump fired up the engine and adjusted it that way. As for my throttle I had no more adjustment left in it so I went to lowes and bought some rubber washers and cut them and put 3 between the clip and the throttle cable housing carrier worked like a charm.

[TylerDurden]

Hillbilly 1st Class.

May the spirit of Hagar smile upon you.