Time for a head gasket

[FineFrank]

I finally killed my 83. Radiator split on the side and dumped all the coolant, and the engine got pretty hot, and coolant leaks into #2. I have a mechanical head (oil drain boss between 2 and 3 only), but I have a 3 hole gasket, part # 068103383AG and 12 mm head bolts-i measured with an end wrench- 11 won't fit over but 12 will.
I've searched, but I'm still confused about the holes vs. notches on the gasket. I presume I'll need a 1,2or 3 notch gasket depending on my piston protrusion. Am I on the right track?
The engine in my 83 is a Brazillian replacement. The previous owner ruined the original engine by running it out of coolant.

[82vdub]

Too bad on the carnage. Someone made up a system that's posted somewhere on these posts about adding a low coolant sensor to a vehicle that didn't come with one to help avoid this situation. Makes one (like me) wonder if I should add something like this.

To know what notch head gasket you need, you'll need to measure piston protrusion out of the block and compare that to the specs to know which gasket to use. Or, just buy the three notch and use that as it will work in all conditions. Mine has a three notch and I've never checked for protrusion and proper one to use. I've got to redo ole 82's head gasket as soon as I get my keester out in the garage to do it. Have the ARP studs, belt and head gasket sitting and waitin..............

[FineFrank]

Yup, the new coolant tank is in the works.
So the "notched" gasket is the right one? Why the blazes would my mill have a gasket with holes?

What part number do I need for ARP studs? I'm not very excited about listening to the racket the TTY bolts make. Taking them out was bad enough...

[82vdub]

ARP 12mm studs are #204-4706. That wreched retorque gives me the chills every time I've had to do them with regular head bolts. No more.

[Fatmobile]

Yup, the new coolant tank is in the works.
So the "notched" gasket is the right one? Why the blazes would my mill have a gasket with holes?

Some have holes some have "half holes"/notches on the edge.
Just a different manufacturer.

[FineFrank]

Well, It's time for more than a head gasket. I scrubbed the head last night and it's got a big crack between the valve and the prechamber insert, and it's also warped more than .004. I'm thinking it's junk.
I'm tempted to buy a reman head from Jack, but I have no core, so it might be just as well to get a new one.

Anyone have a new head taking up room?

I'm checking the block tonight. Bach tonight with more info and pictures.

[Quantum-man]

Well, It's time for more than a head gasket. I scrubbed the head last night and it's got a big crack between the valve and the prechamber insert, and it's also warped more than .004. I'm thinking it's junk.
I'm tempted to buy a reman head from Jack, but I have no core, so it might be just as well to get a new one.

Anyone have a new head taking up room?

I'm checking the block tonight. Bach tonight with more info and pictures.

I'd be tempted to drop some veg colouring into the crack to see if it reaches into the water chamber. Funnel some water through the head to see if it colours. Pull the prechamber and get it welded if neccessary.

[FineFrank]

The block is straight. There's a mark in #2 that looked like a crack yesterday, but after filling the block with water last night and finding no leaks, and inspecting it with magnification this morning, I'm a little less ready to dump the car. Piston protrusion is .813mm.


Here's the head crack pics:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wyowandere ... hotostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wyowandere ... hotostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wyowandere ... hotostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wyowandere ... hotostream

I guess I could have the head welded, but I don't have a machinist nearby that I trust, and getting the prechamber out is something I've never done.
Then there's the matter of getting the head straight enough to seal. In its worst place, it's warped over .004. I'll check back later today with exact numbers.
Anyone know a machinist that fixes this kind of thing?

[82vdub]

call Jack 937 217 7060 or email him.

[tummyacid]

I feel like I am leaning to another head (possibly from Jack)as well. Should I start a new thread?

[CarlosA]

That is probably a bad crack. If it were me i`d TIG it up and mill it flat with sand paper and see what happens.

If you don`t mind experimenting a bit you might be able to get away with some sort of DuraFix stuff. The fact that this DuraFix melts at 732 degrees tells me that you`d never have an issue of it softening up and failing under normal driving conditions, aside from the combustion happening a little over that. lol

I also think that a rebuilder would take it as a core and fix it himself, so call Jack first ^