I just put this engine that I rebuilt into the car. I'm having a problem where it starts but I have no throttle. As in it will idle, but I cant rev it at all. At first it was fine but now nothing (Clog?)
Its a 85 diesel golf with a jetta 1.6TD engine. Fresh fuel filter good fuel. It seems like it is starved but I have fuel in the lines obviously because its running.
I had tested the pump on the bench from a bottle of diesel clean and it seemed to work, it let me test the injectors as well. As I run it in the car I can see reddish/brown fuel working its way out of the pump. Almost like there is pressure pushing the fuel back into the supply line. I don't seem to be getting any fuel return either.
I believe I have a bad injector pump... is anyone familiar with this symptom, if so what would it take to fix it? Would I have to get deep into the pump?
I have a Bentley but I am also wondering what the two switches attached to the IP do. Because I dont have them hooked up, I dont think they ever worked anyway on the old engine.
Nice clear fuel line. I can see the air in the supply fuel line.
What's the status of the IP. Is it original to the car, new, rebuilt, a used one, a different one or ?? Was it on the running car before you rebuilt the engine?
Getting these things to start and run properly when you open the fuel system is sometimes quite difficult. I would rig up a jar of fuel and filter and feed that directly to the IP. This eliminates any fuel supply issues. Get the car running first, then connect the cars fuel system to the engine. If you have problems after that, you know you have a fuel delivery problem.
Is there lots of white smoke coming from the exhaust? Have you advanced or retarded the IP timing to see if it changes? You sure your throttle cable is actuating the IP? These cars will idle lots of times when the fuel system is just foamy fuel. Crack the throttle and it won't do anything. Do more digging and post.
Everybody else lists their cars here - but not me.
Bottle feeding with a return to the bottle will completely isolate supply. A blocked tank return line can knacker operation.
A clear line on the tank return line can also be helpful: as noted above, foamy return flow may indicate a bad seal on the IP. If a unit has been sitting for awhile, hardening seals can start to leak when resuming operation (or attempting to). EDIT: I see the clear return now.
Also looks like a new fuel-filter... ensure the flow is proper direction.
Have a nice day.
'91 Jetta ECOdiesel TD - clean & complete (less motor/tranny) for sale
Try adding more fuel via the max power screw. Symptoms are the same for this error when pumps have been rebuilt etc.
"I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD )
I've been working on it all morning and have some information to share.
This turbo pump was on the engine before rebuild, the engine was in rough shape and I had to do a lot to it. When the engine was pulled they simply cut the fuel lines and It most likely sat with open lines for many years. I figured the pump needed a rebuild but I was hoping I didn't have to spend the money.
Timed it to 1.02
I set up the fuel system to feed from a bottle and this definitely helped. 82vdub, you are right on as far as idling on foamy fuel. As i lifted my bottle up I had fuel and a lot of air bubbles in the return line. This is the first time fuel has been visible in the return line.
After all the air was out of the pump I fired it up and it idled but it doesn't seem to want to pull fuel. As I throttle (using the arm on the pump) it starves. If I throttle while squeezing the bottle (applying pressure to the fuel inlet) it will rev quite nicely. I hope this makes sense.
I can use the N/A pump which never gave me problems. I think I'll swap pumps, assuming this pump needs a rebuild. I'll get better fuel economy with the N/A pump anyway right?
I am getting quite a bit of white smoke as it is running...
Another thing, I have a freeze plug that is leaking coolant. It couldn't be in a better location, its the one in the center of the block on the exhaust side, and is easily accessible. I already replaced it with a new plug and it continues to leak. Any suggestions?
Before pulling the IP, I'd advance it and see if that helps any. Or, rotate the IP as needed to see if it does run any better. Last two belts I timed them by the dial gauge and fire the car up. It ran horrible both times. I kept trying to dial it in, but eventually I removed the dial gauge and just timed it by ear. So, somehow someway, I screwed up the timing two separate times, and multiple times each belt change.
You can go get a block plug that's a universal fit one. The type that has the screw in the middle that squeezes the two plated together and makes a rubber piece expand and seal. Remove the old plug (or at least measure it) to know what size plug to get as there's a lot to chose from.
Everybody else lists their cars here - but not me.
Fiddled with the turbo pump for a while before calling it. Threw the N/A pump in there and it solved that problem. It's running well and I took it for a drive, what a feeling . The turbo that I rebuilt spools up nicely and really pushes the car. I still have to get the timing on this pump right on but I'll do that tonight. I have a coolant leak from the hose that connects the water pump to the metal line that feeds the heater core, so there's another thing on the to do list.
I did pipe up a oil pressure gauge at the head, and once its warm i'm only getting about 5-7 psi on my gauge at idle. I think the Bentley says 25psi at 2000rpm. The engine has new intermediate shaft bearings but I did use the old oil pump, which was withing spec. Maybe my oil filter is already clogged with bits of shop towels, dirt and dust. Is that a possibility? What should I bee seeing for oil pressure during normal driving.
That is pretty low for a warm idle.
...but I've seen worse.
Did you swap a new seal into the bottom of the vacuum pump.
It wraps around the end of the oil pump shaft,
I think that oil goes right into the vacuum pump so you'd only be stopping the flow that slips past the seal, but I've seen some pretty stiff seals.
At first I didn't even know there was a seal there,
black and so solid, they looked like metal.
My first suspect would be loose cam clearances.
They need to be pretty tight.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
Could you elaborate a little more on the cam clearances, I was going to guess but I don't want to sound dumb. What should I do now... I'm very discouraged, but it's my first rebuild, live and learn I guess. I was more worried about my turbo rebuild, which seems to be fine. Where should I go from here?
The cam doesn't have bearings that can be replaced.
I think the clearances are 1 ta 2 thou someone correct me if I am wrong.
You can be 3 pretty easily.
Last time; I just took a file to the cam cap, pretty easy to remove 1or 2 thou.
Did you plasti gauge the cam?
I have a rebuild in the project fora, not sure about the title but it's the black GTi diesel.
After the rebuild it had low oil pressure.
I removed the valve cover and ran the oil pump with a drill, it poured out around the cam.
Head was bent straight and line bored,.. well they line bored it again; and the pressure went back to normal.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
Did you replace the intermediate shaft bearings and did you plastigage your rod/main bearings or at least measure them to know that the journals and bearings were manufactured correctly?
Everybody else lists their cars here - but not me.
I didn't plastigauge the rods and mains but I did measure them with a micrometer and they were within spec for standard size bearings, I'm going to use the plastigauge to measure the cam clearences.
I have been working on this car quite a bit lately.
I plasti-gauged my mains and rods and everything is good.
I was suspicious of my cheap Chinese main and rod bearings so I ordered good replacements along with a new oil pump. Shipping money into this thing.
I have been reading a lot on this forum and others to find out what else might cause low oil pressure, and found that I never sealed my squirters, and that can be a problem.
I sealed them up and while I was in there I swapped oil pumps. Pan back on and poor pressure at normal temp again.... "it must be the bearings"
Pulled the pan for the third time and replaced the bearings and plasti-gauged them again, torqued to specs, oil pump back in, pan back on, go for a drive. Still poor pressure when hot and idling.
So now i'm going to look into that vac pump seal and cam clearances.
My cam bearings were never line bored, I'm a bit curious as to how this works without being able to use a different size bearing. Would you have to replace the caps?
)
. The turbo that I rebuilt spools up nicely and really pushes the car. I still have to get the timing on this pump right on but I'll do that tonight. I have a coolant leak from the hose that connects the water pump to the metal line that feeds the heater core, so there's another thing on the to do list.