1981 1.6D rabbit freshening

[tylernt]

What I would do is this:

Unlock cam and pump and rotate to TDC per the flywheel. Loosen the cam sprocket bolt and knock the cam sprocket loose. Rotate the cam (with Vice-grips between lobes) to TDC and insert cam locking tool (including shims if fit is loose), then tighten cam sprocket bolt.

Once the crank and cam are perfectly in time with each other, any remaining error is harmlessly in the injection pump where you can easily compensate by setting the timing on the dial indicator a little advanced or retarded.

I know you already turned it over without interference which may be "close", but I worry that once the engine is up to temperature, the oil is thin (reducing bearing clearance), and the connecting rods/pistons/valves each grow a few millionths of an inch... you might kiss valves at high RPM. I suspect this is the reason the cam sprocket has no keyway and VW wants you to precisely time the cam with every timing belt change.

But maybe I am overly cautious.

[Fatmobile]

Don't leave the injection pump pin in while tightening the tensioner.
The injection pump timing has nothing to do with the crank/cam timing so doesn't need to be involved in the process.
It holds the belt in place,.. but not the proper place for cam/crank timing,.. just to get the injection pump timing in the general area.

I've never used one,.. but hear it causes problems like this.

[the vegenator]

Tylernt, good idea/method. These tips will come in handy when I get to timing.

Speaking of... is there any easy method to lock the crank in place when I go to bolt the head onto the block?

[Fatmobile]

I've heard there is a tool that screws into the timing hole and a bolt in the center tightens down on the flywheel.

[bigger daddy]

I've heard there is a tool that screws into the timing hole and a bolt in the center tightens down on the flywheel.

I have heard about this tool I am very interested in locating/ fabbing one up. In theory it sounds essential in the MK1 world

But what I need is some good or decent vinyl die anybody out there got a good supplier with a match to the red/maroon interior

[the vegenator]

I'd certainly like a locking tool as well.

I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the proper build-up procedure, since my flywheel isn't a stock diesel flywheel and I'm not sure of the TDC mark on it. I have an engine stand and would like to build the engine from the bottom up, but I'd also like to have the flywheel on while the head is off, so I can try and mark TDC somehow.

Seems like the only real way to do this would be to bolt up the pressure plate and flywheel, then the transmission, then put #1 at TDC and make a mark on the flywheel through the inspection hole. Any simpler way would require special tools, right? At least if I go through the trouble of doing this then I'll have piece of mind with the correct TDC mark, and then be able to build everything up on the stand.

[82vdub]

I think locating TDC without the transmission would be pretty straightforward. If the head is off, you can locate TDC by using a gauge to determine proper TDC. If the head is on, using the method for locating TDC I described in the first post here: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=10462&start=60 you could set the engine at TDC, or very close to it (I got really good at getting the timing mark within 1/8-1/4" from TDC just by aligning the bolt holes in my crank pully straight up the cylinder bore). The hole in the transmission with the mark that you align the flywheel is just the centerline of the cylinder bore. So, scribe a line on the block from the center of the crankshaft straight up the centerline of the cylinder bore. When you install your flywheel, the TDC mark on the flywheel should be true with that scribe line you created. If the head is off and you got TDC with a dial gauge and your TDC mark is off on the flywheel, then you can properly mark the flywheel for true TDC location.

[bigger daddy]

Progress has been slow this summer but its almost finished!

The New:
Entire Suspension (GTI)
Fuel tank and all lines
Brake system from front to the new discs in the rear
Rear wiring harness
Steering rack etc
TT exhaust
Heater core
Radiator

The Rebuilt:
1.5 CK (rings and bearings)
Cyl Head
ARP studs
Seals and throwout Brng
Clutch
107AG pump
Injectors

The Need to do:
Battery
a couple of misc hoses
Headliner and Pillars
Recheck all timing
Re install the interior
New tires

Then hopefully
IT WILL RUN!!!

[groundfighter1]

Hopefully pictures soon?

[bigger daddy]

Hopefully I can do the headliner and pillars this weekend. I would also like to put the dash back in. I re-dyed it and I think it turned out great. If it gets some work this weekend I will post interior work shots

[bigger daddy]

It has been awhile but it was warm yesterday so I thought I'd have a go of it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoKQx_HB ... yer_popout

[bigger daddy]

New pump from Jack on the way

[bigger daddy]

New pump on purchased from here timed the way Jack said and it runs great but no power at all. It is a 1.5 with an FN transmission 5 spd. it is timed at 1.01 per instructions. I know this car can do a little more

[tylernt]

New pump on purchased from here timed the way Jack said and it runs great but no power at all. It is a 1.5 with an FN transmission 5 spd. it is timed at 1.01 per instructions. I know this car can do a little more

When you figure it out I'd like to know. The 1.6 turbo I put in my Jetta couldn't go above 35MPH. I turned the fuel screw in until it smokes but it's still pretty weak.

[bscutt]

The pump I got from Jack's rebuilder I had to turn the fuel screw in a turn or two but otherwise the timing worked out pretty well with a little trial and error. Don't be too conservative about turning the fuel screw in if you don't seem to have adequate power. I do not know how they set it during the rebuild but I'll guess that it's an approximation.