Seized Engine

[CarlosA]

Hey Guys,

Wanted to see what sort of steps those with more experience have taken to fix or rebuild a seized engine. I don`t have one yet, but it's something I may have to deal with.

What is usually necessary to get one running again? I assume at the very least rings & bearings, and then figuring out what failed in the first place to cause it.. Would like to hear what everyone has encountered.

[bscutt]

I guess it depends on how it got seized in the first place. If it's rusted from sitting that's anywhere from lots of soaking with various penetrating oils or compounds to busting out seized pistings with a sledge hammer and reboring the engine.

[bscutt]

OK, so I'm back from my interruption:
So if it was seized but recoverable (I've had some stuck but got them loose with ATF in the cylinders) I would change the oil and any other fluids and check for compression. If good, I would crank the engine to get the oil pressure up with the coil (or injection pump solenoid) disconnected. Then see if it would fire up (of course new spark plugs and such on a gasser engine would have been done first).

If things looked bad a complete teardown and rebuild with hone or rebore as needed, nenw rings, bearings, etc., valve job

Now if you are working on a diesel engine that lost a timing belt the route would all be different. Pull the head, check for valve and piston damage, repair as necessary.

I guess I'm curious where you are going with this question.

[CarlosA]

Thanks for the replies. I'm looking at a diesel rabbit that was driving when the engine seized. No explanation yet of whether it was run low on oil, etc.

[82vdub]

When looking at it to buy, I'd assume that the engine is a total loss, when figuring price. When you get it home and start looking at things, maybe it can be saved, and maybe not. To rebuild an engine that's been siezed (to me) is no different then rebuilding an engine that worn. You disassemble and note each parts condition, and replace/machine the parts as needed to get it back to within spec. Typically, new pistons, rings, rod/main/intermediate bearings, gaskets, timing belt, water pump, external belts, motor mounts, oil pump (maybe??) and block plugs. But let the condition of the parts tell you what needs to be replaced.

[CarlosA]

Ok, makes sense. Just sealed the deal on a 1979 2 door with no rust issues for $450. It really is in good shape and the guy just ran it out of oil. Entire engine was rebuilt 40k ago, as well as lots of other things replaced. Only downside IMO is that he ran it on WVO sometimes, not too much but to me that means the pump will need some attention. Nothing too bad though.

[bscutt]

Well as much as I like the 79 (if it's a German model with round headlights), the stock 1500 engine if seized would best be replaced with a good 1.6.

If that 1.5 was run out of oil I would suspect that rod bearings and main bearings are pretty messed up and then the crank along with them.

Good luck with it, $450 for a nice 2 door is a decent price, especially if you can get your hands on a replacement engine cheap.

[CarlosA]

Cool, it does have a 11mm 1.6l now. I do have some spare pistons IF the cyl walls havent been bored out much, and if they are not ovalled, etc. I think for the money i`m happy even if I need to find a new block and start over. I will update this thread once I pull the pan (then head) and see how everything looks.

It's too bad it was rebuilt not too long ago, but bearings and rings are easy on these. If i`m really lucky I can just run my flex hone through there and be done with it, but I doubt it.

[coke]

I wouldn't waste much time on a 1.6L 11mm block. Find a 12mm block, not prone to the issues that plagued the early 1.5 and 1.6 11mm engines.

[CarlosA]

I wouldn't waste much time on a 1.6L 11mm block. Find a 12mm block, not prone to the issues that plagued the early 1.5 and 1.6 11mm engines.

That's what I hear, would studs negate some of those issues *if* I can`t find another engine?

Of course its very tempting to move towards a TDI swap and do something like this. (one of my favorite reads on rabbits)

[82vdub]

I was going to stud my 12mm block, only to find it was a 1.6L 11mm block. It got studs. If the motor is in good condition and there's no cracks around the bolt holes (magnafluxed by a shop), I'd stud it and use it if you can.

[CarlosA]

I was going to stud my 12mm block, only to find it was a 1.6L 11mm block. It got studs. If the motor is in good condition and there's no cracks around the bolt holes (magnafluxed by a shop), I'd stud it and use it if you can.

Thanks, definitely what i`ll do. Can`t wait to tear into it and see whats up. If it's been bored, etc i`ll definitely try to find a clean standard bore block just for long term's sake. No matter what i`ll be sticking with studs, I have Racewares now but would like to try ARP since they have the allen heads to make it much easier to put the head/manifolds/etc onto the engine.

[fj40dave]

This sounds like a great project!

Get the right motor in there, and tweak the other stuff that probably need attention (brakes/tires/wipers) and your on your way!

[CarlosA]

This sounds like a great project!

Get the right motor in there, and tweak the other stuff that probably need attention (brakes/tires/wipers) and your on your way!

Definitely, i`ll start a project thread once I get some pics of it. Here is one:

[fj40dave]

Cool! That Rabbit looks pretty good for it's age, and potential!

Looking forward to the build thread.