CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

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the vegenator
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CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

Post by the vegenator »

I installed these axles in fall of '09 and have put maybe 15k on them since then, maybe 20. Either way, the outer boots are both torn (pass side is completely torn apart) and when I do a sharp turn - a U on my street, for instance - I hear clicking.

My main concern is how the boots could've failed so soon. I did the axles along with almost everything else in the front end, which I assumed would hold out for 60k+. Could it be my wreckless driving habits in Philly? Could my rack be bad, allowing me to turn more sharply than normal? What else could lead to premature failure?

I don't know if I have it in me to pull the axles and replace the boots, especially if the joints need work. I could buy new axles for $40 each from a big box store and just call it a day, but how much time does this buy me before they fail again?

Would love advice from y'all.
- Mike Harpring

'85 VW Jetta NA Diesel/WVO
CarlosA
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Re: CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

Post by CarlosA »

I did both of mine not too long ago. By the time I was all done replacing the boots I could have replaced the entire axles and everything for a similar cost, via ebay. It was also crazy messy and time consuming.

Mine were rumbling a little when coasting. It never developed into the clicking during turning. From what I have seen while researching mine I found that once they start clicking they are usually worn out enough to need replacement.
the vegenator
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Re: CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

Post by the vegenator »

yeah i might just replace them then. I've never seen boots that torn - not even with the previous axles which I replaced with these.
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CarlosA
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Re: CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

Post by CarlosA »

Yeah, really seems the newer boots are not nearly as good of quality as OEM were. I was hoping to save two of my original vw boots but they had hairline cracks starting.
82vdub
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Re: CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

Post by 82vdub »

You've got to ask what you're buying for a $40 axle when OEM boots will cost you $15 and OEM CV's will cost you $75+. I've always serviced my CV's by freshening them up with new grease and a boot when the boot splits or gets close to splitting. I doubt it's anything you did. Cheap boots will not last that long. A clicking CV means it's junk.
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Flynn
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Re: CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

Post by Flynn »

I've been having trouble with CV boots lately. Is your car lowered at all? Since lowering mine it seems to eat the CV boots, mainly the inner ones. I never even clean the CV joints I just dump some new grease in with the old grease, I can't stand the job because the grease gets absolutely everywhere!
the man 53
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Re: CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

Post by the man 53 »

It is the new rubber. The boots, especially the cheap ones we can get online and the chain parts stores aren't any good. I put a set of a1 cardone on and 4 months later when I had to mess with the clutch and take them off they were cracked and almost letting grease out. The only good is the cardone have a lifetime warranty, but you still have to keep changing them. I have read somewhere there is a online parts house in AZ that has good boots but are pricey.
the vegenator
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Re: CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

Post by the vegenator »

If anything my car is a bit higher than most. Maybe bigger tires. I'll just go with the lifetime warranty big box axles. Knowing how to replace axles doesn't mean I enjoy doing it every few years.

Looking on the bright side, I guess it makes for a good time to do a more thorough inspection.
- Mike Harpring

'85 VW Jetta NA Diesel/WVO
damac
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Re: CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

Post by damac »

Same crap happened to me a few weeks ago. Heard a wierd noise when turning, not clicking and when looking under the car found the drivers side axle boot ripped away from the clamp area, and rubber cracking and breakdown worse than I have seen on old original junkyard cars.

My jetta is stock suspension and that is around 25,000 miles or so, less than 2 years. This time I got a replacement from autozone for cheaper with a warranty I can atleast exercise locally in case something happens again. I have learned to dislike dealing with warranties on internet ordered parts like axles due to downtime.
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the vegenator
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Re: CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

Post by the vegenator »

Set out to replace my axles today. Got the old ones out no problem, but while attempting to put the new PS axle in, the outer joint somehow fell apart. I've replaced axles before but never had anything like this happen ... maybe this is what they warn against in explaining how to prevent damage to the joint? I dunno, the outer joint just popped off the axle spline... figured that shouldn't happen so easily:

Image

Anything I can do short of getting a new axle?
- Mike Harpring

'85 VW Jetta NA Diesel/WVO
TylerDurden
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Re: CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

Post by TylerDurden »

I'd return it.

Might be one of those "friday at five" rebuilds.
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82vdub
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Re: CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

Post by 82vdub »

I'd return it too. However, I will say that if you bend the outer CV just a tad too far, the balls will fall out.
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Fatmobile
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Re: CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

Post by Fatmobile »

It doesn't look like there is a wireclip in the groove on the axle.
That's what holds the outer CV on the axle.
Could probably take the one off your old one, if you didn't give it to them as a core.

Nice to keep a couple stub axles around in case you need to tow or move a car without axles/engine.
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Quantum-man
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Re: CV axle fail? torn boots, slight clicking

Post by Quantum-man »

Further to Fatmobile's comment; look inside the hub for the missing clip.

If it is not there, then it was forgotten by the rebuilder.
If it is there clean it and inspect it for damage.
If it is marked excessively then it is old...

Check that the clip is not still in the groove.
If it is under all that 'mud' then it may simply not have been passed over by the hub, as this requires a sharp tap with a mallot, and the working for peanuts assembler is a monkey :roll:
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