Problems Starting after Head Gasket

[avocado]

Too advanced could take injection out of high compression area, resulting in your symptoms. Be inventive try 0.8mm or lower... What are your injectors set to ?

I was wondering if that might be the case. I don't have a dial gauge handy - I have the adaptor, but the gauge is in another state - but I'll look into doing this next.

Injectors are new from Jack, but I haven't pop tested them as I don't have a tester, so I'm not sure what they're set at.

[avocado]

If it was running ok before, and all you changed was the head gasket, then I would think you put the belt back on one tooth off. Even with the pump locked, there is still enough movement to do this. Also, you could have moved the crankshaft when putting the belt back on, its easy to do.

Yeah, I'm afraid this is what I might have done. The pistons aren't kissing the valves, which is a good thing, but I'm still concerned that I might have also screwed up the crankshaft and cam positioning. I'm going to track down any air leaks first though before I worry too much about that.

One trick I got in the habit of doing before removing a timing belt is to put a drop of paint across the face of a pulley tooth and corresponding belt tooth on all 3 pulleys, with the flywheel notch exactly at tdc. Then all the marks have to line up exactly on reassembly.

Good tip. I used to do this, but took a short cut this time and am paying for it, unfortunately.

[Quantum-man]

Too advanced could take injection out of high compression area, resulting in your symptoms. Be inventive try 0.8mm or lower... What are your injectors set to ?

I was wondering if that might be the case. I don't have a dial gauge handy - I have the adaptor, but the gauge is in another state - but I'll look into doing this next.

Injectors are new from Jack, but I haven't pop tested them as I don't have a tester, so I'm not sure what they're set at.

OK,
Here's a little trick invented by me but claimed by another to be his

Put your engine at say 45 degrees BTDC and remove gauge plug. Insert a bolt that you have marked with a file towards one edge like a clock hand. finger tighten till you hit piston. A blunt point ground on the end of bolt helps.
Note orientation, then unscrew one turn.
Gently advance engine until you feel bolt. That is 39 thou, or 1mm advance. Use a piece of card etc to align pointer to other timing marks. This method is actually potentially more accurate than a gauge, no moving gear lash, and 1 degree represents 0.003 mm... Indirectly why I got banned from the GTD site

[avocado]

Here's a little trick invented by me but claimed by another to be his

Put your engine at say 45 degrees BTDC and remove gauge plug. Insert a bolt that you have marked with a file towards one edge like a clock hand. finger tighten till you hit piston. A blunt point ground on the end of bolt helps.
Note orientation, then unscrew one turn.
Gently advance engine until you feel bolt. That is 39 thou, or 1mm advance. Use a piece of card etc to align pointer to other timing marks. This method is actually potentially more accurate than a gauge, no moving gear lash, and 1 degree represents 0.003 mm... Indirectly why I got banned from the GTD site
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Oh, that's great! Thanks...I'll try that once I get the leaks sorted out.