Torque Wrench

[dleesel]

This may be a silly question but I'll just throw it out there. Do I really need a torque wrench? I plan on doing most of the maintenance on my n/a mk2 golf and currently i'm in the middle of changing out both cv axles. I've seen some people on some other forums just saying to crank the bolts hard and there is no need for a torque wrench. I suppose I can understand for cv axles but if I plan on keeping the vehicle should I invest in one? Just to mention, I'm sure I can borrow one from a friend of mine but I don't want to do that very often either. Borrow cause I won't need it very often? Or buy because its going to get some use?

Thanks guys

[82vdub]

Yes, you should own a torque wrench, and probably two of them. The 3/8" drive for the smaller jobs, and 1/2" drive for the larger jobs. However, I've never torqued my CV bolts, and the axle nut I've just put a pipe on my wratchet and tightened it as hard as I can. Maybe you can squeak by for now without one, but I'd plan on getting one (or two) at some point.

[dleesel]

I figured, I suppose its the price of them that have me wondering if I can get by without it.

[82vdub]

They are expensive, but I wouldn't do a lot of work on an engine without one. I've been wrenching (general) on cars for decades without the use of a torque wrench on most items. But when it comes to precision things (like engines), I use them. One though, could clearly argue that a VW was a precision vehicle and specialty tools should be used, but .................

[Prairieview]

Day-to-day maintenance....no.
However, the phrase regarding other people to tell you about "cranking the bolts hard," now THAT is troubling.

There is this thing called common sense. I usually manage to buy stuff from guys who lacked common sense. ALWAYS makes my life miserable trying to work on something they have touched.

Do you have a rather light hand and judge torque values quite well? Then proceed.

[Fatmobile]

If you are talking the big nut you can sort of guess your weight and stand a foot or so from the end of the breaker bar.

The inner CV bolts just tighten until they stop turning. Imortant part is to check them after driving for awhile and before any long trips.
Rarely happens but sometimes they will back out.

Oh yeah, don't get a clicker torque wrench. Temperature messes with their calibration. They are fussy.
Best if calibrated then always used in a temperature controlled shop.

Get the cheap beam style.

[dr. no]

Or get both and check the clicker (which is much more convenient to use...) against the beam. I think I got both at Harbor Freight. Inside the engine, a torque wrench is a necessity.

[ad]

Get one. Its a good investment, especially if you dont have a good feel for torque yet.

One thing about VW's is that you often have steel bolts in aluminum holes. Over torquing can tear out an aluminum thread real quick.
Diesels also vibrate a lot, and an under-torqued bolt can easily become a missing bolt.

There are some fasteners that require a torque wrench, and some where "tight enough" is OK.
Anything with a bearing (cam, main, and rod caps, wheel bearings) and your cylinder head bolts should be torqued accurately. All your clutch components as well.

Alternator and other mounting brackets torque is not as critical.

[dleesel]

Found one! Was in my local Norther Tool & Equipment and they had their brand torque wrench for sale. Lifetime Waranty both Left and Right 1/2 Inch 20 to 150lb for (drum roll) $23. If you have a Northern Tool close to you...you may want to check it out.

Btw, the axle nut on my mk2 golf is a 30mm correct?

[Prairieview]

Great! You should be within 15 to 25 lbs from where you want to be! Mission accomplished.

[TylerDurden]

Btw, the axle nut on my mk2 golf is a 30mm correct?

30mm is common, but they vary... So do the axle flange diameters, so best to check what u got.

[Fatmobile]

Found one! Was in my local Norther Tool & Equipment and they had their brand torque wrench for sale. Lifetime Waranty both Left and Right 1/2 Inch 20 to 150lb for (drum roll) $23. If you have a Northern Tool close to you...you may want to check it out.

Btw, the axle nut on my mk2 golf is a 30mm correct?

I do like to have a 3/8" drive torque wrench too.
It doesn't go as high so the marks are farther apart, also more accurate at lower values.

[vwtyp133]

* Yes * to most of the above comments re. needing a torque wrench, as well as the warnings on calibration.

It's good to be able to check your torque wrenches' calibrations now & then. My SnapOn (1977) and Craftsman (1967) torque wrenches have both been trouble-free, and their calibrations always agreed when checked at a variety of settings. But I sent the SnapOn, in anyway, for calibration only. The SOBs sent it back to Kenosha to have it "rebuilt"! Many months and about $120 later, it was returned... and it still agrees with my Craftsman wrench! So I'd advise checking your torque wrenches against a good local source of reference, and treat these babies with respect.

If you want a 'clicker' type, Home Depot seems to have fair quality; at least my HD 3/8" 0-100 lb/ft unit (2003) agrees with the SnapOn & Craftsman. Just lube the ratcheting mechanism on any new 'clicker'. A typical 'clicker' is most accurate at mid-scale & up, but can be a bit "iffy" at the lower 1/4 of its range. That's kind of a b***h when, as mentioned above, you're running a steel bolt into aluminum components, good reason to also have 3/8" 0-75 or 0-100 lb/ft, and even 1/4" inch-pound wrenches on hand.

As far as the Harbor Freight 'clickers', I have one by the spare tire in each of my aluminum-wheeled vehicles; the manufacturers lug torque settings are lettered on the outside of each case. They seem close enough for that, but I'd never trust them for engine work.

Beam & pointer styles are good, but don't allow for accurate viewing of the scale in many vehicular situations. It's kinda nice to check "breakaway" torque with them on teardowns, however, since most 'clicker' wrench manufacturers today forbid using those wrenches for breakaway readings. Anyone know why? IDK

Don't drop 'em; don't tighten past the "click"; loan them out very selectively, if at all! OK, that's this old fart's 2 cents worth on the subject.