injection pump shaft bushings

[300Dman]

Back in 1975-1980 I worked in a Fuel Injection Shop. However, there was no VE Fuel Injection Pumps coming into our Shop back then.

I have a 6 Cylinder Volvo Diesel with a VE Fuel Injection Pump and am changing the Seal and ordered New Shaft Bushings not knowing that the Bushings needed to be reamed!!!

After I worked in the Fuel Injection Shop I got a job at a Navel Ship Yard in the Diesel Shop. We actually rebuilt Oil and other Pumps that were driven by the Engines and as a result of that I have a lot of experience Reaming things. However, we had the correct Reamers for the Job.

The way it was done there is where there was 2 Bushings on a Shaft.
Both Bushings were removed.
One Bushing was pressed in and the on the other end there was a Special Guide Made that slid into the bushingless Bore to guide the Reamer. The idea of the Guide was that you reamed the New Bushing centered to the Bore of the Pump and not centered on the Bore of the Bushing. The reason for that is not all bushings have a precision undersized Bore to start of on.

The single Bushing was Reamed and the Reamer Blades pass out or the Bushing and the Rear of the Shaft slide into the Bushing. The Rear Shaft was a perfect fit to the Bushing.
The Guide was removed and the last Bushing was pressed or knocked in and you advanced the Reamer and cut through it and the rear shaft of the Reamer kept the Reamer Centered.

Also I was looking at the dimensions listed in the previous post. Do you need the Bushing inside diameter of .001" to be larger than the Shaft or do you need .001 Clearance on each side of the Shaft?
If you need .001" Clearance on each side of the Shaft then the Bushing Bore needs to be .002" larger than the Shaft.

This is my first Post and I am trying to attach a picture. The picture is of an expansion Reamer. The Expansion Reamer is adjustable but with some types the center of ther Reamer Cutting area is what swells and expands and that makes the Cuts more gradual an less chance of chatter.

[300Dman]

I tore a pump completely apart to replace the shaft bushings,
made a special tool for pulling the old bushings but the camera and new tool aren't in the same place right now.

I sent it in to have the shaft polished and bushings sized.
Went to pick it up and the shaft felt a little sloppy. He explained that the shaft had some runout and it's hard to line bore it or reem it at a taper.
From what I've read; it's supposed to be .001" clearance. He said he took off about .0035 from the bushings.
Not much room to play there...sooo I suppose a straight shaft is a good place to start. Maybe we could reem one bushing then install the second bushing and reem it to the smaller diameter of the less worn area.... I'll have to see which area was worn the most.
This is the first pump I've rebuilt from the bushings up and I'm already learning$$$.

At this site the guy reamed the Bushing to 17mm. If you subtract the Shaft Size from 17mm that is a bit more than .001 Clearance.
"The injection pump that came with this engine had a lot of shaft wear and this is probably the reason that it ended up for sale. It will suck a lot of air into the pump instead of fuel, it causes hard starts and loss of power.
It has two bushings in it that are about 3/4" apart. I made an one piece bushing out of bronze, pressed it in and machined it close to the size that it has to be, then reamed it to its final size.(17 mm on this pump)"

He has a pic someplace in His Blog showing the Injection Pump Housing in a Lathe and the Reamer in the Tail Stock of the Lathe.
http://vanagonsyncroproject-herman.blog ... ction+Pump

Towards the Bottom was a Pic of the actual reaming
viewtopic.php?t=7993

I believe that reaming by hand with no guides usually resulte in a hole larger than the Reamer size.

Comments welcome

[Fatmobile]

Thanks for posting in this thread. It's been awhile since it's been bumped.
I have reamed a few more bushings since and the hand reamer has been working great.
.001" is the total clearance or difference between the shaft width and the bore of the bushings.
No less than that. I have reamed them too tight.
Thought I could do it by feel, but I wasn't calibrated properly. Pump gets real hot real fast. I was expecting no side-to-side play but it should spin freely,.. that wasn't good enough. Now I measure but can feel a very slight side-to-side along with spinning freely when it's reamed the proper diameter. The shaft is very handy for telling when you are getting close and it's time to start measuring
Now on the last few passes I don't expand the reamer.
With a small shaft like that; 1.5 thou feels too loose.

I was worried about the reamer aiming straight through, that's why I used the high pressure head for a guide.
Hadn't thought about how centered it would be. Figured the reamer would remove the same from each side and the bushings were symetrical to begin with. If I get a chance I'll check the next one I do.

[300Dman]

Thanks for posting in this thread. It's been awhile since it's been bumped.
I have reamed a few more bushings since and the hand reamer has been working great.
.001" is the total clearance or difference between the shaft width and the bore of the bushings.
No less than that. I have reamed them too tight.
Thought I could do it by feel, but I wasn't calibrated properly. Pump gets real hot real fast. I was expecting no side-to-side play but it should spin freely,.. that wasn't good enough. Now I measure but can feel a very slight side-to-side along with spinning freely when it's reamed the proper diameter. The shaft is very handy for telling when you are getting close and it's time to start measuring
Now on the last few passes I don't expand the reamer.
With a small shaft like that; 1.5 thou feels too loose.

I was worried about the reamer aiming straight through, that's why I used the high pressure head for a guide.
Hadn't thought about how centered it would be. Figured the reamer would remove the same from each side and the bushings were symetrical to begin with. If I get a chance I'll check the next one I do.

Please note I spell badly and arthritic fingers also hit the wrong Keys or the letter shows up someplace else in the word.
Besides the http://vanagonsyncroproject-herman.blog ... ction+Pump Thread that has 17mm as the size I also ask Hansimports/Prothe (eBay name)/Rothenbacher enterprises (spelling?). I believed are all owned by the Same Person. He also said the Bushings are reamed to 17mm
So I bought a 17mm Reamer Hand Reamer and it is supposed to arrive in 4 Days.

I do know that there has to be some Clearance/Play between the Shaft and the Bushings to allow for lubrication and Expansion of the Shaft. So I don't see how there could be no play in the shaft unless when it is assmbled the Several Springs up front pusing against that Shaft make it hard to fell any side play.
I only know what the Shaft feels like with worn out Bushings.

I measured the new uninsalled Bushing and found out it is not round. One part of the Seam where the ends meet on the Bushing is higher than the other. When it is insalled I guess it will return to being round but I have not gotten hat far.

Old Rear most Bushing still installed in the Housing Inside Diameter= 0.8339” and 0.8320/ 17mm = 0.66929
Old inner Bushing still in the housing Inside diameter= 0.6700”, 0.6697”, 0.6700”, 0.6672”. 17mm = 0.66929. So the Inner Bushing is not as far off spec.
I have to Volvo VE Pumps. I am not experimenting with the one that came off of the Car I am experimenting with one I bought on Ebay. The Measuerments are from that one. Also the Rear Shaft on that Pump showed signs of overheating and as you see the Rear Bearing is badly worn. Inside the Pump by the Vane Pump there is some Metal to Metal wear that looks like the Pump must have turned a lot when the Pump was dry as the Steel is scared.

When I get the Reamer I am going to make some sort of guide for the Reamer.
I have a Metal Cutting Lathe if I need to use it to make the Reamer Guide. I am not skilled enough to do like the Vanagon guy did and I ordered a Hand Reamer and not one that would fit into the Lathe Tail Stock.

I also want to try something else. I am going to press the Busings into the Pump Housing Ream the and see if they can be removed from that Housing and installed in the actual Vehicle Pump Housing.
I want to see if that is possible to do.

I have been searching the Internet trying to see some pics of what the Real Bosch Tools for the Job look liked but have found nothing. Nore have I found any place else that verifys the 17mm Bearing ID.

I also need to check if the overheated Shaft is actually bent.

[Fatmobile]

The reamers I've used are adjustable. I don't know if a 17mm reamer will get you there.
Interesting to see how much the old bushings were worn, I've never checked that.

[300Dman]

A friend brought over some tools she was trying to sell.
Happened to be some adjustable reamers in the nice wooden box. One of them seems to be the right size, just large enough. Says 19/32 - 21/32 and is almost not big enough.
There was also a micrometer; Starrett #230 in the box so I checked the shaft. There was no runout.
There was also this little tool that looked like a very small sledge hammer. Turn the handle and the spring loaded head pops outward. I think it's for checking bores. Put it in the bore and the spring presses the head against the side, tighten the handle and it stays there so you can measure it.
The outside bushing was bored to .0015 bigger than the shaft.
The inner bushing was bored to .0025 bigger than the shaft.
He didn't bore the bushings evenly.
Sounds like it wasn't supposed to be bored anyway,.. so now I have a reamer, bore measuring device and micrometer... oh and there was a fat T-handle in the box.
There is a sleave that goes with the reamer, looks like it's for keeping the reamer alligned.
I might bore a larger center hole in an injection pump head and bolt it to the aluminum body to keep the reamer straight without having to think about it.
I haven't found any good info on how to use an adjustable reamer, other than what was posted here.

I think that concerning the adjustable Reamers the might be some sites on the internet that dea with it in a general manner.
If you look on eBay and other places you will see sets of Adjustable Reamers with a longer guide Rod and that have sort of a double tapered Cone that slides on that rod. The Cone is to center the opposite end. This is simlar to the manner that was used where I worked where we did a lot of reaming of the Bushings on Oil Pump Shafts on large Diesel Engines.

The Reamer and the Bushing are on one end and the Guide with no Bushing are on the other end the Taperd Guide is shoved into the Bore to center the Guide Rod and the Reamer is advanced through and cutting the Bushing on one end. I theory that means the Bushing you Cut is now centered to the Bore.
Everthing is removed and the Bushing on the other end is installed and the Reamer is inserted in that end with the Guide Rod sticking througn the already Reamed Bushing and the tapered Collar is again slide in to center the Guide Rod and that Bushing is Reamed.
A variation of that was instead of using the Cone a spepecial Guide was machined that goes into the already bored Bearing.
The bugger here is after reaming the last bushing you need to be careful pulling the Reamer back through that already bored bushing.

If the Bearing bore accurate but undersized and is already there and you are enlarging the diameter as has previously been said about adusting the Reamer Blades to cut a bit and continueing that till you get the size seems logical.

[300Dman]

I am posting this partial information since I was re-reading this thread to see if I missed something.

In the Vangon thread the Guy said He reamed with a 17mm Reamer. I bought a 17mm Reamer and while it is difficult to measure the diameter of the blades I was sure that the diameter was larger than 17mm so I did not won’t to rush in and ream the Bushings.

I scrounged up a scrap piece of an Aluminum Cylinder that I had and chucked that up in My Lathe Chuck and drilled it out with a 5/8” Drill. That was enough for the reamers taper to get started in.
This was a Hand reamer so it could not go directly into the Lathe Tail Stock but it has a Center Drilled Hole on the end so I used a Center on the Tail Stock to support the end and I advanced the Tail Stock as I reamed.

What I ended up with was an hole that had 0.0034” total Clearance compared to the Shaft. So for a Hand Reamer that was better support the there would be if the job was done by hand. If the Hole had come out to exactly 17mm there would have been 0.0013” total shaft Clearance and that would have been nice.
17mm = 0.66929 (ENCO listed the size of a 17mm Reamer Size .6693) and the Actual Shaft Old Volvo = 0.668

The 0.0034” hole in the Aluminum Cylinder has a total Clearance compared to the Shaft (that exhibits side play on the Shaft) and it is better than the 0.008+ total Clearance that I have on the Rear the Bearing on one of the Pumps.

But as I have said I have not reamed out the real bushings.

I think that what is needed is for someone that has bought a New Pump Housing with the Bearings already installed and reamed from the Bosch Factory to measure them to see what they are really supposed to be.

[Fatmobile]

Yeah, my reamers have the tapered guides that slides part way into the high pressure head I use as a tail guide. This keeps the tail centered.

I don't know if a factory spec would be any help. Kind of like pistons, each cylinder is bored to match a piston not some standard number.

The tool they most often use is a "pin bore" or something close to that. The bosch service center didn't have one and sent me to another shop. I do a better job with my reamers than the machinist with the pin borer I brought it to. I think stones can leave grit in the bushings that a reamer won't.

[300Dman]

Yeah, my reamers have the tapered guides that slides part way into the high pressure head I use as a tail guide. This keeps the tail centered.

I don't know if a factory spec would be any help. Kind of like pistons, each cylinder is bored to match a piston not some standard number.

The tool they most often use is a "pin bore" or something close to that. The bosch service center didn't have one and sent me to another shop. I do a better job with my reamers than the machinist with the pin borer I brought it to. I think stones can leave grit in the bushings that a reamer won't.

I am going to go off subject for a bit.

There is nothing wrong with a Pin Boring Machine. The Problem is that with no specification the Machinist has to guess. Machinist are not used to Marching Fuel Injection Parts so they have no idea of the Tolerances needed. So the Machinist is going Machine to a tolerance that He/She knows is not going to seize up your Shaft.
There is a Machinist Guide that has Shaft Sizes and Shaft Materials and generic clearances needed. In the Machinist Guide the clearances are also listed by what lubrication is going to be uses. Normally that is Grease or some sort of Oil
I doubt if the Machinist Guide has a clearance for Diesel Fuel in the Guide because that is not a common Lubricant. Meaning that there is going to be no clearances listed for Diesel Fuel.

Concerning the Car Piston and Block Bores. When I used to have Gasoline Engines re-bored they Automotive Machinist only ask for one Piston to go by. They set the Boring Bar up and the whole Block is going to be bored the same size. They did the same on My Volvo Diesel when I rebuilt the Block.

And, those Guys hate to bore something to the smallest Inside Diameter. Apparently the commonly used equipment is not extremely accurate.

The place I took the Volvo Diesel block is a Place that rebuilds High End Euro Cars. The typical Auto Machine Shop has a Boring Bar that sits on top of the Cylinder Block and Camps Mechanically or Magnetically to the Cylinder head.

The Euro Car place had a huge Machine; somewhat like a large Milling Machine that the whole Block rested on a Steel Mandrel that went through the Main Bearings. Much more precision and did not have to deal with measurements being thrown off by the top of the Block being warped like the Boring Bar that sits on the top of the block does.


I frequently used a (Tobin) Pin Boring Machine when I worked in the Diesel Shop at the Long Beach Naval Ship Yard (now long closed down).
We used it to bore Connection Rod Bushings. However, no matter what Tool you use you still need specifications. And, for reaming out the Shaft Bushings there seems to be a lack of confirmed specs.

I could set up My Lathe to Bore the Bushing but that would be a tremendously tedious job and I still have no verified specs.

I found an eBay Seller that claims to have a Remanufactured Volvo D24 Fuel Injection Pump. I need to question them about some things.
On the inside of the Fuel Injection Pump I have some considerable rubbing marks where the Roller Pins have rubbed on the inside of the Housing when the Ring turns during the Advance.

So if I do get the Remanufactured I am considering taking it apart with the purpose of finding what the Bushings are really reamed to.

This place sells Pump Housings with the shaft but the Housing is made for a different rotation. The Volvo Pump is drive from the Rear so it rotates opposit of the VW Rabbit Pumps.
Also unlike Stanydyne/Roosamaster Fuel Injection pumps the hole for the Fuel Pressure that acts on the Advance Piston is specifically drilled pre the Rotation of the Fuel Injection Pump.

[300Dman]

I did a better job of Measurering the 17mm Reamer and found that the front part right after the tapered guid was larger than the rear portions of the Reamer.
So the reamer started off as being a bit larger than 17mm to start with.

I also ordered an Expansion Reamer.

[300Dman]

I bought an Old Stock New USA Made Expansion Reamer on eBay for a Total Cost of $17. That is what a new made in China one would cost but shipping would be added.

This item was in the original package and wrapped in Wax Paper and in a Paper Tube So it might have been made back in the 1960s. Has some surface rust spots but entirely functional.

I had worried that it would not expand enough be un-expanded the Bushing starts to get snut. When the Bushing is installed it will be squeezed a little tighter.

Of course the 8 blade Expansion Reamer should provide better guidance than the 4-6 Blade Adjustable Reamer but would work better with a Guide.

[300Dman]

See the pics.

[sgnimj96]

This was my first try, ( and this thread helped me a lot)
I used a 21/32 - 23/32" adjustable reamer http://www.zoro.com/i/G3311673/
Also got the next smaller size adj reamer but never opened it, later returned for refund.
A cool tool to get there also is a telescoping gauge for checking inside diameters, got a cheap set for $20 (you only need the small "B" one) http://www.zoro.com/i/G0738701/ then used my HF digital caliper to measure with.
I had 2 pumps apart when I did it and both shafts measured about 16.96mm , the new bushings (hansauto)measured about 16.63mm.
To keep the tail of the reamer straight I got a plastic lid the exact diameter of the pump housing, drilled a hole exactly in the center of the exact diameter of the tail of the reamer and wedged it in the housing. Super cheesy but I guess it worked.
hazelnut spread lid
Had to modify a socket to fit the square end of the reamer, used a t-handle to turn by hand, pushed the reamer out the front to adjust. As I got close I took the reamer out and kept checking with the shaft would until it finally fit. Has a little bit of play but way better than before.

[Fatmobile]

I got the 1 thou clearance value from a bosch service tech who came on here and helped us in a different thread. One that dissappeared.
He gave us the clearance spec.
I think he was from Zips diesel in St. Cloud, MN.

I probably forgot to mention that when reaming bushings I have the pump bolted into an injection pump bracket that is bolted to the bench.
This holds the pump body solid and allows me to ream vertically with the T-handle. I used to hold it between my knees, ha. This is so much faster.

[sgnimj96]

I probably forgot to mention that when reaming bushings I have the pump bolted into an injection pump bracket that is bolted to the bench.
This holds the pump body solid and allows me to ream vertically with the T-handle. I used to hold it between my knees, ha. This is so much faster.

I'll try that when I do another, thanks!
Doing it sideways with the vice I'm sure added some gravity wobble to the reamer that I had to work against. It was a spare pump, kind of for practice, but seems to run pretty good... belt tracks right in the middle of the sprocket, Made sure to NOT overtighten the belt this time .