I am about ready to give up on Jetta timing belt

[nate_o]

I am racking me feeble brain trying to figure out why my timing belt is not tracking right. It wants to stick over edge about 1/8" on crank pulley. If I were to bolt on acc. pulley with belt hanging over it would tear up belt right?
Engine has rebuilt head, rebuilt IP and new tension adjuster. Using a straight edge between crank and cam pulleys , cam pulley sticks out about 1/16 father then crank. straight edge between cam and IP pulley, cam is about 1/8" farther out then IP.
Not sure if moving head/cam pulley back would help? Is this even possible? Is there enough play in head that if I loosen ARP head studs can I slide head over that much? Any other Ideas???

[Tac]

Is it dual over head cam? Or is it like a 1.6 ME block?

Tom

[nate_o]

Its a 1.6L diesel single cam

[82vdub]

You won't be able to move the head, and if you could, I'd say there would be something wrong with it.

Did you check straightness of the crank to intermediate shaft, and Ishaft to IP?

Does your Ishaft pully have a lip on it, or is it a flat surface without a raised shoulder on it (old one's I believe had the lip and the newer one's didn't)? Maybe you can adjust the IP where it rides more towards the block, and that could move the belt track on the crank towards the block a bit. 100% of these pully's are "fixed" meaning that once they are properly installed, they don't adjust to move the belt tracking, except that you can make slight adjustments by manipulating the IP's position. If the I shaft front bushing is worn and the IP bushing is worn, you could have the tracking get off track from these. I believe that the bracket mounting to the block is essentially a "fixed" positioning as well, but it's possible that you may have to go back to the brackets on the block and try to adjust those until the belt tracks more correctly.

[Fatmobile]

Yep, you'll have to get to the 2 bolts behind the pump loose.
The ones that hold the bracket to the block.
Then lift the rear of the pump and bolt it back down.
Not easy to get to one of them.
If the pump is rebuilt that will put the belt back in the middle of the sprocket.

[Tac]

There is a conical bolt (hope I spelt that right) on the IP underneath the injector lines. Don't forget to loosen it up. I forgot about it on a install one time and broke number two injector line. Totally my fault.

Tom

[vwtyp133]

The lines... a touchy point IMO. Before you start tweaking the IP's position very much, I'd suggest loosening the hard lines a little. Makes the IP position easier to change, and, having personally broken several lines, releasing the tension first seems to help avoid some "Oh, s***t" moments.

[Tac]

I broke the number two line after driving it for about 500 miles. All because of not putting that bolt in under the injection lines. Your right vwtyp133, I don't like loosening the lines but you have to to get the IP to move better.

Good luck
Tom

[damac]

time to get down and dirty and experiment with tracking and that front engine bracket

to make it easier, each time you take the pump off put everything back to tdc so you can put the pump lock in. use clamps in the vital areas to keep the belt from jumping off the crank.

then you can feed the pump back into its previous position to get the keyway lined up. then let torquing the bolt bring it all back into place, and that will let you go nuts with turning the motor over for a while to see how its now tracking.

sadly last time i did this it took a few tries. annoying, but best to do it now. seen them bad enough to leave timing belt dust behind. my first vw diesel and 85 jetta had half a timing belt and I drove it home 100 miles that way and previous owner was driving it that way! Somebody knew something was up because they figerglassed the covers onto the engine at pan and up top! what a mess.

[Quantum-man]

Which of your pulleys have a lip? The cam pulley should be within about 3mm from the tin rear shield

[nate_o]

The intermediate shaft seems to have a lot of play back and forth ( but not up and down) could this be my problem?

[damac]

did you read my last post and follow through?

doesn't sound like a problem with the im shaft to me. they ride up/down on the bearings. at the drivers side of the engine a big gear mates to the vacuum pump so it rocks a little bit in/out.

[nate_o]

demac I did shim the front engine plate (bottom rear holes) and that did help. Belt is now sticking out less then 1/16 inch on crank pulley. Noticed while I was doing it that the Int shaft had some back and forth play and thats why I asked the question.

now I have NEW problem. After shimming I reset timing on IP. While putting Timing hole Bolt back into IP I managed to drop bolt and I cant find that sucker ANYWHERE! I also cant find it on any of the usual vw diesel parts places. Anyone know where I can score one?

[TylerDurden]

That's annoying...

I'd call the local diesel/injection shop and see if they have any on the shelf, I'm sure they can get one.

[bscutt]

the thread is 8mm x 1 but not too sure of the length - maybe 10mm on the threads. Probably more important is the fact that there is a shoulder or relief in the head for a crush washer which prevents leaking. FWIW I still have not found the little clip that holds my heater control cable to the valve and it's the same sort of thing. I was there when it fell, it did not hit the ground, and it is just nowhere to be found. Hope you find yours.