Injection pipes

[Michael]

I exhausted search-term combos and didn't find anything for this subject, so here it is:
I've run through two #2-injector pipes. This time, it's a broken flare-end at the pump - actually the sides of the flare are cracked, won't seal with any amount of torque and drip badly.
Tell me: is this something that you have made or repaired locally; procured solely from an auto-wrecker; purchased from somewhere else?
i haven't found any at local bone-yards or listed in the on-line inventories of auto-parts stores. However, I have seen some postings about using a pipe flaring tool on other owner self-help sites.
I have an extra pipe for #3 and #4; could I bend these someway - perhaps heating them with a blow-torch to help them bend?
Once again, thanx for the help! - Michael, Eugene, Oregon, U.S.A.

[air-cooled or diesel]

I've run through two #2-injector pipes. This time, it's a broken flare-end at the pump - actually the sides of the flare are cracked, won't seal with any amount of torque and drip badly.
.

this can easily happen if you over-tighten unions, these are low-torque unions and rather fragile, about 18ftlbs, they need just enough tightness to seal.
you need a #2 pipe. can be found online, shouldnt be too bad a price.
either you bought 'bad' parts; over-tightening them; or possibly not loosening inj lines After timing(pump). good inj lines dont just split/break normally.

[82vdub]

I have broken fuel line ends by overtightening the fittings. These days I press the fuel line into the port (on the injection pump [IP] or injector) to make sure it's seated squarely and then tighten the fitting. I do this so that when I tighten the fitting, it doesn't pull the fuel line into the port on the IP or injector, and possibly pull it together crooked.

I would also suggest that you look at your mounting bolts for your IP. Typically when you break the #2 line, it's because your IP isn't tight and is moving around. The #2 line has the most bends in it and is the easiest to break. There should be one bolt under the high pressure end of the pump (where the hard lines connect), one on the front and back side of the pump, and a nut that's accessed through the front of the timing belt area through the pully on the IP. So 4 bolts in total. I'm guessing that the one at the high pressure end is loose or missing.

I don't know if you can hand bend lines to work. The factory fuel lines are very thick walled material, and if you just try to bend them, I'm sure they would just break. I don't know if you can use regular brake line to make a line either, or if a flaring tool has the proper flare to it to mate with the ports on the IP or injector. If you can't get it to stop leaking, either change the check valve on your IP that's leaking, or get another injector and replace that. Or, you can see if there's a scratch or crack in the port area (or on the line) to see if there's something that may be wrong.

[Michael]

Thanx for both replies; you both agree on the cause, 'iatrogenic' (doctor-generated!). I'll look for a new set and an extra #2. I'll be lovingly careful with the new ones when I install them, but I must first find them.
Good luck to you all! - MN

[Fatmobile]

What was the cause of the failure of your other #2 line?
If it broke in the middle; there is a stronger #2 available on ebay.
A normal #2 will probably just break again, don't know why it happens on some cars.

[vwtyp133]

Rumor has it that missing line clamps &/or insulators can lead to cracked injector pipes also. Does this seem true, or is it just idle gossip?

Somewhat related question (since I really don't want to trash any lines when I swap for a TD): Which of the injector pipes is different in a 1.6TD vs. a 1.6N.A.?

[surfcam]

I believe this is true.

[Fatmobile]

I've run with a missing clamp for a long time without problem,.. but I don't recommend it,.. I'm going to put a clamp on it some day.
I'm sure #2 TD line is different, bent to go around the aneroid, if you are using a TD pump.
I'm not sure if they changed #1 for the TD pump.