New To Me Diesel Rabbit Won't Start. Ran Fine on Test Drive.

[bscutt]

Nice bunny. Stick with it. Mine has been a rolling restoration for about 12 years now.

[jasons]

We'll see how long my Wife will tolerate it. She rode in it for the 1st time yesterday and I thought she was going to beat the sense out of me!

Side note:
When I test drive this Rabbit it had an awful, violent "bam bam Bam BAm BAM BAM BAM" noise that nearly had me scared to death. I thought the flywheel was coming off! After I got it home and had been messing with it for a few days I found the front left wheel was being held on my a single wheel bolt. That would have made for a fantastic ride!

Replaced a temperature sensor yesterday and now I have a temperature gauge that works.

-Jason

[air-cooled or diesel]

I used a GL-5 75w90.

gl-5 is gear lube isnt it? iirc we take gl-4 its transaxle lube. since when you drained out smootz just a little ago what id do is; get a good trans flush, add, warm her up, *if you can on a trans flush* drive for a good few miles, if you put an engine oil flush its ok to idle/hi idle for 20mins or so, but dont drive. if you can drive on a trans flush id do it for 50-100miles, drain, put in fresh fluid, the syncromesh sounds somewhat promising, you could try that, dont forget to add the proper amount to the speedo opening (on mine its about 0.5L, or about 0.5of a qt). i think you need gl-4 before you drive it too much.

[air-cooled or diesel]

where you at jason?

[jasons]

Looks like I'll be switching to GL-4...75w90, right?
I'm in North Alabama

Added a couple decals to diffuse the obnoxious tail-gaters:



Thanks!
-Jason

[jasons]

How about the Pennsoil Synchromesh?


Pennzoil® Synchromesh Fluid is a manual transmission fluid designed for certain manual transaxles and manual transmissions used by General Motors or Chrysler. Pennzoil® Synchromesh manual transmission fluid is formulated with high-quality paraffinic base stocks, a fluidity modifier, multifunctional performance additives, corrosion inhibitors, a foam suppressor and a shear stable viscosity index improver additive. It provides excellent oxidation stability, low-temperature performance, excellent synchronizer performance and compatibility with yellow metals, such as bronze, brass and copper components found in manual transaxles and transmissions. Synchromesh manual transmission fluid will satisfactorily lubricate General Motors or Chrysler manual transaxles and transmissions from -40 C to +150 C.

[bscutt]

I believe that is the same as the synchromesh we got from the Chevy dealer branded as GM. Probably cheaper than what the dealer charges. I would go for it.

[jasons]

$9/qt at Advance Auto.
I plan on picking up a few quarts and changing the fluid tonight.
Thanks,
-Jason

[air-cooled or diesel]

let us know if theres an improvement in the shifting,
make sure you get gl-4 transaxle fluid, that looks like manual trans fluid, we also have the final drive in the front trans.
maybe a well chosen additive too.

[jasons]

I understand all God's beautiful creatures must tinkle every now and then and that Rabbits are no exception, but I'm really torqued that my Rabbit is peeing it's little heart out in my garage...right now.



Before I began my transmission fluid change, no leaks.
I removed the speedometer cable from the transmission and added some Marvel Mystery Oil to "flush" the transmission. I went out for a gentle, 10 minute ride, came back to the house and put the front end into the air. I drained all the junk and capped the drain hole. I only got 1.5qts into the fill hole, so I capped that and put the remaining 1qt. into the speedometer hole. Now my new (and apparently incorrect) $9/qt fluid is running out of the bell housing.

Good night cruel world.

[jasons]

Most GL5 differential and GL4 Manual Transmission oils contain sulfur-phosphorous EP packages. GL4 does NOT refer to any specific viscosity, but it refers to a level of AW/EP protection for the gearing and bearings in a transmission. GL4-rated oils contain about 40% to 60% of the EP additives that GL5 oils contain.

Both differential and manual transmission fluids use chemical compounds that subdue or inhibit the corrosive effects of sulfur and phosphorous such as calcium, magnesium, boron, potassium or other basic compounds. Emulsifiers, corrosion and rust inhibitors also are included to do their respective jobs.

GL5 differential lubes use friction modifiers to reduce mechanical and fluid friction and add some anti-shudder friction modifier for limited slip, both very different chemical compounds.

Manual Transmission fluids use a different friction modifier for synchro engagement, a modifier that does NOT contain the same Friction Modifier chemicals as differential lubes.

Most manual transmission "specific" fluids (GL4) contain about 40% to 60% of the EP additive of differential lubes (GL5) with inactive or buffered sulphurs. GL4 has come to infer a gear lube with the above percentages of EP additive. The exception of course is ATF fluid used in some of the newer transmissions.

Therefore, both lubes contain the same EP additives, just in different strengths or additive ratios.

Ever since the synchromesh-type fluids appeared on the scene (such as the GM Synchromesh fluid), drivers have had better shifting due to better synchro engagement, attributed to the specialized friction modifier used in these lubes. This specialized friction modifier is better for metallic and composite synchros in terms of shifting and life.

Manual Transmission fluids use a different friction modifier specifically designed for synchro engagement, a modifier that does NOT contain the same chemical compounds as do differential lubes.

A synchromesh fluid usually refers to a specialized fluid that contains special friction modification additives for transmissions that use mechanical synchronizer assemblies; those synchronizer assemblies may be made of carbon fiber composites, sintered metal.

You also have to consider the viscosity of the fluid that the transmission was designed for. The spectrum now ranges from ATF to 75W90 viscosities and therefore a synchromesh GL4 Manual Transmission Lubricant (MTL) can be any viscosity from 7.0 cSt (ATF equivalent viscosity) to a 75W90 type viscosity of approx. 14.5 cSt, and contains special friction modification additives for synchronizer assembly engagement.
brass/bronze, or steel-steel materials.

Current MTL GL4 viscosites are:

1. ATF Series - Type; 6.5 to 8.5 cSt (Equivalent ATF viscosity; Note: ATF additive package is weak compared to most GL 4's)
2. Synchromesh Series -Type; 9.3 - 9.5 cSt (such as Amsoils MTF, Texaco's MTL, Pennzoil's Synchromesh, GM and Chrysler's Synchromesh)
3. 75W85 Series-Type; 9.8 to 11.5 cSt ( Redline's MTL, RP's Synchromax LT, Nissan's MTL, Honda MTL, Castrol Syntorq LT)
4. 75W90 Series-Type; 12.8 to 14.5 cSt (Amsoil's MTG, Redline's MT-90).

MTL specific lubes we're developed for manual tranny's and transaxles, and not for differentials or industrial gear boxes. A differential lube may not kill your tranny, but it is not the optimum lube for it. A diffy 75W90 (GL5) usually has a higher viscosity than does an mtl in the same advertized weight.

Am I right to conclude the fluid I purchased is correct?

[Fatmobile]

How's your clutch working with that new leak.
It's common for the pushrod tube seal to wear out and leak trany fluid right into the clutch.
If that's why it's leaking now, the problem was there before you added the thinner fluid.
Sometimes it's the mainshaft seal that goes around shaft that leaks,.. but usually not.

[jasons]

I haven't driven it. When I checked it this morning it was still leaking (9.5hrs later).

I wonder if I just overfilled it?
Brokevw.com says:

For MK1 cars, it seems there may not be a need to add the additional 0.5L of oil to the trans.

[82vdub]

My winter 86 gasser leaks trans oil like yours. If I pull the speedo cable and fill it, it'll leave a 8" puddle on the driveway overnight or at work during the day. So mine's constantly run low on oil, but I don't drive it too far from town. If I do have to go somewhere, I dump a little more oil in and head out. I've never looked at the reason why it leaks, but the clutch is fine. I guess it's the difference between a $400 car I only run in the winter and one that I really want to last.

[jasons]

I want mine to be a daily driver and I want it to be reliable, but at this point it's laughable.

I ordered the pushrod seal and bushing, complete shifter rod and bushing kit and motor/transmission mount kit. I'll go ahead and order the output shaft seal just to have in case I pull the transmission to fix this leak.

If I do pull the transmission, I'll inspect my clutch, but what should I replace while I'm there?

So far I've:
-Re-wired my glow plug system with a Ford starter relay and new fuse block
-Installed new Bosch glow plugs
-Stole a lug bolt from 2 wheels because my front left wheel only had 1 when I bought it
-Tightened up my PS pump which wasn't working due to belt slipping because only 1 bolt was holding it on
-Tightened alternator because belt was slipping
-Installed new trailing arm bushings
-Adjusted alignment
-Adjusted clutch cable
-New temperature sensor
-New valve cover gasket
-Oil change w/ new filter
-New fuel filter
-Transmission flush and fill

I've never in my life put so much work into such an ugly automobile...but it's so fun to drive