VW 1.6L Marine Engine

[Fatmobile]

I've been running the 2 end injector lines to a T in the middle,.. that goes to the pump output banjo.

[tyb525]

They do make a special end cap for the last injector, a sealed off piece of tube, is that what you used?

[86jetta1.6]

FYI, I work for a yacht dealership and we have a 40' sailboat with a marinized vw 1.6 from the factory. So they do exist in production form. They run a much different IP though than the automotive version.

[DeadEye]

Holly Cow Im back. Reserection of the ole boat thread. I took a few er umm years off this project to do other things but back at it now. Soon will be installing the IP Wendell built for me as the one on there now runs good but drips fuel Just put on a new alternator with the W terminal to drive the tachometer and this works out but causes a strange problem. Turn the key off and engine stays running!! For whatever reason power from the alternator backfeeds from the excite/dummy terminal to the fuel solenoid on the IP therefore preventing shutdown. Umm far as I know the only difference with this setup and a car is the bulb in the excite line, Think this little inductive resistance stops the feedback? I could put in a isolation relay or a blocking diode but for the moment I just cut the excite lead and now must rev the heck out of her to start the alternator charging and the tachometer working .

[DeadEye]

[TylerDurden]

Welcome back,

On the road vehicles, the exiter/alt lamp is a diode... hence, no backfeed.

[DeadEye]

Well that explains that then.. LOL Ill just put in a diode. Thanks man

[vwtyp133]

Even with the factory ALT light (Yes, an LED or incandescent bulb) and factory wiring, it seems like through the years most of my VWs with alternators have frequently needed a throttle 'blip' to start charging, judging by the voltmeters. No wild revving, but just a quick bump up to 1500-2000 engine rpm just after starting the engine; perfect charging after that while idling or running down the road, even on a camper with 3 batteries. Grounding the alternator's case seemed to help, but the issue never really went away completely. Not really hard to live with; just seems a bit weird!

[DeadEye]

Thanks typ133 Well now that this part of the project is done I can explain the BLIP as you call it. When the d+ is hooked straight to B+ and alternator is NOT spinning it will draw 4.8 amp current, the alternator will start charging at any rpm it is spun. The alt starts charging immediately even at stone dead slow idle but feedback will cause run on if no diode in line ( cathode toward alternator ). Seeing as most setups use a 3 watt indicator bulb I simulated this by using a red led with a 560 ohm resistor on the anode and a bank of resistors (55ohm) to bypass 3 watt power around led to excite alternator. The result is a good functional dummy light and alternator start to charge at any rpm above 900 ( with the led 3watt bypass their is 300mil current to excite ) I am sure if you up the current limiter it would reliably start charging even at dead slow idle. The bottom line is now I don't have to rev it past 2500 rpm it start charging only the tiny blip as you call it.

[DeadEye]

Lets Dial it in.

Well it been a few years and finally getting to the good part. Fished for 3 days and spent 45.00 on fuel, rest of fleet at marina spent 300 plus.
Put the pump on engine that the forum owner here rebuilt for me and engine runs real good. I think there is more to be had from it though, Tach says 3300 at max throttle but it seems to be rev limited as the last inch of throttle is no response. IE ~ to the floor is 3300 : 3/4 throttle still 3300 a little less throttle then rpm will drop with each slight movement. So is it a rev limiter in the pump and therefore I need to up the pitch (shift to a higher gear)?

[TylerDurden]

3300 is a good cruising crankspeed, more is just going to disproportionately add wear, IMO. Remember, these are torque happy motors.

I'd up the pitch.