A/C Golf; how to remove crank/waterpump/compressor belt?

[Josh]

The alternator belt broke. I got a 3VX265 to install, which looks like it's a useable size. I had figured that removing the waterpump pulley was how the belt which runs from the crank to the waterpump to the A/C compressor was tensioned, but I see now that that is not the case. I need to remove this pulley so I can install the alternator belt on the pulley which sits behind this belt on the A/C compressor, and runs up to the alternator.

How does that belt get tensioned/removed? I can see nothing on the A/C compressor that looks like there's a way for it to pivot or rotate. Is there a blind fastener beneath it or something that you just cannot see with the way the Golf's engine is crammed in there transversely? Do I need to remove both the waterpump pulley and the crank pulley? That's about where I am right now. In fact I think I'm just going to do it since the crank pulley looks a lot easier to remove than the waterpump pulley which I have already pulled the 3 6mm bolts from. Perhaps with both pulleys disconnected, enough wiggle room will come into play so that I can get the pulleys off, the belt off, or both. But for future reference, it'd be nice to know. I'm definitely going to ask the owner of the car to buy the $16 manual though going forward. These fancy new '85s are full of surprises!

[Josh]

Well f me but if the crank pulley isn't locked down and removing the four 6mm allen wrench bolts doesn't get me there. I made a crank bolt tool for my Quantum when I changed the front main seal; I'll see if that can work for the damned Golf, but I don't know that I'll have quite the musclepower to lay down to untorque it if it's as insanely tight as the Quantum is spec'd for.

Do I instead need to grab a damned 8mm allen driver for my socket wrench, and loosen the two visible allen bolt heads; one in front and one behind the compressor? Then will the damned thing rotate and allow for me to get the cursed belt off?

Death.

[bscutt]

I have done the easy (but crazy) way of using a remote starter switch and a screwdriver under the belt to flip the belt off the pulley by bumping the starter switch judiciously. Same for putting one back on. However, the compressor does have bolts towards the radiator that allow the compressor to swivel down. Tensioning it back with the new belt means a jack and 2x4 from the underside or some way to pull it up from the top. remove the alternator first. It's a terrible design but after the first 50 times it get easier.

[greg lousy]

what year golf?

on my mk2, there is a long adjusting screw that moves the whole compressor/ pulley assembly up and down but its hidden, mounted vertically right under the compressor so its hard to see, you gotta feel the head of it - 13mm i think. You have to loosen a few mounting bolts first, then adjust with this screw.... on my mk2 anyhow

[82vdub]

I'm not sure what the 85 setup looks like, but on ole 82, I have to remove the alternator to get to the adjustment bolts for the AC compressor to adjust that belt like bscutt said. Pain in the arse, but after 5 or so times of doing it, you know what to do. I also have a special piece of wood that I keep that I wrote "AC Tool" on it to use in conjunction with a hydraulic floor jack for pushing up on the AC compressor so I can tighten the belt. Once you know to keep the tool that you make to fit the application and do it a few times, it'll be easy. My 86 gas Jetta has the two bolts to loosen and then the bolt that you turn to tighten it. Nice setup, but I don't know if you 85 diesel is that way or like the 82 Rabbit.

[TylerDurden]

My routine:

Loosen the alternator idler locking nut (on idler post)
Loosen the alternator tensioning bolt almost entirely
Slide tensioner back
Remove alternator belt (if present) from alternator pulley
Loosen two 8mm compressor pivot bolts
Loosen compressor locking bolt (under idler post)
Loosen compressor tensioning locker nut and retract tensioning bolt almost entirely
Pivot compressor all the way down to touch wp pulley
Remove AC belt
If AC belt won't come off, remove WP pulley, then belt

Pivot compressor up
Place new alternator belt on compressor inner sheave
Pivot compressor down
Place AC belt on crank pulley and compressor
If removed, place wp pulley onto belt then attach to wp hub
Pivot compressor up and tension belt to .5" deflection with moderate thumb pressure and lock tensioner
Tighten compressor locking bolt ( under idler post)
Tighten 8mm pivot bolts
Place alternator belt on alt pulley and idler
If belt won't go on, remove idler from post and place on belt, then replace idler with belt in place
Slide tensioner forward
Tighten idler post nut lightly with no slop
Tighten idler tensioner bolt until alt pulley won't turn (slip on belt) with moderate thumb pressure
Tighten idler post nut.


After all my screwing around a few years ago, I now find that a smooth idle and not to overtighten is the best way to keep alt belts happy. I flog my rig to the redline regularly and tension is no worse for that, though aggressive downshifting/braking can cause belt slipping.

I re-tension only when I notice the belt slipping in rainy weather, about every six months or so (6k-7k miles).

[Josh]

thanks, Tyler!

I'm going to Home Depot to buy an 8mm allen driver socket for my 3/8" ratchet now.

[Fatmobile]

I remove the 4 allen bolts on the crank pully, to remove the AC belt,.. then remove/install the alternator belt.

[Josh]

Will the crank pulley come off? I got those 4 allen bolts off, but then the pulley seems to be also held on with the main central bolt. This is on an '85 NA Golf. It sure doesn't look like it will come off! Should I give it a few more deadblow hammer smashes and hope I'm wrong?

I spent yesterday smashing my way downward and making zero progress. So I removed the alternator to be able to see what's going on with the compressor better. And now I've unfastened all of the compressor-related contact points with the engine aside from the back side 8mm allen bolt, which I have loosened considerably. I'll go out and finish removing that bolt now, and then hopefully finally the compressor will break lose and move! As of last night, despite having removed everything but this one bolt, I could rock the entire vehicle all over the place, and still the dang compressor would not rotate. The only think aside from rust holding it in place is a bit of that 8mm bolt.

[greg lousy]

the pulley comes off around the main crankshaft bolt, no need to mess with that bad boy. It just looks like it doesn't and the pulley tends to be stuck on there even after the four bolts are removed. you can turn and tap with wood or plastic thing, or turn and pry, as long as you don't go too tough on it... if you don't have a puller... it'll come.
That being said, I've always been able to get it without removing that or any other pulley. I think it's at least worth doing the rest of the job first, getting the compressor as low as it will go to at least see where your at before you pull the pulley

[greg lousy]

[greg lousy]

sorry for the huge picture - this is my 86 golf. the rusty bolt head in the middle of the pic is the adjuster. The compressor will not move by force, it moves by this adjusting bolt. it should turn pretty easily. if it doesn't then you missed loosening something. it moves real slow, but keep turning and feel the belt and youll see its moving. hopefully its the same on yours good luck.

(the pic is looking down from the engine side of things)

[TylerDurden]

The section below the line is the mk2 diesel ac setup.

Compresso pivots on the capscrews (33)
The compressor tensioner bolt is (vertical 41)
The position is held by nuts (40) which thread onto bolts (38, 39) that go through the slots in the bracket and the ears of the compressor.
(38) is a t-bolt, and (39) is a carriage bolt.

The alt idler post (45) is held by bolt (44) and nut (49). That post is pulled forward by (horizontal 41)

Note that passenger-side capscrew (33) looks like it goes in the upper hole, but it goes directly opposite driver-side (33).

[Josh]

The smaller belt was a tight retrofit for the alternator, but it squeezed on there! Ended up putting the cooling fins awfully close to my fuel supply line, so I shortened it, and changed the approach angle via the banjo bolt on the pump.

I'm into keeping belts as loose as possible for longevity, but I do wonder about pogo-ing. At idle, both belts pogo a bit. When the rpms rise a bit, the pogo smooths out. Anybody have thoughts on either upping the idle, or tightening the belt so that it doesn't pogo so much? I'm concerned that eventual slapping over a long time could wear the belt from the outside in, or just that the pogo-ing stresses the belt.

[TylerDurden]

I don't like the belts flapping, but overtightening kills bushings... so somewhere inbetween is the Goldilocks tension value.

I think the worst part of very flappy belts is the shock loads on the crank sprocket (timing belt), which gets janked & yanked by the crank pulleys. Later models had a clutched alternator pulley on a serpentine belt to reduce the problem.

Like I stated earlier, a smooth idle is beneficial for this reason; so if raising the idle speed helps smooth the belt action, I'd do it.