Rabbit truck Stranded in Neport News .Big trouble.

[WorldA]

Ok i will get the shims out and see if they are marked. Il look for the measuring tool at hf. Im about a grand into this mistake now with everything now so money is running low but il.get another tool Im going to try to just swap valves from the 11mm head and measure the shim with a feeler guage .might save me from having to spend more on tools even tho i need them . Just in survival gtfo of here mode now. I will measure all the pistons at where i think tdc is for each one by feeler guage. Then il post here. Number 2 gasket. Ok thats 30 more bucks but im sure the difference in power is considerable. Just a bit lost about the shims but il do what you said and get the hitting valve shim measured one way or the other. Thanks again

[TylerDurden]

Here's a page from my vanagon manual, but the specs should be close enough.


Open in a new window to see bigger: https://dl.dropbox.com/s/0p3c7oq5i8g1v8 ... 182853.jpg

[WorldA]

Thanks so much for the info and effort . Most appreciated

[WorldA]

Ok valves in order 1 .010 2 .007 3 none 4 .007 5 .007 6 .011 7 .038 8 .014 i cant get a feeler guage under valve 3 . Thats the valve that hit .also valve 7 has hardly any clearence. .I tried the thinnest shim lifter I could find out of the extra set. I switched valves as well to a used valve from a 11mm head. It appeared to be the same. What makes there be no clearence . The valve really didnt look bent but I changed it anyway . What happens if there is no clearence on the cam lobe ? Can I find a tool to remove the shims at napa or harbor frieght or northern tools?

[TylerDurden]

>What makes there be no clearance...
Did I read you might have got the buckets mixed up? Maybe that.

>The valve really didnt look bent but I changed it anyway .
Good. A hit valve will eventually fail and kill your motor.

>What happens if there is no clearance on the cam lobe ?
Valve hangs open... not good.

>Can I find a tool to remove the shims at napa or harbor frieght or northern tools?
From an earlier post"

After figuring out how to actually use the bucket compressor tool with some degree of success, getting the shim out was another issue. After spending 15 minutes trying to get one shim out with the shim removal tool, I moved to the smallest screwdriver I had. After more frustration, I got smart and turned the air compressor on. From that point on, I only used compressed air to remove shims. I would say that if you have an air compressor, don't even buy the shim removal tool. Just blow compressed air into one of the reliefs for the shim removal tool, hold your hand on the other side and catch the disc as it comes out. 2-5 seconds to get each of the shims out. WAY better than the $15 tool.

[WorldA]

Ok lots of great info from you guys thank you so much. Well I found a place that had shims and I got all 8 valves within specs for cold motor . I ended up just dropping the lifters on the groubd to get the disks to pop out. It didnt hurt the lifter surface. I had no air compressor available or tool . When I finally got it started . I had sprung a massive leak in the top oring under the throttle lever on the ip. I ordered a new brass bushing control lever and oring from a diesel injection rebuild shop and he installed the bushing. I believe I got the ip put back together properly and I was turning the motor over and over while bleeding air from the lines. The starter ground wire from the solonoid to the starter began smoking and turning red. It eventually burned apart. I looked all along the wiring harness and grounds and didnt see anything weird . The motor sounded like it turned over normal but probably 50 times in 5 seperate attempts burned the wire. Now i have to get another starter . I just hope It doesnt immediatly burn out too. So im basically 90 percent as long as i did everything right. Its difficult doing all this in a storage garage . Its a interesting area I am at tho , norfolk naval base. All kinds of crazy planes and jets flying above the garage as I work .

[TylerDurden]

Well, you're missing all the fun weather back here at Lake Erie... wind chill is -6F this morning.

If the IP is full of fuel and the glow plugs are working, it should light off - provided the timing is good. "Close" might not cut it. You have the tools/gauge?

[WorldA]

Glug !! Yes I grew up in Akron ohio I know allllll about that 6 below zero stuff. I hope you are warm buddy !! I decided to head down to daytona for a lil while in the flipper car I bought to drive while I fix my kid rpt. I figured Id come down here while it was cold up there. As far as the timing . Yes the timing belt is absolutly perfect .all marks dead on. I just burned the starter out trying to get it started after air in the lines. Since it is a fresh rebuilt bottom end I am guessing the starter had to work overtime. Plus I was hearing the sound of the bushing in the trans..zzzzzzzz!!!! When i hit the starter sometimes . I am guessing that bushing is junk and causing problems with the starter. I never seen a starter ground wire get red hot and burn like this. I hope there is not a ground that is hot somewhere. Also how does a 12mm head work on a 11mm block if the head is a bit taller? Does that not change the timing by a mark or 2 ? Weird it would work because the 11mm head is way shorter. Anyway stay warm my friends and thanks for all the help ..also maybe because its a 3 notch instead of a 2 notch maybe that is causing it to turn over . I also may have put the ip back together wrong . Il be back up at the truck on it as soon as the artic blast moves away .

[TylerDurden]

As far as the timing . Yes the timing belt is absolutly perfect .all marks dead on.

Without a gauge, you could still be way off... Yes, with lots of fiddling of pump position you might find a point where it runs, maybe even well, but the gauge is a quick way to get squarely in the ballpark and running.

I hope you are warm buddy !! I decided to head down to daytona for a lil while in the flipper car I bought to drive while I fix my kid rpt. I figured Id come down here while it was cold up there.

I hop you get a sunburn.
jk

[Fatmobile]

A hot starter wire is usually caused by a bad solenoid contact.
If that was on the stud the battery connects to;
you could have could have unscrewed the washer at the base of the stud, pushed it in and turned it so it would contact in another spot.
Hard to do that on the other post because of the solder and wire,.. but it can be done.
If you get a fresh starter; buy a bosch premium remanufactured starter, NAPA carries them.