Hey guys,
So last night coming home, the brake pedal started to get higher and tighter. A few blocks from my house, I started to smell burning brakes! When I pulled in my driveway, the front two brakes were dragging considerably.
This morning, I went outside to see if there was a pressure build up in the lines, sure enough there was. I cracked open each line and then the wheels moved pretty easily. The other thing that I noticed? THE PARKING BRAKE LIGHT WAS OUT!!!?
So, the master cylinder is brand new, German quality. I pressure bled the system with a homemade pump and brand new synthetic brake fluid.
Any ideas why the brakes would bind like that? Could it have been since I pressure bled the system? I would think that the pressure would release when taking off the MS cap right?
The pedal has about 4mm of play before the brakes engage, as per Bentley.
I'm going to keep an eye on it, but you guys have any ideas?
parking Brake Light staying ON
Moderator: Fatmobile
master cylinder inner diameter wrong
So, check this.
I took off the master cylinder, well, actually had to yank it off because it was stuck!?
Reason: The inner diameter of the barrel was tapered where the original one was not. What does that mean? The pushrod was engaging too early. And actually slightly drove into the metal, which is why I had to pry it back off.
Solution: I had to drill out parallel the inside of the M/S bore where the push rod goes into.
Results: No more pesky PARKING BRAKE LIGHT staying on and more importantly the brakes don't LOCK!!!
I took off the master cylinder, well, actually had to yank it off because it was stuck!?
Reason: The inner diameter of the barrel was tapered where the original one was not. What does that mean? The pushrod was engaging too early. And actually slightly drove into the metal, which is why I had to pry it back off.
Solution: I had to drill out parallel the inside of the M/S bore where the push rod goes into.
Results: No more pesky PARKING BRAKE LIGHT staying on and more importantly the brakes don't LOCK!!!