Newbie here, IP problem

[nmrwr85]

I had about 20 minutes before work yesterday so I pulled the top off of the pump. It really is quite crammed in there. Didn't have my flashlight on me so I couldn't see in there. I'll be bring some tools home with me tonight to see if I'm gonna be able to do it on the car.

[nmrwr85]

I took some time this morning to loosen the head, had the top off, was able to see that the shim is still in place and it appears that everything else still is as well.
So now what? Put it back together and try again, or is it time for a new pump?

[sgnimj96]

used pumps can be had pretty cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volkswagen-dies ... ca&vxp=mtr, Hard to imagine why your IP just stopped working, tho.
The guys at vwdiesel.net in the IDI section are deep into the bosch ve pumps, if you haven't read some of those threads already. Really, the main things that can cause a previously working pump to not work (assuming it gets fuel and the stop solenoid is good) are broken parts. e.g. http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php ... 774.0.html

[Quantum-man]

I took some time this morning to loosen the head, had the top off, was able to see that the shim is still in place and it appears that everything else still is as well.
So now what? Put it back together and try again, or is it time for a new pump?

With top off, turn engine over and see that the piston goes back and forth. Also check that moving the govenor lever, actually moves the do-nut shaped fuel spill sleeve.
Also check that the condom type sleeve on the weights spindle is free to retract the weights, when pushed back by the weak spring on the govenor lever.

Not sure of the advice on the GTD site, because the retarded Omnimod who called me an "A Hole" still has me banned, and has changed it to "Not set to expire". Ah well at least I don't have to look at his cricket stumps Lol

[sgnimj96]

banned? WTF is Omnimod? I know they like to call this the "hillbilly forum" because, well I'm not sure exactly why, but they seem afraid to talk about things like timing by ear or any IP bushing diy- perhaps for good reason.... nevertheless, big loss for them. They do have a new owner now btw http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php ... ile;u=9887

Speaking of bushings, the 2 brass mainshaft bushings in a IP may be the secret killer of pumps. When they wear out (usually from overtightened timing belt), the driveshaft runs off-center. It can make the front seal leak fuel out or suck air in. The belt starts tracking on its gear away from the engine, usually. Not many people change those bushings themselves because they are pressed in and have to be reamed straight to fit the mainshaft with a close tolerance.
This http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php ... 137.0.html looks like a nice pump

[Quantum-man]

banned? WTF is Omnimod? I know they like to call this the "hillbilly forum" because, well I'm not sure exactly why, but they seem afraid to talk about things like timing by ear or any IP bushing diy- perhaps for good reason.... nevertheless, big loss for them. They do have a new owner now btw http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php ... ile;u=9887

Speaking of bushings, the 2 brass mainshaft bushings in a IP may be the secret killer of pumps. When they wear out (usually from overtightened timing belt), the driveshaft runs off-center. It can make the front seal leak fuel out or suck air in. The belt starts tracking on its gear away from the engine, usually. Not many people change those bushings themselves because they are pressed in and have to be reamed straight to fit the mainshaft with a close tolerance.
This http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php ... 137.0.html looks like a nice pump

Sorry for the mini-rant. Omnimod was a word I coined for the sole-acting all powerful moderator on the aforementioned formerly brilliant site.Many top contributors have left, or more recently been excluded. Despite my unswerving loyalty to the site, the guy couldn't get to grips with the fact that I rebuilt my current daily driver with $22 worth of piston rings, a plastic bottle and some coarse wet 'n' dry abrasive paper.
My car, and especially the turbo engine has been an ongoing experiment, these last 7 years or so, the aim of which was to keep the car running economically at little cost, to give some hope to those who had similar mk2 cars, who were on a relatively tight budget in this recession, students, or otherwise. Someone official actually invited me onto the GTD facebook page last week! Perhaps the new owner doesn't realize I'm blocked. Maybe someone can put in a good word for me ).

Back to the pump:
Having studied them intensely since May, when my hot start fails began, I have come to the conclusion that to damage those two bearings in the pump, the over-tight belt probably took out previous belt tensioners and half shaft bearings too over the years.
My engine still has what I believe is the original tensioner from factory, the engine stamped on about 7th November 1984. Research from books, and operational running has shown me that the belt can have no tension on it at all, when at rest, and no cam lobe, or pump cam lobe acting on it. Indeed the belt has more strength. [Slack taken up by the tensioner].

[sgnimj96]

I think it's awesome you did a cheap semi-refresh on a engine with just rings.
It's not like you were telling people to do it, its just something YOU decided to try. Something to be learned there. If someone recommends against it, thats good information, too. Too bad that they couldn't just leave it to free speech, that's what these forums ARE about.
I replaced the brass bushings in a 107a bosch IP using a old bicycle axle and nut with a large deep well socket (and a bench vice) to press them out and in. Reamed it with a cheap single adjustable reamer from zorotools; kept the tail of the reamer straight with a hole drilled in the center of a nutella lid jammed in end of the pump body. Heck, it was a ~$50 pump from ebay, I didn't want to spend a bunch of money on it. It's not perfect but it works. I wonder if I'd get flack about that in the GTD
Yea, it was a lot of work, but I learned from it. I later used that same bike axle/nut and socket to press out/in a front control arm bushing on my mk1. Cheers!!

[Quantum-man]

Good stuff Hagar just stuck his thumbs up in approval

I think it's awesome you did a cheap semi-refresh on a engine with just rings.
It's not like you were telling people to do it, its just something YOU decided to try. Something to be learned there. If someone recommends against it, thats good information, too. Too bad that they couldn't just leave it to free speech, that's what these forums ARE about.
I replaced the brass bushings in a 107a bosch IP using a old bicycle axle and nut with a large deep well socket (and a bench vice) to press them out and in. Reamed it with a cheap single adjustable reamer from zorotools; kept the tail of the reamer straight with a hole drilled in the center of a nutella lid jammed in end of the pump body. Heck, it was a ~$50 pump from ebay, I didn't want to spend a bunch of money on it. It's not perfect but it works. I wonder if I'd get flack about that in the GTD
Yea, it was a lot of work, but I learned from it. I later used that same bike axle/nut and socket to press out/in a front control arm bushing on my mk1. Cheers!!

[nmrwr85]

So I found a little bit of time today to mess with my car. Sometimes I hate being a mechanic, because everyone always needs me to do something for them.
Anyways, with the top off, I rotated the engine over, everything seems to be moving as it should. Nothing seems out of place. So I put the top back on with a new seal, filled it up with fluid through the "out" hole.
I'm trying to get the linkage in the right place. Any tips for this? I marked it so I know where it should be when it's completely assembled, but I'm not having much luck getting it there. Any tips for that?

[Quantum-man]

With lid on, turn spindle as far anti clockwise as possible with fingers. Let it settle back on it's own.
Back off slow idle stop.
Drop on accelerator lever whilst tensioning the spring with a screwdriver.

Aim to get the single mark in line with the second most clockwise 'long mark' Screw nut on with fingers without washer if spindle still needs pulling through.
This is done one handed because the other hand holds the spring, with the screwdriver.
Now transfer spring to the accelerator arm.
Remove nut and put back on with the washer.

Re-adjust stop screw.
Start up and re-re-adjust stop screw.
When correct idle achieved, be sure to tighten spindle nut and stop screw locking nut.

[nmrwr85]

Is this what you meant by the second long mark? I still have to put the other spring on, but want to make sure this is correct so far.

[Quantum-man]

Hi,
That's about correct. I use the middle one on the left, however I'm sure you are within adjustable range. On the accelerator cable side I leave just a hint of slack.

[nmrwr85]

It may be a bad angled picture, It's lined up with the second line on the left.
Tomorrow I should have time to get everything put back together and try bleeding it again.

[Quantum-man]

Great...
I use a 50cc syringe to suck fuel through pump and remove air. I disconnect @ end of return hose by firewall and is a cheap substitute for a Mityvac, and far more powerful than a squeezebulb ended syringe. Only downside is the plunger swells if immersed in diesel. Coating in moly grease reduces this. Thrown away by their millions in hospital. Used for saline etc.

[nmrwr85]

Thanks for all the info. Hopefully I can get it running. Filling up my other car every other day is killing my wallet.