Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

working with a 86 n/a 1.6 diesel
noticed my car takes alot of cranking to start, found some fuel driping from the waterpump area, haven't identified source of leak yet.

if the front seal is leaking, does it leak from the pulley side, or will it drain back away from the pulley?

i got the bosch rebuild kit DGK 126, is this the one with viton seals? there are two green seals for the cold start, one green seal for the pump head, and two small green o-rings. the kit also contains some more regular black o-rings. are these all thats needed for running bio diesel?

the kit didn't come with a new bushing for the throttle arm...
and i believe i have a front seal, but it has a metal outside, is this the correct seal? also, there is a large o-ring type seal with little nubs. reading through the rebuild posts, i dont see where this goes. is this extra and used with a different pump?

i just want to make sure i have everything before i get started.

I believe the new Bosch IP seal sets are bio diesel compatible out of the box. These kits fit a variety of different IP's, so you may have a lot of left over parts after the reseal. I believe the mainshaft seal is the gasket that's not included in the DGK126 kit. I can't remember, but the large high pressure end O-ring may not be in the kit either.

I recently completed a complete teardown & reseal. Yes, you will have some leftover parts. As I disassembled the pump, and removed each seal, I chose the correct seal from the new kit and labeled it. That worked out well. All seals except for the shaft seal were included.
The shaft seal does have a metal shell.

TonyB
Jacksonville, FL
81 Dasher 1.6na

Just did mine and had the same sort of leak. It was the O ring under the cold start that was leaking and this is a typical "fist leak."
The main shaft seal does not usually come with the kit.

My advice is to carefully match mark all levers to their shafts before tear down (cold start, throttle, rev limit screw). It will save you a whole lot of fiddle faddle later.

Ira B wrote: The main shaft seal does not usually come with the kit.

Yuppers... the seal included in that kit doesn't fit our particular pump iirc.

ok, sounds like i have all thats needed to reseal the pump.
i have the pump removed from the car, it was leaking from the cover opposite the cold start lever.

i have the three sided socket for the triangle bolts, is there another special tool i need? my governor shaft lock nut is round, with two key ways. its not a regular bolt like in the pictures online. it almost looks like the strut bushing nut. where can i find a tool to loosen this? am i gonna have to make socket like i had to do with the struts?

things i need to make note of when disasembling;
throttle lever arm location
cold start arm location
idle screw
max speed screw
fuel volume screw (smoke screw)
governor shaft (does this unscrew, just count turns?)

i've read through the assembly several time and most of it makes sense. the only part i'm not so sure of is the governor sleave and shaft. does the sleave need to be aligned, or is it just the shaft?

thanks for the help so far.

That governor lock nut is often reverse threaded.
take a look at where it is set now,.. probably 2mm from the surface of the pump.

You can release the lock nut and thread it in all the way, while counting the turns so you know how many turns it sits from the bottom.

[quote="(o\UU/o)]

i've read through the assembly several time and most of it makes sense. the only part i'm not so sure of is the governor sleave and shaft. does the sleave need to be aligned, or is it just the shaft?

thanks for the help so far.[/quote]

The governor shaft is the screw that the round lock nut that is located above the main shaft seal holds in place. The sleave is a slider that moves on it.
The round nut and shaft are left hand thread. A good idea is to use a dremel tool and cut wheel to make a line across the pump body, round nut in one of it's two notches and the top (hex hole area) of the screw/shaft. This will save you a ton of fiddle faddle when you put it back together.

i got everything taken apart and have begun cleaning.

i did use a dremel and marked the governor shaft hex key, and made note of the turns. shouldn't be a problem, looks like the sleave just spins..

only problem i have so far, one of the outlet valve internals are stuck in the valve. i didn't have time to try and seperate the peices before i had to go to class. that will be tomorrows project along with finishing cleaning.

just thinking,...
would it be alright to install the shaft seal first?
the online procedure says to do it last, but i think it would be easier to install first. i dont see a problem doing this?

(o\UU/o) wrote:just thinking,...
would it be alright to install the shaft seal first?
the online procedure says to do it last, but i think it would be easier to install first. i dont see a problem doing this?

Probably wouldn't matter but it is real easy to press or drive it into place using the correct size socket after the rebuild.
Just don't nick or cut the inner surface and be sure to lube it and the mainshaft well with 30w before installing the mainshaft or the seal will be trashed instantly when the engine starts due to friction/heat.

well, i got pretty far on the pump, then i made a big mistake.
i was attaching the head, and ended up breaking the spring perch on the distributor piston. the pins must not have been lined up with the holes...

does anyone have a spare parts pump, or where would i be able to get this part?

just saw this on ebay this morning. Price is right!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-Bosch ... ccessories

TonyB
81 Dasher 1.6na

Well, i lucked out. found guy in town with a spare pump and bought it for $10.

Finaly got it all put back together and ready to re-install. besides breaking a part, the toughest thing to put back together were those two springs on the throttle arm. one seems like it would work, did they use two incase one breaks?

another thing i noticed, there aren't enough crush washers for the fuel in and out included in the kit. came with four, you really need 5...

all thats left is reinstall it, prime and time, and hope for the best.

well, i got it put together and started.

its leaking badly around the throttle shaft now. i replaced the o-ring, but not the bushing...

where can i get this bushing?

i lubed all the o-rings during installation with petroleum jelly, and made sure i put the right sized ones on. i'm getting frustrated now.

anything else i should check before i tear it back apart?