Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Fatmobile wrote:If you surface it, you will probably find that the cam rocks in the journals.
The head will still be high in the center and the cam will rock like a teeter totter.
A local place bends the heads back straight and line bores it,
before a rebuild begins.
How much is it warped?

I didn't have the stuff to check it myself. Shop said it was (I trust them). So, does that mean I'll have to inline bore where the cam sits.... I was just planning to swap in the other cam, assuming it is smooth....

Still working on the project..... farm work has taken the place of working on the Rabbit. Head is still a friend's friend's machine shop. No rush....

Head needs valves and guides...

Pretty common,
especially the exhaust valves.
The trick is to end up with valves set so the adjustment shims aren't too thin to adjust later.
You might end up getting some new seats too,
just to get the valves to sit lower and allow a fatter adjustment shim.

does that mean I'll have to inline bore where the cam sits

You will probably have to line bore the cam journals if you've surfaced the head. Check the cam teeter when you get a chance.

When going with a used, warped head; it's best to have it bent straight then line-bored,..
then valves installed; shim thickness checked and new seats installed if the shims are so thin they won't allow adjustment as the valves/seats wears.
Then peen the prechambers in and surface it.

I have heard of people wrapping the cam with a layer of sandpaper and using it to "line-bore" the cam journals,.. claimed it worked well and I can see how it would.
,.. it's the middle ones that need it the most.

Well, since I took the cam out, I might give it to my buddy to give to the machinist. If not, I'll get a new cam and have him install it.

Project s l o o o w l l l y y y going......

Heads been back.... but have yet to install....

As I said before, it got new valves. But I didn't include the new cam..... so valve adjusting will be needed. I have yet to read up on how to do that....


(Trying to get a grape harvester ready for harvest (and other associated equipment). Last minute stuff , but all my friends say I'm a last minute person. Oh well.... One slave show and I'm the slave.... )

Okay.... I know I asked this sometime before but forgot..... I think.... head studs still needed...

So..... question: Undercut studs or regular??

I'm not sure it matters.
I think the 11mm headstuds I've been using aren't undercut,
and they seem to work fine on the 1.5 engine,..
I hit 20psi a couple times tonight, I like leaving semis far behind,
in my smoke.

Okay- Project Update


Things are going slow on the project, but the head studs finally arrived. Been busy and keep forgetting to order. The head is over at a buddies and he's adjusting them. Now just have to get the car over there, get a head gasket....

That reminds me, I know that the general rule is to get the same gasket that was on there (look at the notches). But what happens when you put a different head that has had a new valves put in? Good idea to check for clearances or just get a head gasket and go.....

Gaskets are determined by piston protrusion above TDC.

THE RABBIT LIVES!!

More details later..... And she fires up when cold (32F) too!

Well, the old Rabbit runs now. There was a knock & buddy who put her together thought it was the lower end. But it seemed to be an injector...went away after a while & putting cleaner In fuel system seems to make it better. glow plug system seems to be working in its current form (original). Do you wait for the light to go off like most diesels? Seems a loooong time being on.

As stated, 11mm ARP head studs used. Water pump leaks, but not an issue. Diddto w/ heater valve, seeps. Car wont be used for winter for now, project. Not sure if the "crack" I saw on the backside is a crack or what....no leaks from there as far as I can tell. pO said tranny is a 5 speed.....whats the shift pattern? Cant find 1st gear....hope it is a simple issue....linkages vs internal tranny issues.

Is the correct starting method to gp for xx seconds, press throttle down 1/4 and crank? My Ford idis say thats how to start those.....

Is there any place to get old VW resto parts? i need a blower assembly/motor. pO wired in a computer fan for the defrost/heater fan. PAssengerside A pillar has rust hole.

an owner in the past put full guages in, but not sure where the senders are. This car has oem idiot lights. At some point, i want the guages hooked back up, plus i might put a manual over ride for the cooling fan. I think it works..heard it when buddy dropped it off. The Rabbit is a slow "restoration" project.... Usable one that is.

And all of you were right. the Rabbit has "procreated"....bought a 81 VW pickup w/ diesel early 1.6 w/ 11mm head bolts. Head gasket is bad, says buddy. Damn you all, this is addictive !!

When using duraterm glowplugs, I wait about 7 seconds before starting in summer.
Sometimes as much as 20 seconds in the winter.

Probably just need a shifter bushing kit to find reverse,.. or if you want to drive it; push down and act like you are heading for reverse but only go part way before shifting into first.

Used body parts can be found on the vortex.

Ebay says that's the heater fan assembly for my Rabbit.... I'm missing the fan completely, so I have no idea what it is suppose to look like.