IP re-seal and petroleum Jelly

[budski]

Re-sealed my pump and I used petroleum jelly on alot of parts including the solenoid guts to hold things together while I assembled them.

There was mention that the jelly melts on contact with the diesel. Does it take a while? Put some on my finger and it really didn't melt.

I applied vacuum to the out banjo bolt and got fuel to go through the filter and out the top of the IP. So most of the pump should be full of fuel.

When I crank the engine, the pump is not sucking fuel and I am getting power to the fuel shut off solenoid.

Any insight is appreciated.

Bud

[82vdub]

Welcome to the forum, and this topic has been covered many, many times. You can search the forum and start to read. I always suggest that people eliminate most of the vehicle when trying to isolate a fuel problem/starting problem. Rig up a jar of fuel with a filter on it and feed that directly to the IP. The car should start. If not and the IP is full of fuel and you're getting fuel out of the injector lines (irregardless that the fuel solenoid clicks), then likely the problem resides somewhere else (glow plugs, compression, timing etc). Once you have the car running, then connect the fuel line to the remainder of the car and let it suck fuel from the tank. Isolate and then troubleshoot is the way to solve this. Likely the fuel filter is drained and these IP's aren't great at sucking enough air to pull fuel from the tank.

If you're sure the IP's full of fuel and you have fuel to the injectors and your car has a block heater, plug the block heater in for a couple hours and it should start up like it's warm. But check for fuel coming out of the injector lines at an injector. No fuel there and the car will never start. Do you have clear fuel lines going to and from the IP?

[Fatmobile]

Lovely car,.. but you need to shrink the avatar a little .

if you didn't have a hard time sucking fuel through the filter and pump,
there probably isn't a restriction in the fuel system.

Sometimes it takes RPMs to get the pump to start moving the fuel.
The stop solenoid has nothing to do with fuel flowing through the pump and back to the tank.
It controls fuel to the injectors.

Stuff you could try are:
swap a non-restricted bolt in place of the "OUT" banjo bolt,.. that might help get it flowing.
You might have to pull start it to get the RPMs high enough, if the starter won't do it.
A primer pump would help supply fuel until it got going, then it might take over on it's own,..
it worked before you resealed it right?

[budski]

Yep it ran before the rebuild. It was leaking like a sieve. Started having power problems on the highway. Would bog down on hills. Decided it was time to rebuild it.

I'll give your tips a try

Thaks,
Bud

Lovely car,.. but you need to shrink the avatar a little .

if you didn't have a hard time sucking fuel through the filter and pump,
there probably isn't a restriction in the fuel system.

Sometimes it takes RPMs to get the pump to start moving the fuel.
The stop solenoid has nothing to do with fuel flowing through the pump and back to the tank.
It controls fuel to the injectors.

Stuff you could try are:
swap a non-restricted bolt in place of the "OUT" banjo bolt,.. that might help get it flowing.
You might have to pull start it to get the RPMs high enough, if the starter won't do it.
A primer pump would help supply fuel until it got going, then it might take over on it's own,..
it worked before you resealed it right?

[anto]

I find when i rebuild a pump and try to start it for the 1st time that my battery just isnt capable of cranking it over fast enough to purge the system of air.
I now always hook it up to another car and turn it over with the jump leads attached until all air is purged from pump/ lines then it'l start right away.

[81caddyGuy]

I rebuild my pump last week and had the same problem. I think what happened is when i used the vasoline on the vane pump the vanes would not spin out against the housing. I filled the pump and cranked for quite a while after cracking the fuel lines on tthe injectors to see if it was getting fuel. i thrn took the shut off solenoid out to verify operation. put it back together and it just started. i never found an issue it just started working. next rebuild i an going to use some type of oil to pre lube the vane pump and petroleum jelly on the rest of the pump as that is the only reason there would be no fuel suction.

[budski]

Got it bled out using a primer bulb and cranking. She started up using the cold start handle which never seemed to work before the rebuild. It ran with lots of smoke (unburnt fuel).

Then it idled way high. So high I couldn't shut it off with the ignition switch. So I pulled the fuel line off the filter and let it run dry again.

I know I have to check the timing. I installed it by scribing marks on the belt shroud when un-installing.. It seems like it's off by 1/2 a tooth on the sprocket. Not sure what I did wrong, but I'll double check everything. I did make sure I had the cam plate lock in and TDC.

Wonder why it would rev so high? I put the smoke screw (fuel adjustment) same number of turns in as I took out plus I measured with a set of calipers to the head of the screw.

[bscutt]

try backing out the "smoke" screw, count the turns. Could be something stuck with vaseline but I would try the screw first

[rabbit_man]

Not shutting off could be the plunger in the stop solenoid being stuck with vaseline.

Why didn't you just stall it to shut it off.........auto tranny?

If it's idling at the right speed and still smoking then your timing is most likely wrong and needs advanced.

Also you should pop the valve cover and check cam/crank timing.

[budski]

Didn't want to stall it with the tranny, it was running way too high to drop it in gear (manual).

I did have the crank and cam (lock plate) at TDC (flywheel), I'll check it again and put a dial indicator on the pump to triple check.

Not shutting off could be the plunger in the stop solenoid being stuck with vaseline.

Why didn't you just stall it to shut it off.........auto tranny?

If it's idling at the right speed and still smoking then your timing is most likely wrong and needs advanced.

Also you should pop the valve cover and check cam/crank timing.

[Caerbannog]

Could you have put the throttle lever on the shaft on the wrong alignment? Or maybe the throttle springs aren't hooked up right?

Just a couple of thoughts...

[81caddyGuy]

Very true. I had mine in the right location but it had no power and did not respond untill quarter throttle. Turned out to be in the right location and the max fuel screw was not in far enough. I did not remove the screw when I redid the pump but after un sticking the stuck injection quantity sleeve there was not enough fuel.

[budski]

Hmmm, you got me thinking of not installing the throttle lever correctly. Maybe I have it 180 out and it's at max to begin with.

After I installed the lever and springs I looked into the top with the banjo fitting removed and could see the innards working turning the lever but really wasn't sure how far it was supposed to travel.

I'll play with the lever setting first.

Thanks.

[budski]

Thought I had the throttle springs on right. It is pushing the lever against the idle screw and not the max stop screw on top.

Could you have put the throttle lever on the shaft on the wrong alignment? Or maybe the throttle springs aren't hooked up right?

Just a couple of thoughts...

[81caddyGuy]

I think he meant locating it on the splines for the governor. you can see in the end of this homebrew procedure there are lines on the throtle lever and one going across the throtle shaft. if you have it out try rotating the the shaft one line clock wise. that will reduce tension on the fuel control and bring the idle under control. http://www.greenbaypartsworld.com/vw/vw ... ebuild.htm