what tool to remove injectors?
Moderator: Fatmobile
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- Diesel Freak
- Posts: 132
- Joined: Sun Feb 13, 2005 10:16 pm
- Location: Maine, USA
what tool to remove injectors?
what tool can be used to remove the injectors from 1.6 diesel engine? I have tried using sockets and even a deep socket, but does not sit deep enough and/or does not get around the fuel ports on top..if i remember correctly..picking up a project i from a year ago.
84 diesel rabbit, 1.6 non turbo.
84 diesel rabbit, 1.6 non turbo.
------------------------------------
2003 Jetta TDI Wagon 5sp, 135,000 mi
1984 Rabbit diesel, 240,000 mi, wvo conversion
1985 Yanmar YM146 diesel, 1650 hrs, wvo conversion
2003 Jetta TDI Wagon 5sp, 135,000 mi
1984 Rabbit diesel, 240,000 mi, wvo conversion
1985 Yanmar YM146 diesel, 1650 hrs, wvo conversion
As you've found out, not all sockets are created equally (inside). Some hit the barbs and some don't. I have a socket here that works, but I have no idea who the manufacturer is. Try the Sears 12 point that bscutt mentioned. Also make sure you push or pull on the injector towards the head, not away from the head. You could crack the injector boss on the head, making you replace a head while you're working on your injectors. Don't forget the new heat shields.
Everybody else lists their cars here - but not me.
I have too many to count
I have too many to count
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- Diesel Freak
- Posts: 132
- Joined: Sun Feb 13, 2005 10:16 pm
- Location: Maine, USA
push or pull toward head..
Not sure what you mean by "make sure you push or pull on the injector towards the head, not away from the head."
do you mean to keep pressure down on the socket or press up toward the hood. i have never replaced injectors so want to make sure i understand this prior to doing and not crack the head as you mention.
do you mean to keep pressure down on the socket or press up toward the hood. i have never replaced injectors so want to make sure i understand this prior to doing and not crack the head as you mention.
------------------------------------
2003 Jetta TDI Wagon 5sp, 135,000 mi
1984 Rabbit diesel, 240,000 mi, wvo conversion
1985 Yanmar YM146 diesel, 1650 hrs, wvo conversion
2003 Jetta TDI Wagon 5sp, 135,000 mi
1984 Rabbit diesel, 240,000 mi, wvo conversion
1985 Yanmar YM146 diesel, 1650 hrs, wvo conversion
-
- Diesel Freak
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 11:39 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: push or pull toward head..
The idea is that you want to avoid damaging the threads, and from high pressure of being the injection site, this is a major concernDiesel_Rabbit wrote:Not sure what you mean by "make sure you push or pull on the injector towards the head, not away from the head."
do you mean to keep pressure down on the socket or press up toward the hood. i have never replaced injectors so want to make sure i understand this prior to doing and not crack the head as you mention.
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- Turbo Charger
- Posts: 1148
- Joined: Sat Dec 16, 2006 3:05 pm
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
The trick is to always have your wrench parallel to the head and moving towards the head. This causes force to be placed on the inside part of the injector hole... which is plenty beefy... rather than the outside...which is thin and known to crack now and then.
In addition to this, another suggestion is to treat the injector like a tap... back it out a 1/2 turn, rotate it back 1/4 turn, back it out another 1/2 turn, rotate it in 1/4 turn, etc. This helps break up any buildup of rust, soot, etc. and prevent the gunk from gumming the threads tighter as the injector is removed.
Final tip: don't forget that the heat shields are designed for a single use only when you go to put the injectors back in.
In addition to this, another suggestion is to treat the injector like a tap... back it out a 1/2 turn, rotate it back 1/4 turn, back it out another 1/2 turn, rotate it in 1/4 turn, etc. This helps break up any buildup of rust, soot, etc. and prevent the gunk from gumming the threads tighter as the injector is removed.
Final tip: don't forget that the heat shields are designed for a single use only when you go to put the injectors back in.
Vince
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3
1970 Bay Window bus
Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta
Here's a small collection of HOW-TOs
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3
1970 Bay Window bus
Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta
Here's a small collection of HOW-TOs
Re: push or pull toward head..
See the pic about 2/3 down the page. viewtopic.php?t=7730Diesel_Rabbit wrote:Not sure what you mean by "make sure you push or pull on the injector towards the head, not away from the head."
Everybody else lists their cars here - but not me.
I have too many to count
I have too many to count
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- Turbo Charger
- Posts: 2085
- Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2006 4:34 pm
- Location: Gloucester; Limey-Land
For undoing don't use a single arm wrench. I cannot see that pushing towards the engine is much better than pulling away from engine.
Better to stand [for transverse engines to the side of the car] and do any push/pulling along engine.
However I don't like to rely purely on that, I use a 'T' bar That restricts the push and pull to equal[ish] amounts of both.
Still better is to add on a pair of VW wheel wrenches which will give you more power and more control.
Best of all to completely overcome leverage, is to add to the bottom of your extenssion bar, a flexi-joint.
Set it so that it is square on with your body, so that you will not find the 'only' way to lever with a flexi joint
When replacing injectors do not over tighten injectors.
With a heatshield you can feel it 'give', and then stiffen up. That is the nozzle pushing the heatshield out of shape, and the outer part of the injector taking up the slack and sealing nozzle and injector case.
If you have to go much beyond that ,then there is something wrong with the heatshield, or sealing shoulder of the head, or you have some crud in between.
You CAN reuse old heat shields if you want to. Especially if you don't have any to hand. [Order a new set for reserve]
Press back into shape with a 3/8" ball bearing aa M12 nut and a set of Mole grips [vice grips] Reuse can go on for many times, and keeping the same shield in the same hole is good too as each shield is like a finger print. The vice grips give a 'metered' distortion. Do not distort beyond the dimensions of a brand new shield. Best to go slightly less, as the sharp edge has been shaped into a sealing ring. Placing old shield on injector will help to see when you have a gap of about 0.5mm.
I would suggest for all those doubters, then let's do a world wide experiment. Take a heat shield , new or one use old, and using the above method reshape and clamp back down in a spare head. Repeat until shield dies. I bet we will get 15+ out of them. This is an Urban Myth that I want to quash, that they are one use only.
Just because the Bentley says so doesn't make it right. The 'B' says what VAG says... and VAG was on the same learning curve as the rest of us
If several of us do the same experiment then we will get the answer for sure, just like the Injector shim needing to be special, and with a hole in the middle and only available by special order etc etc. They just need to be hard, for resistance to spread purposes; the nozzle tip does that in any event
Use $2 tape measure springs and make little disks out of them to add into weak injectors. They in turn can be heated up and hit for fine adjustment.
Better to stand [for transverse engines to the side of the car] and do any push/pulling along engine.
However I don't like to rely purely on that, I use a 'T' bar That restricts the push and pull to equal[ish] amounts of both.
Still better is to add on a pair of VW wheel wrenches which will give you more power and more control.
Best of all to completely overcome leverage, is to add to the bottom of your extenssion bar, a flexi-joint.
Set it so that it is square on with your body, so that you will not find the 'only' way to lever with a flexi joint
When replacing injectors do not over tighten injectors.
With a heatshield you can feel it 'give', and then stiffen up. That is the nozzle pushing the heatshield out of shape, and the outer part of the injector taking up the slack and sealing nozzle and injector case.
If you have to go much beyond that ,then there is something wrong with the heatshield, or sealing shoulder of the head, or you have some crud in between.
You CAN reuse old heat shields if you want to. Especially if you don't have any to hand. [Order a new set for reserve]
Press back into shape with a 3/8" ball bearing aa M12 nut and a set of Mole grips [vice grips] Reuse can go on for many times, and keeping the same shield in the same hole is good too as each shield is like a finger print. The vice grips give a 'metered' distortion. Do not distort beyond the dimensions of a brand new shield. Best to go slightly less, as the sharp edge has been shaped into a sealing ring. Placing old shield on injector will help to see when you have a gap of about 0.5mm.
I would suggest for all those doubters, then let's do a world wide experiment. Take a heat shield , new or one use old, and using the above method reshape and clamp back down in a spare head. Repeat until shield dies. I bet we will get 15+ out of them. This is an Urban Myth that I want to quash, that they are one use only.
Just because the Bentley says so doesn't make it right. The 'B' says what VAG says... and VAG was on the same learning curve as the rest of us
If several of us do the same experiment then we will get the answer for sure, just like the Injector shim needing to be special, and with a hole in the middle and only available by special order etc etc. They just need to be hard, for resistance to spread purposes; the nozzle tip does that in any event
Use $2 tape measure springs and make little disks out of them to add into weak injectors. They in turn can be heated up and hit for fine adjustment.
"I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD )
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD )
-
- Hillbilly Tuner
- Posts: 2424
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 10:11 am
- Location: Near Lund B.C. Kanada.
Injector removal.
Diesel_Rabbit : here at hagar's we use impact tools on stubborn Injectors..
Then lots of metal lube on installation.
Read Vincent carefully.
hagar.
Then lots of metal lube on installation.
Read Vincent carefully.
hagar.
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- Turbo Charger
- Posts: 2085
- Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2006 4:34 pm
- Location: Gloucester; Limey-Land
Impact tool good, but just be careful not to over torque and rip the threads out, this can happen if threads are gummed badly.
I wonder if anyone has accidentally overtightened when intending to undo?
It would only take one nagging partner...
I wonder if anyone has accidentally overtightened when intending to undo?
It would only take one nagging partner...
"I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD )
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD )
-
- Hillbilly Tuner
- Posts: 2424
- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 10:11 am
- Location: Near Lund B.C. Kanada.
Injector tool for removal.
Mark Shepperd , Yes stripping is a valid concern. BUT a long time ago coke mentioned PB blaster and let it soak in.
It works , read my lips. BUT a bit of horsing around is a good thing..
A stubborn one is hard to do. , and Mark is right DO NOT STRIP THE THREAD..
hagar.
It works , read my lips. BUT a bit of horsing around is a good thing..
A stubborn one is hard to do. , and Mark is right DO NOT STRIP THE THREAD..
hagar.
Completely agree with Hagar's suggestion to lube threads prior to installing injectors; 50 ft/lbs torque reading won't be accurate any other way. Personal favorite is the bronze dust-looking anti-seize grease. Brand... maybe Loctite? Conservatively applied it also works on spark plugs for gassers, as well as oxygen sensors, thermal fan switches, etc.
J.R.
SoCal
SoCal
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- Diesel Freak
- Posts: 132
- Joined: Sun Feb 13, 2005 10:16 pm
- Location: Maine, USA
thank you
with all your help, go the injectors swapped out tonight with new heat shields. I did forget the anti-sieze, so will remove and apply before firing up.
thank you!!
thank you!!
------------------------------------
2003 Jetta TDI Wagon 5sp, 135,000 mi
1984 Rabbit diesel, 240,000 mi, wvo conversion
1985 Yanmar YM146 diesel, 1650 hrs, wvo conversion
2003 Jetta TDI Wagon 5sp, 135,000 mi
1984 Rabbit diesel, 240,000 mi, wvo conversion
1985 Yanmar YM146 diesel, 1650 hrs, wvo conversion
Re: thank you
You'll need to use another set of heat shields then. They're a use only once (unless reshaped). If it were me, I'd leave them in for now and when the next time you pull them out, then anti-sieze them.Diesel_Rabbit wrote:with all your help, go the injectors swapped out tonight with new heat shields. I did forget the anti-sieze, so will remove and apply before firing up.
Everybody else lists their cars here - but not me.
I have too many to count
I have too many to count