My alternator idler pulley had some lateral play in it and I suspected it was making the noise I was hearing between 2800 and 2900 RPMs, so I wanted to replace it. The dealer lists this as NLA (unobtanium). They want over $200. I said, "Nein Danke".
The pulley is part # 068 260 940 for my 1986 Jetta Turbo Diesel.
I took the pulley to a dealer in bearings in San Leandro, CA (Bearing Engineering Co.). They sold me a radial ball bearing (62022RS C3 ORS, made in Turkey) with the following dimensions; 15mm ID, 35mm OD, and 11mm W. Then I took this to a machinist they referred me to who pressed the old one out and the new one in. This pressing only requires a couple hundred pounds. I would guess 100 - 200 lbs... No need to get carried away.
With these bearing dimensions in hand, you can source your replacement bearings locally or even remotely without having to repeatedly remove and reinstall the pulley, and without guesswork.
Bottom line: refreshed bearings total cost $35 tax inclusive. This eliminated one of the vibration sounds I was hearing at 2800 - 2900 RPMs. Now I am less worried about the shaft and impeller on my turbo.
Alternator Idler Pulley Bearing Replacement
Moderator: Fatmobile
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- Glow Plug
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Alternator Idler Pulley Bearing Replacement
Mr. Natural
1986 VW Jetta GL Turbo Diesel
1986 VW Jetta GL Turbo Diesel
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Cool guys; I knew it wasn't rocket science. Do you recall the part number of the Nachi ("Neki"?) bearing?Quantum TD wrote:Yep. I try to get the Nachi bearings. They're Japanese and hold up well. You can find the bearings online at VXB Bearings. I just punch them out with a hammer and socket, and then press them in with my vice.
I think I pay about $4/bearing after shipping. Cheep.
TIA
J.R.
SoCal
SoCal
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- Turbo Charger
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Here's a generic number for the bearing:vwtyp133 wrote:Cool guys; I knew it wasn't rocket science. Do you recall the part number of the Nachi ("Neki"?) bearing?Quantum TD wrote:Yep. I try to get the Nachi bearings. They're Japanese and hold up well. You can find the bearings online at VXB Bearings. I just punch them out with a hammer and socket, and then press them in with my vice.
I think I pay about $4/bearing after shipping. Cheep.
TIA
6202 2RS
The first 4 numbers denote the size of the bearing. The "2RS" means "Two Rubber Seals" (for the seals on either side of the bearing). In searching for a bearing for the idler on my Tacoma, I found a page with interchange info, but I can't seem to find it.
But, I think the Nachi number 6202 2NSE
They're more expensive than the generics that VXB sells (about 3-4X more expensive), but I've found that the generics tend to wear out faster. For example, I installed a new on a car a sold to a friend. It wore out in about 2 years (about 25k). The quality on the Nachi looks alot better. We'll see how they hold up on my Tacoma.
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- Diesel Freak
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Re: Alternator Idler Pulley Bearing Replacement
I know, really old post. Just wanted to say how helpful this post is!! Thanks!
`86 Volkswagen Jetta NA with 9 gallon marine tank, transmission cooler tank heater, TIH, FPHE, VegTherm, Line Heater Specialist Injector Heaters on Injector Lines
Everyone should read "Ishmael" by Daniel Quinn
Everyone should read "Ishmael" by Daniel Quinn
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- Turbo Charger
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Re: Alternator Idler Pulley Bearing Replacement
Ja, it helps.
Arizona had those up to last year, IIRC. too bad they are getting scarce.
Arizona had those up to last year, IIRC. too bad they are getting scarce.
Have a nice day.
'91 Jetta ECOdiesel TD - clean & complete (less motor/tranny) for sale
'82 Westy Vanagon 1.9 N/A - 23.5mpg
'86 Jetta TD - 45-50mpg
'81 Dasher Wagon 1.6 N/A - 52mpg
'84 Wasserboxer - DOA, parts donor
'94 Passat wagon VR6
'03 Jetta TDI wagon 230K, 52.3mpg
'89 Jetta N/A - 51mpg
'82 Caddy 1.6 N/A - Sold
'91 Jetta ECOdiesel TD - clean & complete (less motor/tranny) for sale
'82 Westy Vanagon 1.9 N/A - 23.5mpg
'86 Jetta TD - 45-50mpg
'81 Dasher Wagon 1.6 N/A - 52mpg
'84 Wasserboxer - DOA, parts donor
'94 Passat wagon VR6
'03 Jetta TDI wagon 230K, 52.3mpg
'89 Jetta N/A - 51mpg
'82 Caddy 1.6 N/A - Sold