97 MK3 Jetta TD - Rear Wheel Bearing Gets loose 150km - w/Pl
Moderator: Fatmobile
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Golf/Jetta
- Turbo Charger
- Posts: 403
- Joined: Sat Sep 27, 2003 8:42 pm
- Location: Ottawa Region
97 MK3 Jetta TD - Rear Wheel Bearing Gets loose 150km - w/Pl
I recently replaced my rear wheels bearings after 2 years of service of tightening tightening season after season. (result in cracking chipping). replaced them with NEW OEM bearing, greased and packed the **** out of them. Tighten, rolled, loosened, tighten, rolled, loosened, and tightened back up to snug, till there was no play (10ft. lbs). nice ride home (wet road).. now after 150km on them, they decided to get a little noisy (dry roads). Jacked up the front and found no play.. Jacked up the rear and a little play was found on both side. WTF. never had this problem till i got this car.. my 87, 92, and 94 doesn't do this.
'94 City Jetta - 4 Dr - 2.0 Gasser
'97 Jetta - 4 Dr - 1.9 TD
1.6L N/A Diesel Engine with a ACH Tranny
Sold for 200 '92 Jetta (WolfsBurg) - 4Dr - 1.6 Diesel TD 1.9L - Alive
'97 Jetta - 4 Dr - 1.9 TD
1.6L N/A Diesel Engine with a ACH Tranny
Sold for 200 '92 Jetta (WolfsBurg) - 4Dr - 1.6 Diesel TD 1.9L - Alive
I don't know what the Bentley manual says, but I think the 10 ft/lbs is the issue. I tighten and loosen like you do a few times, then snug to where the wheel starts to catch and drag when spinning it, then back the lock nut off to the next loosest hole for the pin to go into. I don't torque the rear bearing nuts at all.
Everybody else lists their cars here - but not me.
I have too many to count
I have too many to count
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Golf/Jetta
- Turbo Charger
- Posts: 403
- Joined: Sat Sep 27, 2003 8:42 pm
- Location: Ottawa Region
I'm guessing at the torque i'm giving her. I just know it's lighter then doing the cam nuts which is 15ft. lbs. The noise i'm hearing is coming from the front.. finally. more noise on the passenger side the the driver but no play... think my tran bearings is going for a shit. might be due for the fact its leak oil near the axel's, spinning off.. I'll have to see how much is missing. Good thing this one is screwed up enough that reverse jumps out and second is 1/4 way there..
'94 City Jetta - 4 Dr - 2.0 Gasser
'97 Jetta - 4 Dr - 1.9 TD
1.6L N/A Diesel Engine with a ACH Tranny
Sold for 200 '92 Jetta (WolfsBurg) - 4Dr - 1.6 Diesel TD 1.9L - Alive
'97 Jetta - 4 Dr - 1.9 TD
1.6L N/A Diesel Engine with a ACH Tranny
Sold for 200 '92 Jetta (WolfsBurg) - 4Dr - 1.6 Diesel TD 1.9L - Alive
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vanbcguy
- Turbo Charger
- Posts: 209
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2008 12:31 pm
- Location: Vancouver, BC
- Contact:
I'm with 82vdub - I put NO torque whatsoever on the retaining nuts. I had a shop teacher who went by "tighten to snug, back off 1/2 turn, put cotter pin through closest hole by loosening only".
Shouldn't have any play if you do that, any tighter and the bearings will go in no time.
Shouldn't have any play if you do that, any tighter and the bearings will go in no time.
-Bryn
1994 Jetta with a 1988ish 1.6TD - Jezebelle Jetta
1994 Jetta - 1.8 Monomotronic - Gertrude Jetta
1994 Jetta with a 1988ish 1.6TD - Jezebelle Jetta
1994 Jetta - 1.8 Monomotronic - Gertrude Jetta
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Vincent Waldon
- Turbo Charger
- Posts: 1148
- Joined: Sat Dec 16, 2006 3:05 pm
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
The Bentley is actually pretty specific on the correct adjustment proceedure for the rear bearings:
Adjusting Rear Wheel Bearings
The rear wheel tapered roller bearings must be adjusted to work smoothly and minimize wear. This adjustment must be made any time the rear brake drum or rotor has been removed. Other periodic bearing adjustments to compensate for wear may help to increase bearing life or give early warning of excessive wear and the need for replacement. The only materials needed are a little extra multipurpose grease for the grease cap, and new cotter pins.
To adjust:
1. Raise the rear of the car, support it securely on jack stands which are designed for the purpose, and remove the wheel.
2. Carefully pry off the grease cap in the center of the brake drum or disc, remove the cotter pin and nut lock, and then loosen the axle nut.
3. If the wheel bearings, especially new ones, have just been installed, temporarily torque the axle nut to 10 Nm (87 in. lb.), while turning the brake drum or rotor by hand. Then loosen the nut slightly.
CAUTION-
Avoid overtorquing the axle nut, as this may damage the bearings and bearing races.
4. Tighten the axle nut again, slowly and in small increments while turning the wheel, until the thrust washer can just barely be moved back and forth with a light push on the tip of a screwdriver, as shown in Fig. 6-6.
NOTE-
Do not twist or pry with the screwdriver. Use hand pressure only.
Fig. 6-6. Wheel bearing adjustment being checked. Axle nut is tightened correctly when thrust washer moves only with slight pressure.
5. After the wheel bearings are correctly adjusted, install the nut lock so that its projections do not cover the cotter pin hole. If necessary, tighten the axle nut slightly so that the nut lock will align with the hole in the stub axle. Then install a new cotter pin
Adjusting Rear Wheel Bearings
The rear wheel tapered roller bearings must be adjusted to work smoothly and minimize wear. This adjustment must be made any time the rear brake drum or rotor has been removed. Other periodic bearing adjustments to compensate for wear may help to increase bearing life or give early warning of excessive wear and the need for replacement. The only materials needed are a little extra multipurpose grease for the grease cap, and new cotter pins.
To adjust:
1. Raise the rear of the car, support it securely on jack stands which are designed for the purpose, and remove the wheel.
2. Carefully pry off the grease cap in the center of the brake drum or disc, remove the cotter pin and nut lock, and then loosen the axle nut.
3. If the wheel bearings, especially new ones, have just been installed, temporarily torque the axle nut to 10 Nm (87 in. lb.), while turning the brake drum or rotor by hand. Then loosen the nut slightly.
CAUTION-
Avoid overtorquing the axle nut, as this may damage the bearings and bearing races.
4. Tighten the axle nut again, slowly and in small increments while turning the wheel, until the thrust washer can just barely be moved back and forth with a light push on the tip of a screwdriver, as shown in Fig. 6-6.
NOTE-
Do not twist or pry with the screwdriver. Use hand pressure only.
Fig. 6-6. Wheel bearing adjustment being checked. Axle nut is tightened correctly when thrust washer moves only with slight pressure.
5. After the wheel bearings are correctly adjusted, install the nut lock so that its projections do not cover the cotter pin hole. If necessary, tighten the axle nut slightly so that the nut lock will align with the hole in the stub axle. Then install a new cotter pin
Vince
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3
1970 Bay Window bus
Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta
Here's a small collection of HOW-TOs
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3
1970 Bay Window bus
Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta
Here's a small collection of HOW-TOs
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Quantum-man
- Turbo Charger
- Posts: 2085
- Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2006 4:34 pm
- Location: Gloucester; Limey-Land
Mr Golf/Jetta, torqueing up the rear mk2 bearings are condeming them to early death.
The reason that you feel that you need to do this is because overtightened bearings in the past have been rotating on the stub axle. This has now a smaller diameter than it should.
A clever solution is to 'spring punch' a few dots on the stub axle to raise the diameter slightly.
Don't overdo this or you will not be able to get the drum off easily in the future...
The reason that you feel that you need to do this is because overtightened bearings in the past have been rotating on the stub axle. This has now a smaller diameter than it should.
A clever solution is to 'spring punch' a few dots on the stub axle to raise the diameter slightly.
Don't overdo this or you will not be able to get the drum off easily in the future...
"I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD
)
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD
)