We had a cold spell about a week ago here. that finnaly forced me to replace my glow plugs(w/ duraterms),
I tested my old ones and they where only drawing about 11amps max and down to about 9 together.
The prev owner had changed the 2 easy ones with autometer?
They were both fried, but the two others were the original ones
One was made in Germany, the other in W.Germany.strange they wherent made in the same era.
Anyways to get to my real question
I got the job done but now my car idles higher and it runs hotter( needle pointing straight up towards the LED)
I sounds like the cold start lever is stuck on, but I played around with the the cold start lever, since its location made it very probable that I moved it trying to get the gp's out. But nothing changed, I can only get it to idle higher? I dont want to mess with the other screws since I hadn't touched them. I dont know there purposes well enough to mess around with them
anybody got any ideas to what happened?
thanks for any help
1989 jetta td
Higher idle runs hotter, what happened?
Moderator: Fatmobile
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coke
The idle mechanism thats attached to the cold start lever moves a see-saw type device. Did you get something stuck in that? Did you move the pump at all to gain better access to the plugs?
There are several things that could've caused this, but they're all guesses. Were any of the glow plugs unusually loose? You didn't turn the big long screw that sticks straight up from the pump that has a long spring under it did you?
Did something get jammed under the bottom of the cold start lever that isn't letting it go down all the way? You said TD, but is it a true turbo diesel (LDA on top of the pump) or is it the eco diesel?
There are several things that could've caused this, but they're all guesses. Were any of the glow plugs unusually loose? You didn't turn the big long screw that sticks straight up from the pump that has a long spring under it did you?
Did something get jammed under the bottom of the cold start lever that isn't letting it go down all the way? You said TD, but is it a true turbo diesel (LDA on top of the pump) or is it the eco diesel?
I did not move pump or injectors.. nothing stuck under..
all glow plugs where intact and fine on the way out.
they all went in nicely too
I tried moving the seesaw device back and forth but idle only goes up.
Its not eco diesel( there is an LDA) I cut an inche of the lda-turbo hose because it was so frayed, im sure it was leaking.
as a last resort before posting this I tried playing with the long spring screw beside the coldstart level but it did not do anything
all glow plugs where intact and fine on the way out.
they all went in nicely too
I tried moving the seesaw device back and forth but idle only goes up.
Its not eco diesel( there is an LDA) I cut an inche of the lda-turbo hose because it was so frayed, im sure it was leaking.
as a last resort before posting this I tried playing with the long spring screw beside the coldstart level but it did not do anything
i screwed up big time, I tried unscrewing that screw but nothing was happening,so I kept turning it. then bam, it all came apart!!
soo ive been stressing all morning with little springs and the black plastic piece that receives the screw and got it back together, now, the car starts fine BUT it wont run without holding the accelerator down a little bit,
the black plastic screw holder is shaped like an L that pivots up and down so I thought maybe the L went the other way, so I took it back apart ( wich i really did not want to do) and put it back together the other way and it still does the same!! omg... I hate working in tight spaces like between the block and IP.I just want this to be over with..
yes i tried messing with the screws both ways and the pushing and pulling with the whole lever assembly both ways..
soo ive been stressing all morning with little springs and the black plastic piece that receives the screw and got it back together, now, the car starts fine BUT it wont run without holding the accelerator down a little bit,
the black plastic screw holder is shaped like an L that pivots up and down so I thought maybe the L went the other way, so I took it back apart ( wich i really did not want to do) and put it back together the other way and it still does the same!! omg... I hate working in tight spaces like between the block and IP.I just want this to be over with..
yes i tried messing with the screws both ways and the pushing and pulling with the whole lever assembly both ways..
If you can't get the springs on the backside of the IP back on, you should be able to adjust the idle screw on the top for the main idle to compensate for this. After about 85, they added the RPM kick up mechanism on the back of the IP's so when you pull the cold start lever it upps the RPM's a bit. My 82 doesn't have this, and if you can't get those springs back on, you can likely adjust this by the screws on top of the IP.
Everybody else lists their cars here - but not me.
I have too many to count
I have too many to count
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coke
i got themback on, now for the 3rd time I put them back on the way i put them on the 1st time, (looks right that way).
I tried what 82vub said, I thought about doing it too, but was worried that the timing would be off, and it would just be a bandaid.. i tried adjusting the min idle screw up and it worked... should I not drive it like that.
I tried what 82vub said, I thought about doing it too, but was worried that the timing would be off, and it would just be a bandaid.. i tried adjusting the min idle screw up and it worked... should I not drive it like that.
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coke
What do you mean, min idle screw? The threaded screw with a 10mm locknut, or the screw with the spring on the back of the pump?
You're supposed to adjust idle with the screw on the back with the long spring , which I believe is what exploded on you. The one that used to be to adjust idle on the later pumps is used to adjust residual fuel pressure, which is the fuel pressure left inside the pump when you let off the accelerator suddenly.
You're supposed to adjust idle with the screw on the back with the long spring , which I believe is what exploded on you. The one that used to be to adjust idle on the later pumps is used to adjust residual fuel pressure, which is the fuel pressure left inside the pump when you let off the accelerator suddenly.
The problem is now, that the one that exploded doesnt and never did(before explosion too) do anything to change the idle, no matter how far I turned it.
uhoh, I did mess around with the residual fuel pressure screw... to me, visually it looked like a min idle screw with the way the screw could be adjusted to act as a stopper for the accelerator cable/pedal. It got the car drivable again though...although something still doesnt seem right(fuel timing)...
(the screw/spring from the back of the pump is back together properly)
( I will return the residual pressure screw to what it was originally too.)
uhoh, I did mess around with the residual fuel pressure screw... to me, visually it looked like a min idle screw with the way the screw could be adjusted to act as a stopper for the accelerator cable/pedal. It got the car drivable again though...although something still doesnt seem right(fuel timing)...
(the screw/spring from the back of the pump is back together properly)
( I will return the residual pressure screw to what it was originally too.)
Re: Higher idle runs hotter, what happened?
I'm having a similar problem:
I got an AAZ from a '95 Golf, put it in my Kubvan (and then removed, rebuilt, and re-installed, dammit).
The engine idles very high, almost 2K; it idled normal in the Golf. I backed-out what was obviously the idle screw, then learned in these pages that that was the residual fuel adjustment. I had left the lock-nut (it wasn't a tamper-proof) in the same place on the screw, so I was able to return it to the exact same spot. I tried to adjust idle with that strut on the cold-start lever, and the minimum idle stop screw.
I adjusted the idle speed adjusting screw (that strut) until it came out, and turned the minimum idle stop screw all the way out, with the idle lever against aluminum. When the engine is fully warm, it still idles at (iirc) ~1400, but more like 900 when cold (CS pushed in).
Now, this engine is running just awful right now (maybe more on that elsewhere: white smoke, irregular idle...) with the fresh rebuild, but this was happening before the rebuild too; though not when it was in the Golf. The difference most likely contributing to this is, maybe, that I do not have the wiring for the "injection start positioner" connected. Would it have kicked in at idle speeds to retard the timing, and would that lower the idle?
The other difference is that the injection timing was .74 when it was in the Golf, I have it at .89mm now. And the cam timing was way off before, it is dead-on now.
If I run out of adjustment at the idle screw should I adjust the residual fuel volume?
does that idle control lever work on the governor itself rather than fuel flow? Does this implicate IP internal pressure? I have a new Bosch fuel filter, I think I chased down all the leaks of air into fuel. I see no cause of restriction from the tank.
a lifetime of worn-out old 1.6D VWs took such good care of me. Now I give this one everything it wants, and it just hates me
I got an AAZ from a '95 Golf, put it in my Kubvan (and then removed, rebuilt, and re-installed, dammit).
The engine idles very high, almost 2K; it idled normal in the Golf. I backed-out what was obviously the idle screw, then learned in these pages that that was the residual fuel adjustment. I had left the lock-nut (it wasn't a tamper-proof) in the same place on the screw, so I was able to return it to the exact same spot. I tried to adjust idle with that strut on the cold-start lever, and the minimum idle stop screw.
I adjusted the idle speed adjusting screw (that strut) until it came out, and turned the minimum idle stop screw all the way out, with the idle lever against aluminum. When the engine is fully warm, it still idles at (iirc) ~1400, but more like 900 when cold (CS pushed in).
Now, this engine is running just awful right now (maybe more on that elsewhere: white smoke, irregular idle...) with the fresh rebuild, but this was happening before the rebuild too; though not when it was in the Golf. The difference most likely contributing to this is, maybe, that I do not have the wiring for the "injection start positioner" connected. Would it have kicked in at idle speeds to retard the timing, and would that lower the idle?
The other difference is that the injection timing was .74 when it was in the Golf, I have it at .89mm now. And the cam timing was way off before, it is dead-on now.
If I run out of adjustment at the idle screw should I adjust the residual fuel volume?
does that idle control lever work on the governor itself rather than fuel flow? Does this implicate IP internal pressure? I have a new Bosch fuel filter, I think I chased down all the leaks of air into fuel. I see no cause of restriction from the tank.
a lifetime of worn-out old 1.6D VWs took such good care of me. Now I give this one everything it wants, and it just hates me