1981 1.6D rabbit freshening

[bigger daddy]

I already have the IP off for a re-seal(DIY) Injectors are out awaiting to be redone. It is an 11mm engine. the car was put away running about 5 years ago, but doesnt run at all now. Not sure how heavy I'm gonna get into the motor. I don't have the dough for a rebuild. I suppose it has a ton to do with what condition the head is in, if thats toast I junk it and look for a running 1.6 to toss in there. If its OK we freshen the head up and do a HG and go from there. I am experienced in the MK1 world but this is my first diesel.
Odometer reads 240K, its a 4dr LS no AC

[coke]

Don't mean to rain on your parade, but those 11mm blocks were junk, and I mean _junk_. If you can get it running without major engine work (head gasket, etc) than thats one thing, but not worth putting a bunch of money into when you could put it in a real engine that'll last you.

If you plan on keeping the car for a while, might be a good idea to start searching for a 1.6L 12mm. They are virtually indestructible.

[bigger daddy]

Not raining yet but I do have sources for engines/heads etc so I'm def not goin to sink a ton on this one.

[coke]

Thats a wise move. Hope you get it running. I have a friend whose been a mechanic since he could turn a wrench (He's in his 60's now) and he'll take anything as a gift, except a 11mm engine.

[82vdub]

If you do pull the head, you absolutely must use head studs on an 11mm motor to have much chance of it lasting. You will also need to very closely check the areas around the bolt holes in the block for cracks from a previous bolt replacement job. If they aren't cracked, I'd say get studs and go for it.

[VW Jon]

I've never had a problem with 11mm engines, and I've been driving VWs for 20 years. I don't use head studs either.

[veedubya]

If you want to see some detail pics of the 1.5D threads or major differences vs the 1.6D check out my other post here with a click link

I started the rebuild on my 1.5D but learned of the 11mm issue and switched to my spare 1.6D. I still plan to finish the 1.5D but I'll wait until I find some 10-12 grade 11mm long studs at a reasonable price (not ARP $150-200, too rich for me ).

Just curious, anyone know what else makes/would make the 11mm blocks inferior? Acknowledging the smaller oil drain, llmm, was there anything else? I mean, like the old air cooled early blocks sometimes getting inferior metal when manufactured in Mexico creating weak blocks, ..anything like that?

[bigger daddy]

I would also like to know any other KNOWN flaws in this block

[joat]

pour a couple of ounces of diesel fuel or tranny fluid or penetrating oil into each cylinder BEFORE you try to spin the engine. let it sit a couple of hours to loosen up the rust and gunk around the rings and lube things up. then try to spin the engine with the starter ( injectors out )

if you don't do it , the rings will lock in place on the pistons and you will have zero compression.

thanks to steel rings on aluminum pistons in steel bores ....

[bigger daddy]

I put a bit of kerosene and PB in each cylinder before cranking (let it sit a day) spins good, oil pump primed and no lifters stuck I removed the injection pump for a teardown and re-seal and it appears that the sleeve that the cold start lever rotates in the base of the pump is frozen due to a frozen pin on the inside of the pump (clip removed, tiny pin removed) I cannot get this pin out (its soaking in parts cleaner) so far all things internally look OK except for 1 roller thats kinda rusty

[bigger daddy]

Pin out or should I say free enough to get the cold start mechanism out. I do believe this pump has never been apart. Instead of the top housing being held on with allen or torx, they are attached with flathead machine bolts and are becoming a serious pain in my behind. Throttle linkage is off(pictures taken before dis-assembly) so I know how I put it all together.

[coke]

Pictures are great, but did you mark the shaft where you took it off so you can be certain it goes back on the same way? This is one of the leading causes of disassembly problems.

[bigger daddy]

nope on the marking damnit!

[bigger daddy]

Rebuilt and installed the injectors and pump this weekend, in between snow storms....I ran out of time to put the timing belt on. I did decide to replace the cam seal as it was toast. I used all Viton return lines on the injectors from Grease Works. I still have to replace the rubber return line piece (pump to the hard line to the tank) as it was rotten. I also need to install the vacuum pump that I rebuilt. Also new alternator belt.

Rebuilt injectors


And the rebuilt pump



Just need a few hours to get her gone!

[Fatmobile]

I suggest a clear line from the pump, going back to the tank.
It helps diagnose air leaks.

If you are going to use the rubber valve cover gasket,
you'll need to swap in studs without shoulders,.. I like long set screws because of they can be installed with an allen wrench.

The later injection pumps had a blade on the stop solenoid, so you can plug the power wire into it,.. or unplug it quickly to stop the engine.

The alternator bracket doesn't look like it has the small bracket that supports the upper timing belt cover,.. or I see it in the first pic but not the second.

What kind of fuel filter is that?

Did you change the hose from the head to the water pump?
It looks soft at the bottom.
That hose is a common problem, lots of heat, oil and diesel can make it weak.