85 Golf engine and turbo

coke · Post by **coke** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 3:25 am

He'll have to use the 1.6 timing cover anyways, because he'll have to swap IP brackets from his 1.6 to eliminate the A1 passenger side fender mount. So it shouldn't be much of an issue at all.

Post by **Fatmobile** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 6:12 pm

The only 1.6 involved is the Golf engine he is removing.
,.. and that upper timing belt cover won't work on a MK1.

Everything else is 1.5.

coke · Post by **coke** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 6:13 pm

Isn't he swapping the 1.5 from an old Rabbit into his 85 Golf, which is an MK2, thereby necessitating the swapping of injection pump bracket + timing cover components?

Post by **Fatmobile** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 6:20 pm

Ah, yep you are right.
All the A2 brackets and covers should stay with that car,..
including the 1.6 upper timing belt cover.

I'm guessing he didn't swap that tin cover over,.. the one that the upper timing belt cover clips to.

coke · Post by **coke** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 6:24 pm

I hate that tin cover. I loved the older timing belt cover much better, but I'm stuck with what I got.

I got another thread toying with the idea of turbocharging my NA to make it an "eco" diesel, for pure economic gains, but I may just swap the transmission.

Fatmobile, you have some knowledge on transmissions and whatnot, would you mind commenting on my tranny inquiries in that thread in General when you get a sec?

79 300sd · Post by **79 300sd** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:41 pm

I left the mk2 timing cover and injection pump bracket on the 1.6 that I pulled out. I figured leave the mk1 cover with the mk1 engine, because it is just temporary. The motor mount was the first thing I took the plasma cutter to. I had seen it cut off in some other threads and figured "why not". I didn't expect clearance issues for the alternator/air conditioning bracket, but I think it worked out ok, just missing the bolt hole towards the front of the mk1 timing cover and the corresponding hole in the injection pump bracket. If it rattles I'll find a new spot at the front to weld on an ear for support.

The mk2 covers will stay with the car after I rebuild the 1.6. Actually I'll have my 8yr old son helping me with the rebuild and plan to even teach him how to time the motor and pump. He is very gifted mechanically like I was at that age. Hopefully we will do it in the spring when things are warmer and his broken arm/bone graft is fully healed. He knows I'm putting the turbo on during the engine swap and has asked if we can put a turbo on his go kart next....lol

I'm off for a three day weekend and hope to have a huge amount of progress tomorrow.

79 300sd · Post by **79 300sd** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 10:24 pm

First......I want to thank you guys for prompting me to check the auxiliary/intermediate shaft bearings.

I chucked up a piece of 1" pipe in the lathe and just used a file and emery cloth to make the 1" pipe caps into bushing/bearing drivers.

I used part of an inner tie rod from a dodge intrepid and a 1" to 1/2" reducer to finish making the driver. Just a few light taps with a hammer and the bearings were out.

A close up of the bearing closest to the pulley.

The inner bearing ready to install. I pulled the vacuum pump and the oil filter adapter to have a good view and make sure things were lined up properly. The green stuff is an assembly lube that I have used in transmissions for years. It is thick and held the bearing in place on the driver during installation.

The big surprise was the pulley. It looks like it took a pretty hard hit sometime in its life. I couldn't use it, so I took the one off of the 1.6.

And the shaft is back in along with a new seal.

79 300sd · Post by **79 300sd** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 10:39 pm

I got the engine in the car and hanging on the mounts.

I had to grind on the exhaust manifold because it interfered with the intake just a little. I think I must be mounting it upside down from the normal way. I had to grind next to the bolt holes. You can see that in this picture I have ground the lower left but not the upper left (yet) to make it match the profile on the right side.

I also got the down pipe fit up and tacked together.

That was about all I accomplished in a little over 8 hours today. I did lose an hour running out to lowes for pipe caps. I'd guess it took about two hours to make them into bearing drivers. The down pipe seemed to take forever too. I had to cut each piece multiple times to get it to clear the shift linkage. I'm hoping the intake piping will go quick tomorrow and I can hear it run.....might wait on the rest of the exhaust if it sounds pretty good.

Post by **Fatmobile** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 11:18 pm

When someone starts one of these projects I always wonder what their skill level is and if this could end up being an overwhelming task for them.

I don't like to tell people their I-shaft bearings are probably toast and will need changed but it looks like you've dealt with the info very well.

You mentioned changing the I-shaft seal,.
?? what about the o-ring?
Sometimes it's such a hard piece of black, stuck to the seal carrier,.. it looks like a piece of the carrier.

79 300sd · Post by **79 300sd** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 12:48 am

This project is not overwhelming at all. I guess that is hard to see over the internet. I studied mechanical engineering at Georgia Tech for a little over two years before dropping out and going to work for a German industrial filtration company as their manager of field services for North America. The term manager was kinda misleading as I was the only one in that department, which meant I had to oversee the installation and start up of all of the electrical, mechanical, and hydraulics for these systems. I even had to do a bit of plc programming. When I left that company I started my own auto repair business and operated that for several years. I still own the property and use it as my hobby shop now. I'm currently employed through the crane operators union as a mechanic.

I'm glad I went ahead and followed the advice to check the bearings. It was just a little time that was very well spent. Sure does give me some piece of mind to know that they are new! I didn't change the o-ring because the old one was still very flexible and in like new condition. I think it was green.....don't remember for sure.

I had an eight year old helper this afternoon who was very very talkative. We did finish welding up the down pipe and have it installed. We also modified the mercedes turbo drain pipe, and welded a nipple on the oil pan. I ran out of gas for the mig and had to switch to flux core to finish out the drain connections. I really hate running flux core and didn't trust that the welds would be oil tight, so I put a layer of jb weld over them to make sure they wouldn't seep.

We scraped the gasket from the oil pan and block, started cutting out the new adapter for the intake, and talked a LOT about the things that a boy that age notices around a place like that....lol

I still need to:
- Install the oil feed line
- Finish the intake piping
- Install the alt and a/c compressor and belts
- Install the oil pan
- New oil and filter
- Fill trans with synthetic 80w90
- Connect clutch cable
- Connect wiring
- Connect coolant hoses and fill with coolant
- Install cv axles
- Maybe put some exhaust on it.....or maybe wait a while if it isn't too loud

79 300sd · Post by **79 300sd** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:25 pm

I worked at the shop most of the afternoon and evening. Got most of the list done.

Oil pan cleaned

Cleaned the oil pickup screen and wiped up what I could get to......maybe tobys butt won't come back.

Did a little work on the intake adapter. Still need to finish it and run the intake piping.

Ran some exhaust. Still need to make some hangers and fit up the tailpipe.

Finished the drain line. Used some 1/2" hydraulic hose.

Installed a new passenger cv axle.

Got all of the wiring and hoses hooked up and ran the oil feed line to the turbo.

Still need to:
- Install drivers side cv axle
- Make some exhaust hangers
- Finish intake piping

Even with the few items left to do, I started it up and ran it for a few minutes today.

It didn't spin the turbo. This was a known good one that has sat on the shelf for a few years and moisture got to it. The exhaust housing has some rust and I couldn't turn it by hand. After running for a few minutes, it turns by hand some. I really liked how this one used to spool so quick in the old mercedes, so I'm hoping that with some run time it will free up. I have other good spares if it doesn't.

surfcam · Post by **surfcam** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 1:14 am

Looks like your going full speed ahead and having fun. Niece to have little helpers. I just thought I mention that VW trannies take GL-4 oil. Its sometimes a little harder to find because the newer trannies all take GL-5 which can damage the brass parts in the tranny over time. The only oil I can find in my neck of the woods is RED LINE MT-90 SAE 75W90 synthetic oil.

79 300sd · Post by **79 300sd** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:23 pm

Thanks. I had read about the oil a while back and had forgotten. I checked the bulk tanks at work today (where I got the oil) and all of the synthetic was GL-5. Guess I'll have to see if the redline or another GL-4 synthetic is available locally.

The little helpers are fun. It seems like just yesterday that my oldest girl, who is now 15, was into doing stuff like that with me. When she was about four she would have me dump out buckets of nuts and bolts so we could sort them by size.

I didn't go to my shop to work on the car today. Had to work a couple of hours over at my job and was too tired. Hopefully tomorrow.

coke · Post by **coke** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:49 pm

I heard a lot of good things about GM Syncromesh. It lacks an API rating, but alot of people have used it.

I'm using Redline MTL in my transmission, but I'm trying to find out of the GM Syncromesh is fine for our transmissions so when I change to the AGS in february, I'll use that instead of redline.

79 300sd · Post by **79 300sd** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:37 pm

I had put in Shell Spirax ASXR 75W90, and can't find much info about it on the net. The barrel did say GL-5 though.

I did a little research on the GM synchromesh, and it looks like many have had good results. I also found some who say the Pennzoil synchromesh is the same and even has the same part number. It appears that both work well with yellow metals and offer improved shifting. I found this thread at another site interesting: http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine ... fluid.html

I think post 8 says that the pennzoil synchromesh states on the bottle that it is yellow metal friendly. It is available at my local advance for 7.49 a bottle. I guess I'll get some tomorrow.