1981 Rabbit Motor Rebuild 1.6D NA

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Gecko
Glow Plug
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Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 3:18 pm
Location: Seattle

1981 Rabbit Motor Rebuild 1.6D NA

Post by Gecko »

Starting into my first time rebuilding a diesel and would love to get some assistance and advice from the VW-Diesel-Parts forum masters.

The engine that is in the car was running well until the previous owner (PO) started finding the coolant tank filling with oil. She kept driving it and had it over heat a few times. Eventually the engine started making a popping noise and when I looked at it the car started and ran but the head gasket was blown.

It is now in my garage and I plan on pulling the motor and transferring the engine accessories to a recently purchased long block. Before I do that I would love to get some advice on what I should do to the head and block before I transplant.

Things I was thinking about:

- check head deck for flatness
- check head for cracks
- possibly send head out for reman with new valves and springs (not sure how to assess this is needed)
- new head gasket
- 12mm head bolts do I need new ones? are these stretch bolts?
- replace cam shaft seal?
- anything to do with the cams?

- check block deck for flatness and cracks (should I magnaflux is that expensive?)
- replace oil pan gasket?
- other seals?
- should I hone the cylinders
- replace bearings?
- balance crank shaft?
- piston rings and/or pistons?

I don't have a ton of money to spend but want to make it reliable and do a good job so I have a runner for quite a while. I don't want to get it all together and have to pull it apart again.

Here are my block and head P/N's.

Thanks

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Fatmobile
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Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2002 10:28 pm
Location: north central Iowa

Post by Fatmobile »

I usually open the valves all the way and see how much side-to-side play there is to determine if the guides need replaced.

Either way. the valve seals should be replaced.
Checking for cracks/flatness, especially after an overheat, will determine how much needs doen to the head.

The head bolts are stretch bolts and should be replaced.
Yes, replace the cam seal but other than adjusting the valve clearance a visual inspection of the cam is all that's needed.

I don't think magnafluxing is expensive, I've never had it done to my blocks and have been lucky.
My machinist found one crack in the crank main journal by eye.

Get a rubber oil pan gasket.
Check parts from a '95 2.0 ABA gasser block.

Get the cylinders checked before you decide to hone or bore and get new pistons.

New bearings.

Rods will probebly need some work that wasn't mentioned.
New bushings pressed in and reamed to match piston pins,.. this is usually only done if you need new pistons,.. but see how they feel.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
the vegenator
Turbo Charger
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Location: Bloomington, IN

Re: 1981 Rabbit Motor Rebuild 1.6D NA

Post by the vegenator »

When it comes to determining bearing wear limits and other wear on the block, would be easier to just take the block to the machinist and have him inspect it?

I've seen the specs in the Bentley, but wasn't sure what special tools are used for this.
- Mike Harpring

'85 VW Jetta NA Diesel/WVO
fj40dave
Cetane Booster
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Joined: Sun Oct 30, 2011 5:39 pm
Location: Allyn, WA

Re: 1981 Rabbit Motor Rebuild 1.6D NA

Post by fj40dave »

I'm wrapping up a 1.6 rebuild.....I didn't have to do the crank/rods/pistons, only the head and IP rebuild. Had the flywheel resurfaced and included a new pressure plate and clutch. New water pump, but that's in another freshly started thread!
Doing the GP pimp job while I'm at it!.

here's a photobucket link to pictures along the way.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v326/ ... %20Dasher/
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