Newbie to the Van!

[coke]

Thats really strange. I have never had one slip, and the bit I usually use is well worn. Lots of head gaskets done with it in an auto repair shop.

[WAgrower]

Could it be the bolts were infact turning? I don't have any referance to know if they were. It just felt like the bit was slipping and all of the points are folded over looking like it slipped.

I'm at a loss of what to do. Should I just take it to a shop then? What kind of damage am I doing? I have visions of coolant leeking everywhere and another blown head!

[WAgrower]

If I have in fact torqued the bolts unevenly, what should my next step be? Should I try it again with another bit or will that just compromise the stretch bolts?

I've been reading about guys who pull the head bolts one at a time and replace them with new ones. Then I know it has anti-seize and I can start fresh....

I'm thinking this is the last option I want to try but those things were stuck pretty good and I broke a decent bit trying to torque them....

Thanks for the help so far guys!!

[coke]

The gaskets are really a "one torque only" gasket. If you're going to go through the work to pull the bolts, you might as well drop the exhaust and pull the head and replace the gasket again. At least then you can be sure he cleaned the deck and head surface and its done right.

That is what I would do if I was unsure. It only takes an hour or so extra to pull the head compared to pulling one headbolt at a time. This is your car and you are certainly more than welcome to try that approach if you'd like, but all the gaskets I've come in contact with are like, only 28 bucks and one torque only.

[WAgrower]

Well that's what I'm leaning towards; pulling the head, I was just hoping for an easier route. I'm just not sure if I'm able to do it in the Van.

I'll start doing my homework on how to do it but any tips? I'm not in a shop and I don't have the ability to pull the engine so if it can't come out at the 50deg angle I'll just have to swap the bolts...

[coke]

I'm not 100% certain on the van. Never owned one. But, worst case is you have to drop the manifolds completely from the head to remove it, it should come straight off.

[WAgrower]

Thanks coke I'll start looking at how to do it and see if anyone's done it in a van.

[coke]

I'm pretty sure it can be done. I've never heard of anyone removing the engine to do a headgasket, but that doesn't mean its not the proper procedure, either. The vanagon forum doesn't get much use these days, so.

[WAgrower]

Ok so after doing some reading here is what I plan to do. Let me know if I'm missing a step!

1)Drain the coolant at the lowest point- on the Van it looks like the hose coming off the thermostat.
2)Drain oil (even if this isn't necessary I still have an oil change to do so might as well)
3)Remove all ELX connections -label well!
4)Remove hose connections- Including hardlines and fuel return
5)Pull headbolts- any special technique like crack them all then pull out?
6)Remove head- how much fluid can I expect to drain on me/ ground during this step?
7)CLEAN
8)new gasket with gasket dressing
9)Using dowl rods (size?) guide head back onto block
10)anti-sieze bolts and replace to spec
11)hose connections
12)ELX connections
13)Fill fluids
14)check/ set timing
14)START!!!!

Seems pretty easy... Anything I'm missing

[coke]

I set my engine just before TDC to take the head off, that way there is no added strain on the bolts. I don't use head gasket dressing, never have, and never had a leak, either. There should only be 1 electrical connection to disconnect on the head, unless you are talking about the connections on the coolant flanges.

I remove the head bolts in the order of the torque sequence. Just what I do, others may do something different. I also cut the heads off two of them and cut slots in the top of them to use as head gasket guides. I also use Copper anti seize, great stuff. I apply liberally as well. Some people even put some under the washers on the head bolts when they put them back in.

As long as the coolant is drained at the lowest point, you shouldn't get much if any on ground. However, I haven't taken a head off a vanagon mounted diesel either, as it does sit at a different angle. When you put the head back on, you'll want to make sure the camshaft is at TDC, but the engine is not. I turn it from TDC back till the pistons are all equal height. Install the head, line the crankshaft back up at TDC, then do the rest.

If you have a later A2 engine mounted in that, you will have to remove the cam gear and a couple small 10mm bolts on the metal pan attached to the head. If its an earlier block, you shouldn't have this issue. I think I got it all. If you have questions during the removal process, just ask.

[Fatmobile]

I think you'll be fine.

I have tried doing the last 1/4 turn and there was some scary popping.
That's one of the main reasons I like head studs.

SO you actually broke the tool?

Some people don't even do the final retorque and some say not to.
Drive it and see what happens.

If you go to put new ones in, they will probably be popping too.

I have put head studs in one at a time.
On my 1.5, I put a VNT turbo on,.. it had the lame 11mm bolts,
pulled one at a time and put the stud in.
I've boosted it past 30psi without blowing the gasket.

You'll be fine,,.. the stock bolts hit a certain pressure then begin to stretch,.. you are probably in the stretch zone.

[WAgrower]

Yup folded all 12 of the points over. The guy at Napa even gave it a funny look when I showed him. It's a Lisle who I thought was ok. I picked one up from Napa and I've got my fingers crossed they come out of there with little trouble...

Parts should be in tomorrow; last night I pulled the belt covers, marked my timing belt and loosened the pump. I've got the belt still on but the pump is out of the way so I can pull the leaky injector. I figured while I was doing one I might as well do the rest- part afraid and part curious to see what 10k miles on veggie looks like too!

Have to wait till tonight; today is for some -"not van related" honey dos!!

guess I should say this is guide I'm following for rebuilding the injectors:
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option ... &Itemid=28

I'll use the 1k grit on the leaky guy and then an Emmery cloth on the rest; I've done a fair amount of machining so I think this should be an easy one for me.

[WAgrower]

Alright well a good day despite the rain and wind... Thank you Vanagon rear hatch for making a great rain shelter while working on the engine!

So I've got the new gasket and bolts in; they turned like a dream with the copper anti-seize on there!

I pulled the Injectors and installed new nozzles in them. It was too dark and wet when I got home to install them so it will have to wait till the morning. I've got the injector holes well covered and plugged.

I wasn't planning on pop testing them, but now that I have the time, should I take them to a shop and have them tested? Will a shop do that for me?

[coke]

A bosch service center or authorized bosch dealer or anyone who deals with bosch diesel systems should be able to pop then. NA applications are 130 bar. I'm getting you cleaned the top half with some sandpaper or something to smooth it out and shine it up so it'll seal nicely? This will change the opening pressures of them, only slightly though. With new nozzles, yes, if you can you should pop test them.

Not only will or should they adjust the breaking pressures, but if you have a bad new nozzle (unlikely but possible) they can address it then. You check injectors for a couple of reasons; spray pattern, leakage, opening pressure. So yeah, I'd have it done if you can.

Good deal on the antiseize. I love the copper stuff, use it on everything. Have to in Maine due to salt on the roads and it just rusts stuff 90000x quicker. You did the 1/2 turn after the final torque value, right? Its either done as one full 1/2 turn or two 1/4 turns. I prefer 2 1/4 turns as its more evenly displaced. Then after warmup, you do another 1/4 turn, and after 1000 miles you do another 1/4 turn depending on if the gasket is a retorque gasket or not. Some are some aren't. My gasket listed a 1k mile retorque so I did it.

[WAgrower]

Alright I'll call around to see if I can find a shop to do it.

I did the last half turn in 2 moves; couldn't get the room to do it as one.
Didn't do the one after warm-up because the injectors were out.

Thanks