Newbie to the Van!

[WAgrower]

Ok before I loosen anything I have a question.

Looking for the tdc mark on the flywheel.
I see two tabs and between the tabs is a notch. That novh lines up close when cam is set. The ip is about 30deg off.

Am I looking at the right mark? Could it all be that off after swapping the belt?

Thanks.

[coke]

Crank mark should look like <> only on pointing up and down vs sideways. Cam should be lobes 1 - 2(sprocket end) pointing 10 and 2, last two lobes at 4 and 8, slot in the end of the cam should be parallel to the top of the head. Notch on IP sprocket should be lined up with notch on IP bracket.

[WAgrower]

Ok got it all lined up like that. The <> I guess are the tabs I was looking at. Just thought they would be harder to find and I could see the bently pic well enough to know.
About to button it all back up.
Thanks a ton!!

[coke]

Make sure its a <> on its side, seriously. Many people think a "raised portion" of the flywheel is TDC when its in fact, not.. It looks just like I told yo only on its side, and without the gap in between the <>. You will know it when you find it, and it is VERY easy to go past it.

[WAgrower]

Must have been that mark; it did look like a <> notch in the flywheel, I just wasn't expecting the tabs to be beside it.

Got it all put together and turned it by hand at least 3 times (didn't want valves hitting cylinders). Cranked it and she started right up.

Still have a soft metal sound but I think it's the pulley on the crank for the v belt. It has a bit of a wobble when looking at it so I'll pull it and double check the notch and bump are lined up.
Also the coolant level dropped to below the lowest hose in the expansion tank while it was running so I've filed that again. The temp seemed to be rising and holding normally; I'm bringing a thermometer with me next to check the actual temp.

Thanks again for all the help!

[coke]

Did you find the <> mark?

[WAgrower]

I'm pretty sure it's the right mark. Looks like a v shaped notch and the engine is running great!

Just got back from about a 30 min drive. Went like this...

She ran great after the timing alignment; only issue was the metal sound. Turns out to be the cam sprocket and the metal trim rubbing. Flexing it out of the way works fine, I must have bent it out removing the cam cover so many times...

I ran into major over heating issues after about 10 min of driving. It was holding steady at the LED and then spiked to the top in about a min. There must have been air in the system because there was a TON of steam and pressure when the cap on the expansion tank was cracked. Fluid then ran into the tank from the top line and ran into the lower line. When it was empty I filled it and now it seems to have stabilized a little above the LED.

Now the issue is that's the dirtiest coolant I've seen so I'm in for a coolant flush soon. It's not oil, just crud and clouds.

Both coke and Fatmobile thank you! I'd say she's officially running, and now I'm onto catching all the other systems up!

[coke]

Yeah put a new thermostat in it too. Might be a good idea to do the water pump while your at it. Too many times overheating it will pooch the head gasket.

[WAgrower]

Ya the PO said the cap on the old tank was holding too much pressure which lead to the new head and gasket I inherited. The therm is new I believe... I'll check how it looks. My boost gauge, tach and odometer don't seem to be working... Good news is the tack says it's for a diesel and I think I have the w terminal- somethings coming off the alternator into a little plastic housing.
So I'll be pulling the front of the bus apart for the next few days.

[coke]

I've had new thermostats in the box bad... more than once.

[WAgrower]

I've read that a few times... I'll swap it out when I flush the system; also probably put the drain hole some one posted on here (think it was Fatmobile) Question is how soon should I flush the system. I'd like to invest in some other issues but I don't want to fry my water pump...

[WAgrower]

I'm back and with some bad news...

She won't start! After setting the timing she would be hard to start but always fired up. As the days got a little colder she was harder to start and now its in the low 40s and she won't start at all.

I was never able to track down a dial gauge to time the pump, but she was running well after warm up so I figured it was close enough. Could this be the problem? any other ideas? she will sputter occasionally and there is a slight leak on the top of one injector so I know the fuel shut-off solenoid is ok. GPs feel warm when touched so I'm fairly sure they are ok.

When it does sputter and when it was hard to start it did sound like it was only firing on one cylinder...

Thanks all!

[coke]

The injection pump could be leaking and draining itself. Or you could have some burnt out glow plugs due to all the previous testing and starting attempts. I'd check there first. Verify all 4 glowplugs are glowing and the fuel pump is indeed full of fuel.

[WAgrower]

Well I may have screwed it up more then before...

I've got a giant air bubble before the pump and can't seem to clear it. I've got a priming bulb coming from the fuel filter but it still doesn't want to clear the air...

Fuel will flow though the pump fine so I'm not sure what's keeping it from clearing.

I feel like I'm back to where I was a month ago...

[Fatmobile]

Check your glow plugs if it's won't start and sounds like it's not hitting on all cylinders.

Also if it's the glow plugs,
the block heater will usually get it warm enough that the engine doesn't need them too start.