Where should I start to get an unrunning 81 rabbit running?

[fisherspeak]

I recently purchased an 81 4Dr. Rabbit. I don't know the history of the vehicle. the gentleman I had picked it up from stated he couldn't find the time to look into getting it running so he sold it. Odometer shows 192k. The motor is free and turns over. I can't seem to find any missing parts. I have a couple wires to repair from mice. I'm looking for a couple ideas on what to check to get the engine running.
Thanks.

[fisherspeak]

PS. I did go to the Tech FAQ thread and couldn't get the "how to get it started" link to come up. LOL

[82vdub]

Welcome to the forum. You're going to need to (eventually) get a Bentley repair manual. It's the bible of repair for these vehicles.

You're going to need to test for fuel at the injectors, glow plug operation, timing, and compression. I would strongly suggest you replace the fuel filter with a new one before too long. These engines are susceptable to water in the fuel issues, so a good clean dry filter is in order. There's many threads on this forum recently that explain what to do for the above items. You can search and read the posts and learn from there. These are intereferrence engines, so I'd check the condition of the timing belt before you go too far. If it breaks, you mash the pistons and valves together.

[fisherspeak]

I had replaced the fuel filter and made a small fuel tank (Gatorade bottle) which is in the engine compartment. I put new fuel and return lines to it, my theory was doing so would help rule out tank and line issues till I got the engine running. I've been going over checking the timing through the forum, it appears I'll need to buy a fuel pump timing gauge also correct? I'd like to determine the pump is good. Can any one run me through the steps for bleeding air and making sure I'm getting fuel to the injectors, plus anything else I need to look at with the pump?

[zman]

If I understand you right it didnt run before so there is probably a problem with one or several items. Things that effect operation mostly are glow plugs,injectors, compression rings ,head gasket and pump leaks.
As 82vdub said there are quit a few more things to look at before you start it but if you want to be a cowboy you could clean off the banjo bolt at the fuel filter with contact cleaner and a tooth brush(some of the line too), then carefully remove it and wipe it off again with a clean lint free cloth and stick it in a coffee can with clean diesel fuel. Better yet if you can is to have a rubber fuel hose with a small motorcycle fuel filter on the end and stick that into the fuel can with the banjo bolted to the suction side of the fuel pump.
The thing is to be sure the fuel and fuel line is clean if you dont use a filter.
Now you can bypass the glow plug circut by clipping a wire lead from the battery positive to the glow plug copper strip, hold it there for 5 seconds and release and crank it over right away to fire it up.
This is just to check if the motor fires up and runs, it may still need the tank cleaned out , maybe glow plugs , injectors cleaned/replaced. By the way you need power to the little solenoid switch on the pump so check for power there with the key on.
Check the fluids before you run it too.

[82vdub]

You're on the right track by bypassing the fuel system. You know nothing about the fuel delivery system, so remove it from the equation to minimize fuel issues with trying to get it to run.

You should do a compression check. You can simply do a wrench on the crank bolt and if there's substantial resistance that, when released, turns the engine backwards a bit, you've got decent compression. If you use a compression gauge, if the engine has 250+ PSI, it'll probably run and fire (with warm outside temps), but if all cylinders have 100PSI of compression to them, there's probably nothing you're going to do to get it to run. You're starting from scratch here, so you have to eliminate various components and systems from the entire list of items why and engine won't start.

[VWCaddy]

Sounds like this is a diesel? Was not stated explicitly, but sounds like it is.

Make sure you get 12 volts to the fuel shutoff solenoid on the pump.

[fisherspeak]

Yeah it's a diesel, sorry for not stating.

[Quantum-man]

When you've checked the basics, like fuel to injectors, water, belt condition + hand cranking to check for interference; glow plugs, I'd simply tow start.

If it fails to start, then check timing; finally compression.

In my experience even a low compression will start...

[fisherspeak]

Whats the best way to check the injectors? should I loosen the fitting and look for fuel seeping?

[Quantum-man]

Whats the best way to check the injectors? should I loosen the fitting and look for fuel seeping?

That's the easiest way to begin with.

[82vdub]

Yes, that's the correct way. Loosen all 4 injector lines going to the injectors, get in the car, floor it, and crank for 5 seconds or so. Go out and look. They should be wet with fuel coming down the injector.

Note, to properly tighten the injector line, I push down on the injector line, hand screw the nut down, and then with a 17mm wrench, just slightly tighten them up. The secret is to push down on the line to put the end of the line in the injector, instead of letting the nut pull down on the line. If the injector line doesn't properly seat with the injector, you can keep tightening the injector line to try to stop the leak, and the head of the injector line will pop off

If the line leaks from doing my procedure above, then just give it a slight tighten until the fuel stops leaking. If it doesn't, redo the procedure and/or inspect for any foreign debris.

[fisherspeak]

I assume that will also help bleed any air out of the lines.

[82vdub]

Sort of. It'll also allow fuel to run out of the end letting air in.

[zman]

I assume that will also help bleed any air out of the lines.

Once running if you have a rough idle due to a weak cylinder you can find wich one by loosening (one at a time while running) each fitting on top the injector to find which cylinder is weak, the one that makes little or no difference is the cylinder that is weak.