how cold do you let it get before plugging in?

[texcl]

It's getting pretty cold here in ND, 0 degrees tonight. Last night it got down to 10 and in the morning the dasher wouldn't start, it was cranking real slow. Tonight it started right up at 17, so my question is for a VW diesel in good order at what temp should you plug in? Does the fact that my car wouldn't start show that it is in poor condition? After plugging in my car started right up after it warmed. Might need a new battery.

[vwtyp133]

Being here in 'sunny' SoCal, I'm certainly no expert on starting VW diesels in the kind of really cold temps you'll eventually get in ND, but I've generally had no problems starting mine (currently has no plug-in heaters) down to about -5 degrees Fahrenheit. I've just run the slow-glow plugs through a couple of cycles before hitting the starter. Glow plugs do need to be in good shape for winter.

Several veteran contributors here have presented some promising upgraded glow plug wiring schemes that seem to add to the heat output, as well as reliability in starting. Personally, I'll do some of those mods, as well as a block heater, on the new engine when the time comes. Lookin' to get back to more skiing/snowboarding/winter backpacking time in the Sierras & Cascades again.

Found that a Group 65 battery (typically in Ford trucks) works well in the 78-on Dasher diesels. That size was a drop-in on my '79 & '81 sedans, but had to do just a little minor 'persuasion' on the air box lip with a short chunk of 2"x4", shop towel pad, and 3lb hammer on the '80 wagon.(?) No paint loss or body damage, however, and now it fits like a glove! Group 65 batteries seem to offer a lot of punch, while still keeping the height down to clear the Dasher's hood structure.

My VWs also utilize Ford (fenderwell) starter relays to make the actual direct connection from the battery to the starter solenoid; that relieves the oem starter switching circuitry of having to carry any high current loads, and hopefully, should add to their trouble-free longevity. It's kinda like running separate external relays to the headlights in that the shorter/more direct electrical path usually provides more power & is easier on the (frequently somewhat marginal?) factory control elements.

Good wishes to you for winter reliability.

[coke]

If its true the group 65 will fit in a Dasher, Carquest has a reasonable price on group 65 84 month batteries and they have some massive cold cranking power. What weight oil are you running in your car? 15w40? I usually used 15w40 in my Jetta all year around, but I did use 5w40 synthetic last winter. Battery condition is important, as well as glow plugs.

I would say 15F and lower its time to plug it in though if you want to be sure its going to start. I had a weak battery that I never replaced so I would plug it in around 15F to ensure I could get it started. It was my only mode of transportation so I tried to take precautions that ensured it would run for me.

[TylerDurden]

Slow cranking is bad. These rigs need RPMs to start.

A good battery and 5w-30 should be sufficient, so check cables and connections if it still cranks slow.

I think my 85 needs injector work: it stumbles and runs roughly when starting at 30F (starts on first try tho.) . The battery, cables and pimped GPs are all less than a year old.

[texcl]

Running a very old battery scavenged off my tdi beetle probably needs replacing, using 15-40w conventional oil but my mobile 1 5w-40 should be here today, so how many amps should I be looking at the highest Napa says they have is 660. The truck battery you guy are talking about, is it more powerful?

[TylerDurden]

I shoot for 750-800 CCA and as many reserve as will fit in the compartment.

The biggest cables you can find (AWG2, etc.) are worth the $$.

[the man 53]

I run a 1000CA battery with 1/0 cable. I replaced the starter bushing as they will wear especially if the starter is worn. Keeping a good bushing helps it put all the cranking amps to use and spin faster. I think timing, glow plugs, and engine condition are some other big factors. Had a car that wouldn't start with 3 good glow plugs. Had to have 4 for anything below 30F. I usually plug mine in if it is below 30. I have had it start, not being plugged in, at -12F, but it takes about half a century to warm up and I like the heat. Also, when it started at -12F it fired right up first try, but ran real rough. It was bucking hard and sounded like shaking marbles on a piece of china.
Another thing I noticed was sometimes if you drive and park at 11 pm and wake at 5am to fire it up it will start a fuzz easier than if you park it for the weekend and it is stone cold.

I would guess with yours to plug it in around 15 if you want to be sure. That is if you started it at 17 and it fired right up. If it took several tries then probably 20.

[82vdub]

I would typically plug mine in when it would start to dip into the 20's or so overnight. My theory was that that it's probably beneficial to have the engine start up fairly easily then it is to have to crank it for a while, have it caugh and buck when it's cold, or multiple glow plug cycles. I rigged up a timer to an extension cord so the timer would come on about 2 hours before I needed to leave. The car starts much better after only 20 minutes of being plugged in, but this would also allow me to be able to leave a little earlier on some days if needed without the requirement to go adjust the timer.

[TylerDurden]

My theory was that that it's probably beneficial to have the engine start up fairly easily then it is to have to crank it for a while, have it caugh and buck when it's cold, or multiple glow plug cycles.

I agree.

Sometimes tho, the car will not be close enough to an outlet, so proper tuning for unheated start is advised.

IIRC, Hagar always plugged in.

[mtran]

IIRC, Hagar always plugged in.

Yes,but he use w60 or more in summer.

[texcl]

I should buy a new battery, but I'm so cheap I hate to get a new one until the old one completely craps out! I knew it wasn't going to start it was cranking so slow, after a bit on the heater it popped right off. It always pops off pretty quick but runs rough for a few seconds and might have to give it a little throttle. I looked at the 65 series, looks like the high 600's is as high of cca as I can get in this size battery.

[DrAnonymous]

So, on a related note. Can someone explain the proper routing for the power cord to the heater? Mine was originally going up from the back of the motor on the left side and towards the grill. Its currently hanging straight down from the number one cyclinder, so that it wasn't in the way while messing with the engine.

Motorcycle shop manuals usually list cable routing, which ensures mechanical and electrical routing are correct. No such thing in the bentley manual though.

[82vdub]

Ole' 82 has it running to the passenger side, and then there are clips that hold it to the rib running down that side frame rail to the front. Mine hangs out over the grill directly above the passenger side headlight. I don't think there's a magic route, just as long as it's not cut, tangled up in belts, or melted.

[Fatmobile]

There's also supposed to be a a ,.. I don't know what you call them,
"a loop of metal with plastic along the edges" that it slides through.
Bolted to the hole along the back edge of the block, to guide it away from the belts/crank.

[rdezsofi]

0 degree's....brrrrrr. You better have some anti-gel in your fuel, or it's not going to start at all. Assuming you do have some additive in there, I'd connect a timer on your extension cord you run to your block heater, to come on an hour before you head off to work.

My '86 Golf 1.6 NA at 182,000 miles in 2010......coming back from Texas in January....... 7:00 a.m. in New Mexico and 12 degree's at the motel.....no plug in available.......started right up. Smoked a lot of white smoke for 20 seconds, but didn't complain too much.

I'm in Oregon......we just don't get that cold......but I have mine set so the block heater comes on for 30 minutes before I go to work, just because I feel it's better for the engine. (Just Nov-Feb)

I did have it up at Timberline lodge on Mt Hood last winter, which is up at the treeline. It was about 7 degree's and blowing snow in the morning. No block heater plugged in, fired up no problem. It did take about 45 minutes to clear enough snow to back out of the parking space and clear the windows of ice though. The engine never warmed up to 'normal' until after 20 minutes of driving.