Replacing IP head seal in the car.

[lyeinyoureye]

My IP is leaking a fair bit from the head, or whatever the part that the injector lines plug into is called. I'm trying to swap out the seal via the in-car method I've seen mentioned on this and other forums, where I loosen the torx bits holding the head on, cut off the old seal, and then stretch the new seal over the pump head and slide it into place first on the bottom and then on the top by removing and tightening the screw sets in pairs after I slide the seal into place.

My problem is that the head doesn't seem to want to budge. I've loosened all five of the torx bolts, the bolt that holds the cold start bracket on, and even the bolt in the center, and the head won't budge. Do I need to loosen the injector line ports/bolts too, or do I just need to give the head a good thump with a rubber mallet? I'm also wondering which seal I need in my Bosch kit. I'm 99% sure it's the largest circular seal, but the kit seal seems to be light colored while the seals I've seen in pictures are all darker. Does the difference in color mean anything?

PS - Yes, I'm cross forum posting a bit, but be kind, I'm just trying to get info faster since I'd like to have this done tomorrow morning.

[CarlosA]

Rubber mallet works for me, it does have a light press fit and if its dirty around the outside it can be kinda jammed in there. I wasn`t sure if you pulled the injector lines or not, but you should - they will put a lot of pressure against it.

Clean it good before you split it.

[82vdub]

Make sure you have all the bolts holding brackets removed so the IP head will move. It could be just stuck on there from 30 years of being tightened down.

[TylerDurden]

I suggest a ball peen hammer & large drift - a sharp rap is better than a dead/soft blow to fracture a brittle bond, IMO.

[Fatmobile]

It isn't usually that hard to take the head off, I can't imagine what's holding it on.
The new seal is usually green.