Wheel bearings - how long have I got?

[StevenPH]

I've got what seems like the all the symptoms of a bad rear wheel bearing on the drivers side. Clicking at low speeds from that area when device straight or turning right, sound decreases with increase in speed. Its not incredibly loud, i can only hear it with the windows down, but its grown more noticeable in the past 500 miles. Ive changed all other bearings and cv joints, and I was expecting to need to change these ones out at some point.

Here's the catch - I'm in the middle of a 4000 mile road trip. The clicking has been audible for about 1000 miles, and I have about 2000 miles to go.

I have the tools (minus the press) needed to do the replacement, and have the time and space to do it, I just don't like undergoing operations I've never done before so far away from my home base unless I have to, in case something turns out way more involved than I thought it would be.

If I do it - any recommendations for removing the races? I've read a brass punch is ideal.
How about for installing the races without a press? I've replaced front bearings without a press, using large washers and a long bolt - would this require something similar?

Thanks

[82vdub]

If you need to change a rear bearing on the road somewhere, I wouldn't mess with changing the races out. Just change the bearing, grease it up and hit the road again. I think there will be enough uniformity in the bearing assemblies that it won't be a big deal until you get home.

[bscutt]

you might get away with just packing some new grease in there too. If it's not rumbling it's probably not going to go any time soon.

[TylerDurden]

In my experience, wheel bearings don't click - they growl, with pitch and volume increasing with speed. This is because there are a dozen rollers running over a bad spot on the race, or a blem on a single roller.

I would remove all the hubcaps* (if you have them) and see if the issue is still there.

Also check for stones/hardware stuck in the treads.


*
Some "clicks" I have had (other than CV joints) were steel hubcaps that responded to wheel stress exactly in the manner you describe... at the rotational frequency of the wheel, louder on turns in one direction and quieter with increase in speed.

[ctange]

I have the tools (minus the press) needed to do the replacement, and have the time and space to do it, I just don't like undergoing operations I've never done before so far away from my home base unless I have to, in case something turns out way more involved than I thought it would be.

A press is not needed, just at cylinder of soft iron and a hammer, to drive the old out, and the new in.

[Fatmobile]

I have a set of old races ground down on the outside so they don't stick in the bore along with the new race as I hammer them in.
Just something to contact the whole race surface as I drive them in.

I too don't believe clicking is a sign of a bad bearing.
Wheel hitting the ebrake cable?

Lifting the rear off the ground and checking for play is the way to find out if it's a wheel bearing.
While it's off the ground; spinning it might help you find the sound.