1.6 diesel Dasher rebuild questions

[82vdub]

So this is a fresh rebuild, right? Did you use a wrench on the crank to turn the engine over by hand when you were assembling it? If so, was it easy to turn at one point, and then really, really hard to turn at another point?

If it rotates easily by a wrench on the crank (now with the injectors out), there's probably not a clearance issue with the crank or something.

Did you install the large ground strap from the transmission to the chassis? If that's missing, your missing a critical component of the electrical system.

[whisker]

Yes this is a fresh rebuild. I've turned it over by hand throughout the process and it was all quite even. There is a smaller gauge wire connecting the transmission ground cable to the chasis. That connects up by the glow plug fuse link on the battery holder, right? Or am I missing another one.

Also, there is only 2 cables to connect to the starter right?

[bscutt]

check for green corrosion down inside the cables if you can see anything where the insulation ends. I also try to hook up a good jumper cable from the negative cable directly to the block like at the lifting loop just to help out the ground side of the circuit. Try cranking for a few seconds then go feel the cables and cable ends to see if you have a particularly hot spot. It's possible a cable corroded while sitting during the rebuild and also possible the new engine is just a little to tight to crank easily - that could be the starter, the cables, or the battery just not being up to snuff. If you were able to turn the engine over by hand with a wrench or ratchet without excessive effort then there could be some problem getting enough power to the starter motor or the starter is just weak.

[82vdub]

I know on the Rabbit and Jetta's, there's a large ground cable going from the transmission mount to the chassis on the drivers side. Don't know where it would be on a Dasher though, but the cable will be a large cable, not a small wire. That's likely a good portion of your problem.

[whisker]

Well I replaced the connecter to the solednoid on the starter since it was a bit janky. That didn't help- I tried using a jumper from the negative battery terminal to the lifting eye on the head- that didn't help... It's turning really slow- like one piston reaching tdc every 2 or 3 seconds.

The box on the starter says the starter bushing inside the trans may need replacing... anyone ever have that problem?

I'm out of ideas, other than pulling the new starter and having it tested- which requires removing motor mounts which is annoying- Id rather avoid that.

[82vdub]

The box on the starter says the starter bushing inside the trans may need replacing... anyone ever have that problem?

I lube the bushing up when I install a starter, and replace the bushing nearly every time. It is a pain to do the starter when it's integral to the mounting means.

[whisker]

Pulled the new starter out and put in the old one. It cranks faster now. Just gotta charge up the battery.

[82vdub]

There's a couple different versions of starters out there with different KW ratings. The higher KW rated starters should provide more cranking power. Maybe you got one of the low KW starters.

[whisker]

hmm... well trying to get the fuel lines primed is turning out to be a pain... Using a pump that came as a spare with this car so I don't know how well it'll work. Seems to suck fuel some of the time...

[whisker]

With the injector lines cracked at the injectors, fuel only comes out on cylinders 2 and 4. Cranked it a lot... Possible pump defective? I can't get fuel to come out the "out" banjo fitting.

[TylerDurden]

With the injector lines cracked at the injectors, fuel only comes out on cylinders 2 and 4. Cranked it a lot... Possible pump defective? I can't get fuel to come out the "out" banjo fitting.

I'd bottle-feed the IP... literally run two clear tubes to IN/OUT from a bottle hanging higher than the IP.

Use a mighty-vac or similar connected to the tube on the OUT bolt to pull fuel into the IP. Crank and expect some stumbling and smoke while the IP purges air. Once the OUT tube runs without bubbles, the engine should run smooth .Check that fuel circulates back into the bottle when cranking and running.

[Quantum-man]

See my recent thread. Your problem lies with the lift pump vanes sticking. Strip down and get the pump's vanes to stick to the walls with surface tension. 3hrs work total

[whisker]

I put in my other pump and it has been working great!

I had the front jacked up today to repair an exhaust leak and while idling, the front wheel was spinning...

some sort of clutch adjustment issue? Where do i put the wrench?

Searched the forum and found this:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11825&p=83379&hilit ... ral#p83379

I guess it's normal for some spin.

[bscutt]

That's not too unusual in my experience. There is some friction in that path that will allow some transmission spinning if there's no load. If you put your hand on the wheel and it stops easily I'd leave it alone. If you can't stop it with very little force you may need to tighten up a little on the clutch cable. I don't recall how accessible that is on the Dasher with that in line configuration. Hopefully someone else does.

[Quantum-man]

Clutch cable is adjustable down by the lever on the side of the gearbox. Take up the slack by pulling on the lever with your hand. Adjust the locking nuts. Never had to remove a bush for the starter in 20+ years of Quantum driving.