During some recent work on repairing my car, I produced this soundtrack. Strange as it sounds, it is something we should all aspire to and is a good sound.
Before I reveal what it is, and it becomes part of a sticky, anyone care to play my game and guess what it is?
Hopefully the sound is clear. For some strange reason host sites don't allow soundtracks [anymore] so I've had to video the soundtrack, and use Megabytes rather than Kilobytes
"I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD )
Not a horse, not someone's tongue
It is inconveniently deep inside part of the car, and not seen by many...
I'll reveal all tomorrow
...
"I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD )
My first thought was that it was timing belt related, because the frequency isn't fast enough for a crankshaft, camshaft, valvetrain or piston issue. However, there's two distinct knocks, close to each other, that have a longer time frame between them. I can't fathom what would be associated with the timing belt that would produce such a noise. Now coupled with your comments that few have been to that area of the car, I'm going to some noise in the final drive area of the transmission. It's probably far off, but it's the only guess I've come up that could be reasonable - given the criteria.
Everybody else lists their cars here - but not me.
This is actually a good sound.
If you get this after [strictly speaking during ] a rebuild; then it's a thumbs up!
"I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD )
well im in suspense at to the 'good sound' cannt wait for you to build up more info to what it is; you rotating engine back and forth??
almost seems ive heard that kind of sound; i cannt place it right now,
shift lever being 'actuated' before you 1st start up? like the last thing your doing, make sure it shifts into gears? after work
OK time's up!
But first I'd like to raise a glass of cider to the 30th birthday of my engine, born on 7/11/1984. All thanks to, [or despite] the Plastic Bottle Hone job.
Back in May, the engine developed the 'no restart when hot, until stone cold' disease:
Up to 3 hours before a restart at it's worst. Engine rebuild, and abandonment of my experimental twin jet injectors, gave but temporary fixes.
That was when I began to swap pumps. The issue changed, but I was swapping out a 29 1/2 year old pump for a 28 1/2 year old pump that was on a car in the garden that had been stood for 10 years, and a 26 year old pump that had been stood in an open box on a shelf in my shed, again for 10 years.
Both pumps started my car, but neither would lift much fuel from the tank, and the one from the shed ignored my foot on the accelerator and just ran at 2000rpm
This latter pump gave me the answer to the problem with my original pump, (although I didn't realize it at the time); because when I stripped this one down, I found that the govenor sleeve had seized onto the govenor weights spindle, preventing movement of the govenor lever, and the lever itself was sticking, and not retracting.
Later inspection of my original pump showed rub marks on the weights spindle, that it seems were only being created when sleeve was hot, ie after a journey. This sticking was preventing the 'over maximum' diesel fueling used in start-up
Meanwhile I stripped down my pumps, a little to start with, and deeper as my mini services were failing to create a perfect pump.
Both 'new' pumps were working near perfectly, save for the mere dribble out to the fuel return, and not able to drive the car.
I stripped the 'new' pumps right down to the vane lift pump, and discovered that the vanes were stuck in.
Removing, cleaning freeing and reassembling brought an improvement but not the gushing of my original pump.
Dismantling my original pump, I noticed that after pulling the main shaft out, I could slide the vane carrier from side to side,in the offset stator as in my two rebuilds, but instead of having to spin the rotor to get an appearance of vane extension, the vanes actually stick by surface tension to the stator, perimeter.
Shuffling the rotor leaves the vanes stuck to the wall. In other words the 'centrifugal' pump actually pumps from stationary to cranking speed. Repeating theother pump's rebuild, I managed to free the accurately fitted vanes, so that they too were held by surface tension to the outer stator. The shed pump is what I drive now.
OK the sound is the glug glug of the vane pump when spun with the fingers. No internals other than the pulley drive shaft and woodruff key, and enough diesel to fill the vacuum side of the advance piston, and some in the pumps inlet.
When the pump is good, the sound appears and is the sucking and spitting out of the diesel out of the top of the vane pump's wall plate.
When good, it will lift the diesel out of a beaker well below the pump merely spun with the fingers.
The usefulness of this test, is that many pumps laid idle for sometime have stuck, or sticky vane pumps.
This technique saves rebuild failures, like what I experienced
"I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD )
Wow, a neat test at the right time during a pump rebuild/reseal. Thats good to know when your in there, even better after its all put together!
The vanes are such a precise fit, I dread taking them out and putting them back in. I hear they're supposed to stay in their exact positions. I know there is a "tool" to take everything out in one piece; I just use long-nose pliers and take everything out in pieces. I put the outer ring back in upside down once, it pumped fuel backwards.
sgnimj96 wrote:Wow, a neat test at the right time during a pump rebuild/reseal. Thats good to know when your in there, even better after its all put together!
The vanes are such a precise fit, I dread taking them out and putting them back in. I hear they're supposed to stay in their exact positions. I know there is a "tool" to take everything out in one piece; I just use long-nose pliers and take everything out in pieces. I put the outer ring back in upside down once, it pumped fuel backwards.
I'd tend to agree about the not mixing the vanes about, however, part of my skill base is to drop the lot onto the floor, and have all but one vane drop out
At least with this test, one can assemble immerse with a little diesel and do a spin check, pull out the shaft and shunt the rotor side to side to see if any are not sticking to the outer ring.
Initially pushing the vanes outwards to allow diesel to fill behind. Only one vane gave problems and rotating it in it's radial axis cured this
"I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"
Be like meeee...Drive a Quantum TD
...The best work-horse after the cart...
Quantae grow on you...but Rabbits are like roses...
... girls like em ;o)
Only one Darwin, Einstein, Poe and Verne.
That is why if you listen, you will learn:
From the one and only Quantum-man,
Who sees the worms from outside of the can.
7 Quantae in 20 years; 4 dead and 3 TD's still alive [2 wagons & 1 fastback] oh and a GTD )
As I was reassembling a 107a pump, I used this to check that the vanes were pumping in the correct direction (and not in reverse). The outer ring for the vanes on this pump looked the same either way, which had me worried. I knew the vanes were good, but I did not want to wait to bench test the pump to find out if the outer ring was backwards (again!).
While rotating the shaft I could see the fuel moving properly down in the inlet hole so I knew I was good to continue with the reassembly.
Also (after watching a youtube vid) I see an easy way to remove and install the vane assembly is WITH the shaft. Remove the 2 screws that secure the vane pump assembly, then reinstall the driveshaft. Hold the pump vertical while supporting the driveshaft (so it doesn't fall out), and slowly lower the shaft and vane assembly out of the pump. Reinstall the same way, so much easier than trying to do it piece by piece.
)
] a rebuild; then it's a thumbs up!
OK the sound is the glug glug of the vane pump when spun with the fingers. No internals other than the pulley drive shaft and woodruff key, and enough diesel to fill the vacuum side of the advance piston, and some in the pumps inlet. 