Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Any advice out there?
I rebuilt an injection pump off a simple 1.6 NA engine. I followed a video that I have very closely and am pretty confident I got everything back in place with all new seals.
So, when the engine is cranking, I'm getting fuel to the far right (installed in car) injector, but not the other three. I replaced all the delivery valves as well as the vane pump. Rotor stayed the same. Maybe the delivery valves are bad? Not much to them. They just slide back and forth.
Errrrr.......

I'd try swapping the known good delivery valve with another position i.e. #4 works, swap with #3 and see if the issue stays or follows.

Why didn't i think of that? Thanks for the idea Tyler Durden!

How long did you crank?
Foot to the floor?

Thats why, for verification, I test on the bench before installing. I make a fuel supply and spin it with a variable drill.
Clip on a 12V DC power supply to the fuel shutoff and It will spit fuel out of the delivery valves.

Thanks everyone! It's my first pump rebuild. I replaced the vane pump and all the delivery valves. The distributive head is original and so is the cam plate. I'll try to bench test it. How do you spin it though with a drill? I can't find a way to connect it to a 19mm socket. I tried my electric impact wrench, but that wouldn't spin it.
Fatmobile, i cranked maybe 10 or so rotations at the most at a time untill the battery is dead.

There are adapters http://www.harborfreight.com/hex-drill- ... 68513.html

I use a 1/2" variable speed drill because slow is better. It takes some power to get started but then it tends to spin faster than needed.

To make it even more simple to do I welded some rebar to an appropriate size metric nut and made a crank handle. Kinda like this guy did, but his is better- handle is on the sprocket itself https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIqTXoME54I

Gotta have a battery charger when cranking it on the car. Slow cranking doesn't work well for getting it to run. Save your battery and starter, Electric fuel pumps are the best for priming http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UNIVERSAL-E ... 94&vxp=mtr
I'm a cheapskate

So I just ended up putting a known working pump on and it is pumping fuel just fine. However, I cannot get the car started. I'm getting some burnt exhaust, but it just won't fire and keep running. I'm sure there's a timing thread on here somewhere, but shouldn't it just be as simple as locking the cam and setting the block at TDC? And then putting the timing belt on with the pump pulley mark lined up with the plate? If I'm getting burnt fuel out of the exhaust then I think I'm getting closer. I also don't have a metric dial gauge to set the timing.

Timing needs to be very precise. You can try very gradual adjustment, but we're talking fractions of degrees.

The tools are reasonably cheap, and an imperial dial can be used with simple english-metric conversion.

Usually, if you are getting whitish smoke from the tailpipe, your timing is off. Pump could be out 180 degrees, or the pump just plane out retarded. I would advance the timing by rotating the pump towards the engine and see what happens. It only takes a few degrees out and they are buggers to start. I would also plug in the block heater if the car has one, as a hot engine is much easier to start than a cold one. Let it heat for a couple hours and try it. You may have to slip the timing belt a tooth to advance the timing enough. Depends on where it all pans out. There's more than just setting the parts to their various marks and calling that good. Sometimes they run and sometimes they don't. Those marks are all base timing indicators, with actual timing done by the dial gauge, or by ear.

if you have cam tool and pump lock it should start like that; id say glow plugs is next to start; getting pump right on is much better, for many reasons. but it definitely should start, run a jumper to glow plugs, and try,,if that works you have to troubleshoot gps, if not you still may need New gps.

This engine is a recent rebuild I did. It has new glow plugs, so i'll bet that the pump timing is off. 82vdub, if the pump is possibly off 180 degrees, would I just rotate the pump pulley 180? That throws off the timing marks then.

i figure the best thing first is to see exactly where you timing is at now; put it to tdc, check pump is at tdc, and then the cam will either be at #1tdc, or #4. thats if the pump has 1 hole for pin, if it has 2, well you ll have to do more to figure it out.

Yea, I'd check base timing again and see if the timing marks line up as air cooled mentioned. If your pump sprocket only has one hole in it, then it's not on backwards, but the cam could be if #1 lobes aren't pointing up. If the sprocket has two holes in it, then it could be 180 out, but if the timing mark lines up on the bracket, then it should be ok.

I have the cam locked with #1 lobes up and the block is at tdc. The pump sprocket has two holes, but only one timing notch. That is what i'm lining up with the mark on the pump bracket. I'm going to give it another go once the battery has charged back up.