Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Vincent Waldon wrote:Another angle on pimping the glow plugs:

http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option ... &Itemid=28

Very neat setup.

I would differ in cutting the ring connectors, at least for #1 and #2 glowplug; because you cannot use the wire supply to lift out or insert those plugs, whilst leaving the high pressure lines undisturbed, but I can

Eventhough it isn't always done, I have started to fuse any constant power coming off the battery. For instance in the setup above I put a fuse in between the battery and the seliniod. I used to not especially on big ga. wire until the one day some mouse must have nibbled on the wire going to my tach on my ford bronco and it caught fire. The engine bay was in flames, so now I fuse most everything. I don't on the starter circuit, but most everything else that comes off the terminal gets it.

I also leave all of my gp terminals ringed. With the turbo pump it is almost impossible to get to #1 and #2.

all I need to do to ground out the solenoid is bolt it to the sidewall correct?

That should be sufficient grounding.

Some solenoids are grounded to the solenoid's frame automatically and so will ground if you bolt them to the ground... others need to be grounded deliberately with a separate wire.

To me, the one in your picture looks like it needs a separate wire i.e. two terminals are supplied for the coil.

Vince, I don't believe your correct. I believe that when there's two terminals on a solenoid, one is labeled "S" and the other is labeled "I". The "S" lug connects to the ignition switch that pulls in the solenoid, and the "I" lug connects to certain ignition circuits on cars that need the ignition energized when the starter solenoid is engaged. I believe my old Chevy's only had one wire going to the solenoid (even though it was on the starter body) and my old Fords had two wires connecting to the solenoid So, none of the lug connections on the body of the solenoid should be used for a ground connection.

Could be... often hard to know exactly without the thing in one's hot little hands. And yup, most of the automotive solenoids I've run into ground thru the solenoid body... less wires, less to go wrong, right!?

Having said that, I can also tell you, respectfully, that if that's a picture of the garden tractor solenoid from NAPA that's mentioned in pimp-your-glowplugs HOW-TO it needs its own ground wire.

the solenoid is for a ford e-350. couple self tappers should the trick eh??

Yes the Ford solenoids ground through the solenoid body. Clean surface and self tapping screws should work fine

Well....did the glow plug modification to the '80 Dasher 1.6 na motor I'm freshening up for a friend.

Not everything is connected or clamped or ready to run yet (just positioned for reference at this point).

Huge shout out to Vince Waldon for the instructions! THANKS VINCE!!!




http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v326/ ... 1QQtppZZ16

Very tidy wiring... and of course I love the liberal use of heat-shrink tubing throughout.

I see a curly wire going to ground on the solenoid.
Do you need that?
I used one of these solenoids for my last project and it only had one stud for connection.
I don't think the other one is for ground.
I think it could be for powering something like a coil while the starter is running.

If you look up in this thread about 5 posts you'll see some additional discussion on this.

Bottom line: many starter solenoids do in fact ground thru their chassis and don't need an additional ground wire, but other's require their own ground, including AFAIK the garden tractor solenoid pictured.

I used Vince's picture/instructions for reference and saw that the ground wire was off the post I'm using.
Thought is: If it worked for him, it should work for me.
There is a lot of other things that can go wrong with the 1.6na build I'm doing, hope this modification isn't one of them!