FineFrank wrote:Andrew,
What part am I looking at? I'm no noob, but I cant figure it out.
Frank
Well, some of the non-turbo pumps came with that pedestal for the out banjo. Some didn't. I can't see how the pedestal serves any purpose whatsoever other than being a useful adapter to drill and tap for a pressure gauge. Time to go to the local junkyard and take a peek at all the diesels...
" Fatso " ? --did I dare ? to name a Rabbit Fatso ? --my dear wife Louanne was FAT --and all mention of FAT was taboo here---no matter how many times I told her that it did NOT bother me ---how much fat on her butt --I worried only about the fat between her ears --not her rears.
Women are sure sensitive--EH ?. -----SO ? tell your FAT Mother, Sister , Girlfriend, Wife ,Daughter that no matter what ---you LOVE them.
Read my lips I NEVER mentioned slimming down or Diet to Louanne---NEVER. ----funny thing her mother Lucy Barmore is like Twiggy ---skinny as anything.
PS : I would have liked to drive Fraulein Bonny Bondo on liposuction fat---just for FUN.
Hager said "---If we recirculate fuel in pump without return to tank or filter --the heat will destroy pump. "
I have adapted my '86 Jetta Diesel Turbo to run on pre-heated vegetable oil. The minimum temp is 170* F and I've seen it at 212* F. Is that really bad for the IP? What kind of damage can that temp do?
Also, I have the fuel return looped back to the fuel feed line to help heat the incoming fuel. Is that gonna mess up my internal pressure?
hagar wrote:PS : I would use Parowax or AV oil first.
I am no expert on injection pumps, but it seems to me that Hagar's P.S. above is very sound advice. Intuitively -- at least to me -- it makes a lot more sense to try to thicken the new ULSD fuel with Parowax (which will not gel down to 0 degrees f) or any other member of the "white oil" family of oils in order the bring the pressure inside the pump back to what it was before the new thinner diesel fuel oils were put on the market, than to mechanically alter the internal pressure by fiddling around with the pump itself. I personally have had great success with the former approach.
Adjusting fuel to the pump or adjusting the pump to work with the fuel.
Either way we need something to measure with so i went to a machinist and had him make me one for $25 (without the 1/8" NPT hole in the side).
The small piece on the bottom is what I got from the dealership, it was so short I couldn't drill a hole lower than the bolt would go.
I might figure a way to use it, maybe get one of my friends to tig a port to the side.
I don't intend to use the barbed fitting because I don't trust it at 150 psi.
I'm thinking of running a greasegun hose to the gauge.
Flow rate is a factor of both pressure and orifice size. If the orifice is faulty the flow test is irrelevant. The pressure test, on the other hand, is still effective IMO as it is what controls the dynamic timing advance.
Hey guys, I just checked my internal IP pressure and it stinks! I pulled the restricted "out" bolt and replaced it with a standard banjo bolt with the big holes. I installed a brass in-line needle valve after a pressure guage I Tee'd into the line. At 1000 rpm it's only about 15 psi. When I close down the needle valve the most I can get is about 30 psi. The IP does have a leak or two but it drips... not squirts, so I don't know if that would cause the poor internal pressure. Any of you IP gurus have an idea on what the problem is? Thanx!
You swapped the "OUT" bolt for a standard banjo bolt... did you change the banjo or are you still using the 2 port banjo... with the small injector line connected. If you didn't and the little injector lines are still hooked up and the pressure gets high, they will pop off and spray fuel everywhere.
...Or maybe they will just leak and relieve pressure at 30psi.
'91 Golf gasser converted to a 12mm pump, M-TDI.
'84 1.6TD Rabbit with a VNT-15 turbo, still setup to run on vegetable oil.
'84 GTI with 1.7TD pistons and intercooled.
2003 TDI wagon
2000 TDI Jetta.
Friend ---- hagar knows your problem --read my lips. --you did NOT read all of Andrew in Flagstaff postings. --and read Mark Shepherd UK. while you are reading. HE said many times LOUD AND CLEAR ---if you ask questions on the forums ---give details --like where you are and the type of VW---plus history of the car.
Okay, what Fatmobile is saying is quite correct. If you placed a regular "out" bolt along with a needle valve and would like to use that as a long term setup (you're a pioneer AFAIK) then you would need to tee the injector return lines AFTER the needle valve as the push on hose connections are not intended to resist correct internal pressure.
I think you might have one of two potential difficulties or both at the same time. You vane pump could be done and unable to deliver adequate fuel to get your internal pressure to develop properly or the pressure control valve is out of adjustment or both.
libbybapa wrote:Right here:
It is a simple plunger spring assembly. Under pressure the plunger moves up and opens the passages on the side and routes fuel from after the vane pump back to the pump inlet. The indented center of the top of the regulator is a metal plug that can be tapped down slightly to increase internal pressure. To lower the pressure, the regulator can be removes, placed inverted in a vice and tapping on the bottom of the plunger should push the plug the other way.
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