Former VWDieselParts.com Forum

Hello!

I tried to read this thread all over, but could not find solve for my problem.

My setup is this:
T3 Caravelle -89.
Originally was 1,6TD (JX engine), currently holds 1,9TD (AAZ or 1Y) with external parts from JX (pump, etc.). Turbo replaced to KKK K24 with small air-to-air intercooler.
Engine was running great, maybe when warm enough (after 100 km of constant driving) I could feel some loss of power when driving up-hills or accelerating.

The problem is this:
Pump was leaking from distributors head O-ring, so I fully disassembled the pump and replaced all gaskets and O-rings.
Also I upgraded to 12 mm distributor head.

After installation and some serious bleeding and adjusting of pump I finally got engine to idle normally.

But when I give it some throttle, first it makes little buff of black smoke (as normal), but then comes white diesel smoke and RPM won't rise as normal.
When holding throttle fully open, it still won't rise RPM very much and it smokes white diesel smoke and runs rough.
When letting go from throttle, it runs few second under normal idle RPM and kinda thinks should it die or idle..

SEE VIDEO

What I have done so far to solve problem:
I have tried different timings from range of 0,65 mm - 1,15 mm.
Timing does not help for the problem, but at idle timing effects normally.
Currently timing is set to 0,90 and engine starts right away when cold start lever is pulled.

I have also checked all possible air leakings from pump, adding pressurised air to pump inlet and blocking output from filter end. Resulting of leak test, I replaced return hoses between nozzles and couple O-ring on pump (apparently wrong sized at first time). Also installed hand-pump between filter and pump inlet to help bleeding of pump.

Last I did was I installed electrical oil pressure gauge to top cover of pump. SEE INSTALLATION PICTURE

No internal pressure is showing at idle or when trying to get RPMs high.
I have a plug on one end of T-part and when I opened it a little while engine running, no diesel comes out.
I tried the same engine stopped with hand-pump and diesel was tripping out.

What I think the problem is:
Feed pump is stuck somehow not giving enough pressure, causing dynamic timing not to be adjusted when RPMs rise and causing retarted timing and white diesel smoke.

But can engine even run idle if there is zero pressure or is my gauge showing none-sense?

When I open nuts from nozzle ends I can see diesel squirting high in the air (about 0,3-0,5 meters) when cranking the engine so I think new distributors head works fine.
Nozzles are serviced and adjusted by authorized service company about 3000 km ago so nozzles should work fine too.


Does anyone have any good ideas is my conclusion right about the problem, or might there be a different reason for the problem?

Thanks in advance!

I'm going to open my pump this weekend anyway so I'll post what I found out.

Still appriciate any help from here

Do you have clear fuel lines?
Did you put the "OUT" bolt on the input?

Not familiar with what pump you are using,.. it could be the pressure regulator.

White smoke is commonly a sign of air in the fuel.
I suppose it is somewhat on topic but it sounds like you need to start your own thread.

Currently I have only return line to tank clear pipe. No air on that one when idle.

Nope, can't mix in- and output bolts because output has two lines; return from injectors and return to tank.

I re-assembled the pump, tomorrow I will run the engine and see does it work. Timing piston did feel little stiff when I was de-assembling the pump, now it runs smooth.
I did not have any internal pressure when I measured it, with two different gauges.
I think that was the reason I could not rev engine up and causing white smoke because pump pressure could not adjust timing earlier while RPM rises.

Now I tested pump with a hand drill diesel can attached to inlet, it suck diesel very well and throw it far from open outlet.
But tomorrow I'll inform how it runs.

First time assembling the pump I replaced the fuel feed assembly with brand new set, I think that was not currant set. Now I put old one back and it seems to work all right (with hand drill).

Got it running and pressure is now OK.

After first assembly I think problem was that both supply feed pump was faulty and timing piston was stuck = no pressure = no timing adjustment = no high revs.

Second time I assembled the pump, I over tightened one of the connector lever bolt resulting aluminium scrap inside the pump and jammed the piston of distributors head = no feed to injectors.

Third time I fully cleaned pump of aluminium scrap and = Suckess!!

Now it runs smooth after bleeding air out, now needs just normal adjustments

I glued control lever bolts with epoxy (outside of the pump of course) to stop them bleeding fuel and replaced all return lines from injectors and now it is better than new

Installed bleed vent also for turbo, tomorrow I can fine-adjust whole thing and hope that's it!

I set timing as earl I could (about 1,15 mm) and now it sound very early when cold but when it warms up, it smooths. Maybe I retard it a bit to 1,10mm or not.. Starts right away when I show key to it with out cold start lever

Mandula wrote: Nope, can't mix in- and output bolts because output has two lines; return from injectors and return to tank.

The bolts and the banjos are seperate.
The banjo bolts don't have barbs.
People have put the OUT bolt on the input.

Quantum-man I do like to keep the stickys short, on topic and to the point. This is more about troubleshooting and doesn't add much to the topic at hand.
Since he got it running in short order and it does have some internal pump pressure info I'll let these few posts stay.
But future posts on troubleshooting should post in non sticky threads and add any relevant info to the sticky after problem is fixed.

I got white smoke when I timed My Fuel Injection Pump too late. White Smoke = unburned atomized Diesel Fuel.

When you replace a Pump Head there is an adjustment that needs to be made with a shim/Button.

Can I use this pdf for the specs on getting the right thickness shim? (still not exactly sure how to do it, but this pdf is the best info I've found)
http://www.waghornswood.net.nz/Manuals_ ... index.html
BTW, it also has specs for internal pump pressure

On a recent trip to mexico I dropped off an IP to a Diesel Injection shop to have it inspected, rebuilt and calibrated. This guy has been in the business for decades, rebuilding and calibrating pumps. I talked to him about internal pressure on the VE pump and how I modified an out bolt to screw a gauge into and set pressure.

Then he showed my his adapter, which seems more practical (and replaceable); He tapped a threaded hole into the side of an old FUEL SOLENOID (plunger and spring removed) and uses that for screwing a gauge into!

sgnimj96 wrote: He tapped a threaded hole into the side of an old FUEL SOLENOID (plunger and spring removed) and uses that for screwing a gauge into!

How to stop the motor then?...

on a running motor, it would have to be stopped by the clutch. On an automatic, the fuel pump should have a shutoff lever.

Of course, the diesel injection tech is usually running pumps on bench test machines so it's not an issue.
For the home mechanic who wants to test internal fuel pressure it's a good alternative because extra "out" bolts are not as easy to come by as fuel solenoids (for drilling and tapping).

So I've read through this entire thread and it is fascinating!

I haven't managed to find the manual for my pump but I did make some calls and find the following information.

Pump Part Number : 0 460 484 046
VW Part Number : 028 130 107 Q

Internal Pump Pressures (from bosch)

750 rpm - 3.5 - 4.3 bar = 51 - 62 psi
1250 rpm - 4.9 - 5.7 bar = 71 - 83 psi
2200 rpm - 7.6 - 8.4 bar = 110 - 121 psi

I have already adjusted mine a bit ( to the pressures on the first page) but it does not sound right. Seems too far advanced. No matter though. I'll re-do it and re-time it at the same time.

My engine is a 1.9 1Y diesel with great compression, brand new injectors and the whole thing plopped into a 1980 4 door Rabbit. I'll post a couple of pictures of my setup this afternoon.

Increasing the injection pump internal pressure will change where the static injection pump timing starts.
You should adjust the static timing after changing the internal pump pressure.
Thanks for adding the info.